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G 9000 Veneer- Which looks best?

Here is a suggestion for you. Do the first case, 8080 with the Mahogany. Easier to work with and good to learn on.
Do the second with the Burl Walnut for her and only after you get the technique understood a bit better.
You probably have most of the tools you will need depending on your glue choice. Roller for the contact type glues and clamps for the tite bond.
X-acto knives and a sheet rock knife with lots of new blades and a good metal straight edge. I also use a flat sanding block with 220 paper.
Look in the DIY section for a thread by Merrylander about this. He is the resident wizzard and has been very helpful to me with PMs.

I am doing another case right now with the Burl Walnut and I picked a very nice piece and have it centered as to the burl grain. It should come out sweet and I will stain this one a dark walnut.
The other two will get Mahogany.

Have fun.
Gary
 
Oustanding job on both cases! I have done a few cases on both walnut and red oak with very good results. One of these days when I win the lottery, I'll do some in birdseye maple or brazillian rosewood. Walnut is available at a shop in Austin, Tx for under $30 for a 2'x8' sheet. White oak is about the same price. Red oak is somewhat less, however rosewood is around $85 and birdseye maple is close to $100 for 2'x8' sheet.
 
Yep, it does get pricy quick! There are some on line resources and Ebay seller who have nice stuff at reasonable prices but very little in the 16" widths.

I suspect the oaks will be very brittle like the walnut and very hard to work with as well.
Those of us who know wood will not be upset with some grain splits in the process. I'm not but with the walnut, when you clamp it down I am getting some minor splits along the grain because the stuff is not flat to begin with.
The learning just goes on and on!

Gary
 
Thanks for the glue info. The red does give it that sexiness. I saw some Heresys stained a deep red and laquered. Talk about hot!
 
gamalot said:
I am kind of partial myself and I love the way the mahogany changes depending on the angle and light.
I will say the Mahogany is softer and much easier to work with.

I tried the walnut simply because it is pretty and lots of vintage gear was covered with it.

3-0 in favor of Mahogany so far.

Thanks.

Gary
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Your skills continue to amaze me! The covers look marvelous. The mahogany is delicious looking. Though, I am partial to the darker woods like Rosewood and ebony.

You now have the start of a cottage business for those of us which would like to put a New face on our "old Classics". I want to be the first one line at Gamelots' bakery!

Great work Glen! :banana:
 
gary.......let ME climb out on a limb here..IMHO these gorgeous siver face lovelies can look incredible with lighter veneers also... I'm a finish carpenter and WILL build new cases but they take sooooooooo much time that I end up spreading it out waaaaaaaay too long. I can't just stay at it all at once....need several breathers....so VENEERING is a big time saver......getting off the point here about LIGHTER veneers......I'm gonna do an 8080 box this week that's really had it cosmetically, in oak veneer and just finish it with rag-rubbed clear satin water-based poly....about 5 coats and rubbed between........ then I'm gonna do one in maple same way for a "G"...... I saw a marantz recently and it was GORGEOUS..... not traditional perhaps, but pretty none the less..... I'll post pics when I get one done.....hopefully next weekend........now let's hear some opinions out there guys ( and gals too )....zosoisme
 
SansuiSamRI said:
Gary,
I was in a Woodcraft store a couple months ago and they had rolls of veneer. I can't remember the exact measurements but I think it was like 24" by 25'. It was the widest veneer I've seen. The roll was in the range of $100 to $120. I checked their website but they don't seem to have it in stock. They had it in like seven different domestic woods. If they had it in cocobola I would have bought it.
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hi sansuisamri, veneers are readily available in sheets as wide as 4 ft and lengths 25 ft and more... the cash to buy these large sheets can be staggering, but 24" x 48" sheets can be had at Lowe's....by "BAND-IT" division of Cloverdal Co... find them on the web for sizes and species available.....come in paper backed and iron-on heat activated adhesive.... I've used both, like both. for the faint of heart afraid of contact cements and that process, the iron on item works great... adhesive technology has come a loooooooooooong way in the past 5 year..... all anyone needs is a little patience, ability to read and comprehend directions and the wife at work ( but of course !! ) while you're using her iron !!! nothing to it....really.... I'll be wanting to try swapping my skills for sansui electronics repairs I think...z
 
Nice work Gary. The Mahogany looks great. I much prefer the 1/28" - 1/32" solid (real) veneer over the "Peel 'N Stick" type. The P'NS uses a very thin veneer while the paper/glue side is the thick side.
Titebond, or Elmers Carpenters Glue is the same product. If you glue the surface of the piece you're working on as well as the veneer and alow both to dry,you can then iron on the veneer. Set your iron to it's highest setting and run it along the veneer. Works great. No clamping necessary.
BTW. I'm in the process of re-veneering my JBL 4507 cabinets. The people I buy semiconductors from also have access to some great veneers. They sell to the trade, so everything is top notch.
Nice work Gary.

Ron
 
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