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G-9000db - it's OCCRD recap time!

FYI, those 22V 1W zeners get pretty toasty. Good to mount them 1/4" above the board to keep from scorching it.
 
CORRECTION -
On the board shown I didn't mount ZD01 off the board but I did mount the other zener up a bit. I'm pretty sure the other board has both raised up.
 
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w1jim said:
Hard to see in the picture but I did mount them 1/4" above the PCB - unlike the originals.
Click to expand...

Theres a few components which get toasty on that driver board, you can see some of those TO-126 transistors have been rather hot......and those 2W and 3W ceramic resistors get pretty warm as well......
 
Total capacitor list...

This post will consolidate the previous individual board cap lists onto a single page. I am only listing the values of the original caps and not (generally) what I replaced them with. That will be up to the preferences of the individual as well as what may be available at that time and place.

This list does not include the 4 "oval" main power supply electrolytics.

More notes - LR means a low leakage capacitor. I replaced all electrolytics of 1uf and below with poly film caps. All tantalums replaced with electrolytics except those 1uf and below which get the poly film treatment.

Pay attention to polarity - generally only do one cap at a time. Believe me, it's easy to get confused when you pull out multiples. Take plenty of hi-res pictures to aid in reassembly.

Take a sharpie marker and put marks on the white nylon connectors before you remove them to aid in reassembly.

And now, on to the list...

F-2806 amplifier driver boards (2 - order double the quantity listed below):
4 - 470uf/80v
4 - 33uf/25v
2 - 1uf/50v BiPolar - (replace with a poly film)

F-2796 Head Amp:
4 - 470uf/35v
4 - 47uf/50v
2 - 10uf/16v
2 - 220uf/6.3v bipolar

F-2810 Tuner Power Supply:
1 - 4.7uf/50v
1 - 100uf/10v
1 - 220uf/16v
1 - 220uf/50v
1 - 1000uf/50v

F2807 & F2808 Power Supply boards:
2 - 1000uf/80v
1 - 2200uf/16v

2 - F2814 - Driver connection circuit boards (green boards to either side of the PS PCB)
4 - 4.7uf/80v bipolar

F2795 Microphone amp circuit board (with selector switches)
F2799 Tone control circuit board
8 – 220uf/35v
3 – 100uf/35v
4 – 47uf/25v
1 – 47uf/6.3v
4 – 4.7uf/25v
2 – 3.3uf/25v
4 – 10uf5v LR
2 – 1.0uf/25v LR - (replace with a poly film)
2 – 0.068uf/35v Tantalum – (replace with a poly film)
2 – 100uf/6.3v Bipolar
2 – 47uf/25v Bipolar

F-2688 Dolby circuit board:
2 - 2200uf/16v
6 - 10uf/16v
2 - 3.3uf/50v LR
2 - 1.0uf/50v LR (replace with a poly film)
2 - 100uf/16v

F-2920 Tuner circuit board:
2 - 220uf/16v
3 - 47uf/16v
1 - 220uf/6.3v
12 - 10uf/16v
1 - 47uf/6.3v
1 - 4.7uf/50v
1 - 1.0uf/50v - (replace with a poly film)
1 - 3.3v/35v
1 - 3.3uf/50v
1 - 4.7/25v
2 - 10uf/25v LR
1 - 0.47uf/50v LR - (replace with a poly film)
3 - 2.2uf/50v LR
3 - 1.0uf/50v LR - (replace with a poly film)
1 - 1.0uf/50v Bipolar - (replace with a poly film)
1 - 10uf/16v Bipolar
1 - 0.22/35v Tantalum - (replace with a poly film)
1 - 1.0/35v Tantalum - (replace with a poly film)
1 - 3.3/35v Tantalum - (replace with a poly film)

F-2804 - Pre-Main switch PCB
2 - 1.0uf/50v Bipolar - (replace with a poly film)



And don't forget - YMMV!
 
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That is always hard to determine - the ear/brain doesn't have very good aural memory and it didn't sound bad before.
But I did fix an occasional problem that I attributed to the speaker relays. And now I have the assurance that it is up to snuff.
 
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