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Garrard DD75 - Worth Fixing?

setting

ETI_5000,
Also, I was surprised that you were telling me 1.25g. As you can see from the photo I am attaching, it appears on .5 g. I experimented and moved to 1.25 and heard a distortion/grinding/squeak sound so moved it back.
 

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Follow the instructions about balancing the arm -- the bezel with the scale on it may have been moved so its reading wrong, so you need to balance the arm and set the scale at zero (holding the counterweight to keep it from moving) and then turn the whole counterweight so that the scale reads 1.25.
It sound like setting it to 1.25 as it is now actually sets a higher force, and the cartridge is bottoming out on the record.
I have to admit to using stylii much longer than 500 hours and haven't had any problem with wear.
 
In any event, I like the idea of upgrading styli. Is that something I can do myself if I am not technical? I do not want to damage the turntable and do not have tools. I like the idea of just playing 700 hours of vinyl before doing an upgrade. It is good to know that the cart itself is OK, it is just that the stylus perhaps is not the best out there. What I understand you are saying is that the stylus can make a big difference without upgrading massively to a new cart or new turntable.

Yes, changing the stylus to a better one is like getting a better, more expensive cartridge. The stylus is easily changed - it just pushes into the front of the cartridge like an RCA plug into a socket, and changing it just involves pulling it out, and then pushing the new one in - no tools are needed. The Shure M92E user guide I linked to above shows how to do it under picture C on the second page, which shows how the stylus (1) pulls forward out of the cartridge body (2).

And as Nat said, you just have to balance the tonearm before setting the stylus pressure. The Garrard DD75 owner's guide is available for download here http://www.vinylengine.com/library/garrard/dd75.shtml . It shows how to balance the tonearm and set tracking force and anti-skating in sections 7 and 8, and figures 7 and 8. The anti-skating should be set for an elliptical stylus. The better owner's guide for the Technics SL-5200 has clearer illustrations on what to do, and is available here http://www.vinylengine.com/library/technics/sl-5200.shtml . That shows how to balance the tonearm and set tracking force on page 3, and with figures 8 to 11.

Experts who can be believed, in A.J. van den Hul, and an Ortofon engineer, have said that under ideal conditions, 2000 hours of stylus life may be possible.
 
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Set up

I attempted following recommended instructions and could not get the anti skate setting to mirror the recommended weight without misbehaving.

So I reduced the antiskate setting and it seems to at least be playing though does not seem to still be set properly according to directions. It must be one of those things once you know how to do it it's a breeze...
 
I attempted following recommended instructions and could not get the anti skate setting to mirror the recommended weight without misbehaving.

So I reduced the antiskate setting and it seems to at least be playing though does not seem to still be set properly according to directions. It must be one of those things once you know how to do it it's a breeze...

Yes, unfortunately things such as springs and linkages can wear with age, so that what was calibrated correctly at the factory 30-odd years ago for the anti-skating may be wrong now.

The best way to set anti-skating is by using a test record, using one of these test records:
1. The Shure Era IV or V test records (also known as the Shure Audio Obstacle Course or Trackability Test), which were released with Shure’s best cartridges (V15 Type IV or V), and are regularly sold at reasonable prices on Ebay and other used markets.
2. There is a current test record, the Hi-Fi News Test LP, which is available new http://www.needledoctor.com/Hi-Fi-News-Test-Record?sc=2&category=438 – it’s reviewed here http://www.vinylengine.com/hfn-002-test-lp.shtml . It’s excellent, except for the frequency checks for low frequency tonearm/cartridge resonance – the frequencies have been found to be slightly inaccurate when tested with modern digital recording programs, as indicated here http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/vinyl/messages/594322.html .
 
Garrard dd75

I have an ma 5100 Macintosh amp with a garrard dd75 TT looking to upgrade the cartridge. The amp is paired with Klipsch.

Looking to upgrade the cartridge. The store I bought suggested Ortafone due to to balance the signature Mac warm amp sound.

What does the forum suggest for a decent upgrade, max 200.
 
One man's opinion, but I think that a 200 buck cartridge on a DD75 doesn't make that much sense. I believe the turntable is the weak link in your system, and wouldn't get the most out of a really good cartridge. I would consider a better table (used, probably) before upgrading the cartridge.
Even low end cartridges can sound surprisingly good used with a really good arm and table.
 
Hi Nat, your opinion seems to have been a good one. I replaced my Garrard DD75 with a Thorens TD160 MK1 and it is definitely an improvement. I added a Grado Blue to make sure I started with a fresh cart. I am currently listening to Beck's Sea Change on Mofi on a fairly low volume (since it's 2:15am) and it seems to be meeting or exceeding my expectations, that is, good clarity and warm. It is a nice source for the MA 5100 paired with Klipsch.

The only big snag I had was that the Thorens TT was not level by 1 degree from front to back so the platter was rubbing and grinding on the safety screw (aka bottoming out). To solve this, I had to put a huge shim underneath the back to make it level. So now I have a thick shirt folded three times !! under my TT, which looks a bit ragtag. But at least it plays now. I am surprised that there are no adjustable feet on the Thorens, unless I'm missing something.
 
Your Thorens has a suspended subchasis, so the plinth or enclosure is essentially just to hold the subchasis. You adjust by removing the bottom of the plinth and you will see three springs that the chasis is hanging on. You need to tighten the nut on the spring closest to the side that sags, and you may need to do two of them to get it right.
This is a cumbersome procedure, but doable. If you remove the platter, and anything loose (and removing the headshell is a good idea too to protect the cartridge and you might as well remove the counterweight though neither is strictly necessary) and then turn the entire turntable over so that it rests on the dustcover, you can remove the bottom and see the lay of the land.
To adjust, you have to work from underneath, so put the turntable right side up, put all the parts back one (so that the weight and distribution is correct, and then either hang part of the turntable out over the edge of a table or prop the whole thing up on books so you can get at the nut. It may have locktite on it, or have two nuts so they lock eachother, and you have to do battle with it or them, so its best to use a socket wrench so you don't maul the nuts. Adjust till everything is level and bounces up and down without lateral motion -- this may not be entirely possible.
 
Suspended chassis

Thanks. I was wondering that as I read a ton on how cumbersome the procedure is. My confusion about it is that I didn't know if my floor or furniture was unlevel, even though I can visually identify then chassis being off kilter such that when you bounce it the base of the tone arm actually bangs into the side of the well. It was also confusing because the store technician from whom I just bought the unit (mint) told me it is completely set up for me. Perhaps a screw came loose during transit in my car of when adjusting it on my furniture!

In any case I will follow advice one of my friends gave me and bring it back to the store since I just purchased from a store. By the way they also ha a 125 bur I decided that a mint 160 was more in my price range and the other was still being checked and inspected for 20 days and was 200 more. Maybe he will let me watch him adjust it as I suspect an adjustment will be required about once a year.
 
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