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Garrard 301/401 owners club!

I need a bit of advice from our learned members, My 401 will not switch to 78rpm, I don't really need it as I only play 33s and 45s but I would like to think it all works, I have replaced the idler wheel and the springs but it doesn't make any difference, I know I have to switch off the motor to change speeds and it works perfectly on 33 and 45 but when I select 78 the idler wheel gets trapped under the capstan and will not jump up to the 78 speed, I can take off the platter and move the wheel up to the 78 by hand but it won't do it with the platter in place.
Has anyone any ideas please?
 
losthorizon said:
I need a bit of advice from our learned members, My 401 will not switch to 78rpm, I don't really need it as I only play 33s and 45s but I would like to think it all works, I have replaced the idler wheel and the springs but it doesn't make any difference, I know I have to switch off the motor to change speeds and it works perfectly on 33 and 45 but when I select 78 the idler wheel gets trapped under the capstan and will not jump up to the 78 speed, I can take off the platter and move the wheel up to the 78 by hand but it won't do it with the platter in place.
Has anyone any ideas please?
Click to expand...

Just from your description, the motor shaft pulley (capstan) needs adjustment…with the platter off switch to 45 then slide the idler over and note where it lines-up on the pulley, then to 78 and slide the idler over again; my guess is it’s low on the 78…

Edit: you can also turn the motor on each time and gently hold the idler over, it’s also a good way of testing how well the idler/motor are interacting (vibration?)


Andy
 
adnick said:
Just from your description, the motor shaft pulley (capstan) needs adjustment…with the platter off switch to 45 then slide the idler over and note where it lines-up on the pulley, then to 78 and slide the idler over again; my guess is it’s low on the 78…


Andy
Click to expand...
Thanks for that Andy, I will give it a try.
 
adnick said:
Just from your description, the motor shaft pulley (capstan) needs adjustment…with the platter off switch to 45 then slide the idler over and note where it lines-up on the pulley, then to 78 and slide the idler over again; my guess is it’s low on the 78…

Edit: you can also turn the motor on each time and gently hold the idler over, it’s also a good way of testing how well the idler/motor are interacting (vibration?)


Andy
Click to expand...
Andy, I adjusted the capstan as you suggested and with a bit of movement, I have found the sweet spot and now have all the speeds, Thank you so much for your help.
 
Tale of 3 idlers :cool:

Stock 65 year old idler

Audiosilente custom aluminum with rubber ring

Classic Hifi aka Classic Turntable Company based on the original design

43CFF4A7-3102-42AF-B10C-E9F128CE38C0.jpeg

Which one works the best? Just a couple of metrics, speed adjustment and W&F and of course is there any audible noise?

The original wasn’t presenting any issues, extremely quiet good W&F, under the original Garrard specs, that’s probably due to the CTC eddy brake, the original was a bit wobbly. But hey 65+ years old, it needs replacement right? Well here’s the rest of the story ;)

Purchased the Audiosilente version first because of my experience with their products for the TD124, excellent stuff.

Immediately upon the installation there was a problem, considerable vibration, took the platter off to make sure the alignment wasn’t off or something like that, and just holding it against the motor pulley and the vibration is obvious.

Purchased from Ray at CTC and he said let me replace it with one of ours based on the original design.

Installed the CTC idler and it’s slightly thicker (vertically) than the original so the pulley was adjusted accordingly. Excellent no noise and speed/pitch is easy to adjust, but W&F is higher than the old original….This testing is done with an actual vintage W&F tester, and I’ve noticed it’s getting better with use, probably less than 15 hours on it so far so time will tell:naughty:

I’m running a 1 inch wide black rubber belt around the platter, so there’s no idler sound from the platter, there’s actually none without the belt, but figured the belt would dampen any ringing…

I’ll post updates as time progresses, have a couple more mods, and additions coming so stay tuned :bye:


Andy
 
I’m sure this has been asked a million times: All things being equal, what are Garrard owners’ preferences for (the pros/cons of) the 301 vs. the 401? I’m thinking of taking the plunge into one. I prefer the look of the 301, but they’re considerably more expensive than the 401s. I think I could be happy with the 401–perhaps happier with a 301, all things being equal. Mainly, I just want a great endgame TT. I’d either be buying one already restored or be having someone else do the restoration. Im sure I’ll have more queries down the road. Thanks.
 
Bushikan said:
I’m sure this has been asked a million times: All things being equal, what are Garrard owners’ preferences for (the pros/cons of) the 301 vs. the 401? I’m thinking of taking the plunge into one. I prefer the look of the 301, but they’re considerably more expensive than the 401s. I think I could be happy with the 401–perhaps happier with a 301, all things being equal. Mainly, I just want a great endgame TT. I’d either be buying one already restored or be having someone else do the restoration. Im sure I’ll have more queries down the road. Thanks.
Click to expand...
DSC00759.jpg

I've been using a G301 since the mid 90s and added a G401 a couple of years ago. Both have that organic idler sound and if I'm forced to split hairs, I'd say my grease bearing'd 301 offers just a tad bit more of that quality. Technically, the 401 has a more robust motor and chassis. Maybe the ideal Garrard is a 301 chassis as rigid as the 401 + 301 grease bearing + 401 motor?

That said, you'll be happy with either model that's been brought back up to spec.

Good luck!
 
Was faced with a similar decision, originally it was between a TD124 & the 401, they were in my budget range at the time and the reason that it was between those 2 was that I’d already decided my ultimate goal was a grease bearing 301

Selected the TD 124 mainly on looks, knew the 124 responded extremely well to modern performance enhancers and since my goal was a GB 301 the 124 won out at the time….

It took me a year or more of trades and selling to get in a position to seriously look for a GB 301 and a great deal of good fortune ;)


With all that said, what’s your highest rated decision criteria, if it’s just SQ then a 401 is a solid and still very affordable source, they are bargains, when one considers their performance.:thumbsup:

VR
Andy
 
Calling ALL Purist... I have recently started working on a 301 Hammertone. I have spent the last year collecting all the pieces for my dream turntable (301, duel SME tone arms in a killer plinth). I am in the middle of cleaning and rebuilding and have noticed a few blemishes in the original paint. I think for it's age she looks amazing, and I wouldn't change a thing. Just curious what the 'peanut gallery' thinks? Repaint or leave the patina?

Current turntables: 301, 401, Thorens124, (2) 224's
 
CO_rogerw said:
Calling ALL Purist... I have recently started working on a 301 Hammertone. I have spent the last year collecting all the pieces for my dream turntable (301, duel SME tone arms in a killer plinth). I am in the middle of cleaning and rebuilding and have noticed a few blemishes in the original paint. I think for it's age she looks amazing, and I wouldn't change a thing. Just curious what the 'peanut gallery' thinks? Repaint or leave the patina?

Current turntables: 301, 401, Thorens124, (2) 224's
Click to expand...
I suppose it depends on whether you are a Patina sort of person, I personally like the fresh repainted look but can see the charm of the aged appearance, I have all the parts together now for my 401, but I'm waiting for a time when I don't have other demands on me., best of luck with your build.
 
CO_rogerw said:
Just curious what the 'peanut gallery' thinks? Repaint or leave the patina?
Click to expand...
This peanut thinks that if you're gonna repaint, you shouldn't repaint a deck that is in very good condition.
Try and find a 301 in poor state if you're gonna repaint.

For a build that is basically gonna be a new iteration of a 301 (new style plinth, multiple arms etc), a freshly painted, all restored deck might look better. But repainting a deck that is in very good condition with only a few very small blemishes...don't do it. Especially if the hammertone is original.
I have this feeling that nowadays there are way more hammertone 301's than that were originally made, so an original hammertone finish in good condition is something to treasure.

But it's your turntable. You have to live with it.
 
mr_petit said:
This peanut thinks that if you're gonna repaint, you shouldn't repaint a deck that is in very good condition.
Try and find a 301 in poor state if you're gonna repaint.

For a build that is basically gonna be a new iteration of a 301 (new style plinth, multiple arms etc), a freshly painted, all restored deck might look better. But repainting a deck that is in very good condition with only a few very small blemishes...don't do it. Especially if the hammertone is original.
I have this feeling that nowadays there are way more hammertone 301's than that were originally made, so an original hammertone finish in good condition is something to treasure.

But it's your turntable. You have to live with it.
Click to expand...
I totally agree, Don't fix what's not broken.
 
losthorizon said:
I totally agree, Don't fix what's not broken.
Click to expand...
Exactly.

Also, I can never shed the feeling that when I see a beautiful painted and 100% nut&bolt restored deck where nothing of the original state can be seen, I keep thinking: that used to be a totally worn, very abused, tired deck.

With an all original deck in nice condition, you know that it had an easy life, a careful and meticulous owner, I mean caretaker.
So by painting it, you remove this feeling. To some extend at least.
 
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