General Info on TEAC X-1000R RTR

[Vintage TX]

:scratch2: But this particular deck had some severe problems, logic board, record function was out on L channel, DBX did not work correctly, poor erase function, R-reel motor weak and rust on transport control panel so decided too make this a parts donor for some others I have here.

 

[Vintage TX]

So after a day in the shop pulling my hair and checked all the others with missing or broken parts this was the result:
# Power-supply board to another black X-1000 R.
# Reel-table went to my personal X-1000 R that was bent.
#Timer switch to a silver X-1000 R (broken in shipping)
# Head stack assembly as this parts deck had excellent heads. Will be mounted on a silver X-1000 R that has some wear.
# Small/Large Reel-switch was needed for another black X-1000 R
# Capstan-motor assembly will be used on a X-2000 R
# Black faceplate, head cover, knobs etc will be used on another silver X-1000 R I had for several years with damage on the corner and funky shine.
So a transformation is the plan.:yes:
# Output / Mic / Line control board will be used on the same damaged silver X-1000 R as it's broken off.

When I counted the decks here I found (3) black X-1000 R and (2) Silver X-1000 R all needed some small or bigger parts, so I am pretty satisfied even if I hated the idea to part out a Teac like this.
What do you think guys ?:scratch2:

 

[Vintage TX]

Trouble with reverse play-mode..can be a challenge but in most cases they are related with drive-belt, bad pinch-rollers or this example when someone took the capstan-motor off and didn't pay attention to the spacer between motor and assembly-plate.

Notice the spacer is missing and when you try reverse play the tape will
not play correctly because the belt can't change location between the two fly-wheels.

 

[Vintage TX]

Some models have two spacers and early models one between the motor and mounting plate.
Look at the slightly tilted angle on the right motor.

 

[Vintage TX]

Then the most important issue is the correct drive-belt.
This deck had the wrong belt and not installed right.
Forward play was kind of working but not reverse mode and correct speed.

 

[Vintage TX]

Next important when trouble shooting both X-1000 R, X-2000 R and X-10 R models are the two pinch-rollers.
Glazed, cracked and worn rollers will not work correctly on reverse play-mode and even regular forward mode, tape slips off after a couple of seconds or wander across the heads back and fourth.
Terry Witt does excellent work with rebuilding old worn rollers, I replaced both pinch-rollers after the belt-replacement was done.

Next step I suggest when the drive-belt is installed to check the pinch-roller pressure on reverse play.
Take the head-cover off and press reverse play, look closely how the tape react between the capstan axel and the R-pinch-roller.

 

[Vintage TX]

If the tape trying to start slipping off or wander in and out on the roller you need to adjust the pressure between solenoid-linkage for the pinch-roller assembly.
On the top between the reel-motors you find 2 holes with a nut on each one.

Adjust the right one if the tape moves back and reverse playmode, turn the nut 3 times clockwise with a 9/32 socket, you can start turning less and check at the same time how the tape response during this adjustment.

When the tape runs perfectly still on reverse play, stop the deck and test forward play.
If the tape trying to slip off to the inner side of the roller you have adjusted the pressure too tight, loosen the R-nut one turn and check again.:thmbsp:

 

[schwarcw]

Nice write up Rolf! I have an X-2000 and your writeups on this sticky were so valuable in helping me change the belt and pinch rollers on mine. I couldn't have done it without your guidance.:thmbsp:

I'd love to see you give a lesson in head adjustment for us novices:yes:

Thanks!

Carl

 

[Vintage TX]

Thanks Carl, glad I was able to help you.:tresbon:

 

[stereofisher]

Nice Writeup Rolf!

Missed this one. A really good read!! Eric

 

[Vintage TX]

Thanks Eric, almost done with all decks here now.:thmbsp:
One silver model with damaged faceplate were made into a "hybrid" last night.
I ended up with a silver head-cover instead for a black one as it is original, comments ?:scratch2:

 

[Vintage TX]

Also skipped the black VU-meters for white instead.
Easier for reading, but that maybe is the age, darn bifocus

 

[Vintage TX]

One silver is missing in this picture but personally I prefer the black models.:yes:

 

[stereofisher]

Looks good..

Thanks Eric, almost done with all decks here now.:thmbsp:
One silver model with damaged faceplate were made into a "hybrid" last night.
I ended up with a silver head-cover instead for a black one as it is original, comments ?:scratch2:

Different like me. I like the looks of the head cover and the VU's. It was a fair trade. You got a lot of working TEAC's out of just one! How do you have Rolf?? Nice pics!

Eric

 

[schwarcw]

I think it looks pretty cool! It seems tp "break up" the totally balck color of the unit. With silver or red reels, it would look awsome!

Carl

 

[Vintage TX]

Thanks Eric and Carl, I really like it more now after a couple of days.
Have one more finished on the bench now. A silver one that needed a timer switch and headstack but found out there are 2 different ones on early and late model.
This has one tape-lifter and all the black ones has 2 with result headstack assembly between these are not the same...a tape guide is mounted where the small tape-lifter moves up and down on the early model.
Not mentioned in the service manual either..
Eric, I got five complete now so im happy, it was like a puzzle before making a decision for parting out a X-1000, but now after it's all done I don't feel so bad.

 

[Vintage TX]

Another "hybrid" completed that's been sitting here for a long time.
Teac X-10 R.
One reel-table was smashed off completly and damaged the R-reel-motor.:sigh:

So a used good one from a 32-2 B took care of that problem.
Then the tape was hanging down between the head-stack on playback in playmode..hmm.. so checked the drive-belt and the capstan-motor was installed wrong without the washer for tilting the motor.
Fixed that part and installed a new belt.

The output-knob was missing and these are big grey ones..didn't find a good replacement so used a silver set instead from X-1000 model.
Both tension damper strings for the tension arms were cut off and missing..
Installed a new pair and right washers between the cap/roller.

X-10 R are really white so why not give it some color with black VU-meters.

Back with the face-plate and fixed tension-arms.

The left reel-motor was really slow on rewind, checked the voltage and correct 24 volt feed was OK, so took the motor apart...

 

[Vintage TX]

And found a worn out collector..no good..

Again I was lucky and had a good used motor in stock so 30 minutes later the motor was in place and now it spin as these do without any hesitation even with 10 inch reels.:thmbsp:

Final result with a few changes from original.

X-10 R doesn't have all the features as X-1000 or X-2000 R but still a very good machine with auto-reverse, DBX connection on the back if you crave
noise reduction.

 

[Vintage TX]

Finished !

 

[reeltorock]

What a beauty, I'm personally quite fond of that white look and your black VU meter mod is really cool. Makes me want to get my little X-3 back into working condition for a spare 7" unit.

I'm considering a mint X-2000 in black, $450CDN, not a scratch on it. Will happen this weekend if it does. The deck will join my 34B, 3300S-2T and Akai GX-630 as far as 10.5" decks go.