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Got a Kenwood KR-9600!! Though, needs a few things......

All, 50v-1uf caps will be changed to these http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/ECQ-V1H104JL/P4525-ND/13790

Are those adequate enough?

Pre-Amp
X08-1540-10
35v-470uf x2
16v-33uf
50v-1uf x4
50v-2.2uf x4
10v-47uf x4
50v-3.3uf x3
10v-33uf x2
10v-100uf x4

Power Supply (A)
X00-1830-10
100v-47uf
50v-100uf x3
16v-100uf
16v-220uf x3
35v-47uf x3 (for some reason C16,18 were orange and C12 were grey?) IDK
10v-220uf
50v-4.7uf
16v-470uf
63v-100uf
50v-1uf

Tuner Ass'y
X90-1270-10,61,81
10v-10uf

Mic Amp
X13-2340-10
35v-100uf x2
50v-1uf x6
25v-10uf
10v-47uf

Control Board
X11-1360-10
25v-10uf x6
10v-100uf x8
Tantalum 3.3uf-16v x2 (what to change to?)
25v-100uf x2
35v-100uf
50v-2.2uf x2
50v-1uf x2

Relay Board
X13-2400-10
16v-100uf (this is a non-pole electrolytic. What should i put in there?)
10v-470uf

IF, MPX Board
X02-1100-10
25v-4.7uf x6
16v-10uf x2
50v-1uf
16v-100uf
16v-220uf x2
Tantalum caps-change to what?
25v-1uf x2
16v-2.2uf
25v-1.5uf
25v-3.3uf

Switches
X13-2330-10, 11
10v-100uf x2
6.3v-220uf

Meters
50v-1uf x2

Power Amp Boards
X07-1480-10
10v-220uf x2
50v-10uf x6
100v-3.3uf x4
Tantalum= 16v-2.2uf x2
 
Ditch those tantalums, replace with similar value quality electrolytics.


cap1.jpg
 
Ohh one more thing, best place to order the caps? Mouser? Digikey? Parts express? Anyother places? I just don't want to be ordering from multiple places though i may have to.
 
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Ditto on Mouser. I refurbed a 9400 a year ago. It got total LED lighting as we both agreed it was too dim looking. My guy was very pleased and liked the sound of it better than his refurbed Marantz 2285!
 
lha1992 said:
Did you replace both Rr1 and Rr2's 120Ω 2W resistors with 25W 75Ω aluminum resitors?

And just leave Rr3 and Rr4 alone right?
Click to expand...
Most of the heat comes from the two 120Ω resistors. Getting rid of them goes a long way to reducing the heat that the transistors and the PC board are subjected to. The original 120Ω resistors are in parallel, for a value of 60Ω. Since all we are doing is dropping a bit of voltage to make life easier for the Qr1 pass transistor, a single 75Ω resistor works fine. And yes, 25W is overkill, but the smaller aluminum resistors are really small and hard to work with.
Also, Jailtime was really kind enough to send me some extra matched pairs of the Zetex ZTX694B for Qe1 and Qe2 for the power amp boards. I'm thinking of changing Qe3 also with the Zetex but is that really needed?
Click to expand...
You can, and it might even reduce distortion.
I'll be posting up a cap list of what i got so all of you can check and see if its right. Whats the pecking order of the Nichicon FG, KZ, PW, HE? Getting kinda confused and been searching the forums so.
Click to expand...
My own selection criteria, in a nutshell: http://audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=2526347&postcount=12

DO get rid of the back-to-back tantalum caps at the amp input. I replace these two caps with a single 1.5µf metallized polypropylene cap...the Panasonic ECWF(A) would be suitable here, Mouser #667-ECW-F2105JA. Digikey sells this as well.

One reason I order from Digikey is that I can specify USPS for delivery. Cheap for small orders.
 
EchoWars said:
Most of the heat comes from the two 120Ω resistors. Getting rid of them goes a long way to reducing the heat that the transistors and the PC board are subjected to. The original 120Ω resistors are in parallel, for a value of 60Ω. Since all we are doing is dropping a bit of voltage to make life easier for the Qr1 pass transistor, a single 75Ω resistor works fine. And yes, 25W is overkill, but the smaller aluminum resistors are really small and hard to work with.You can, and it might even reduce distortion.

DO get rid of the back-to-back tantalum caps at the amp input. I replace these two caps with a single 1.5µf metallized polypropylene cap...the Panasonic ECWF(A) would be suitable here, Mouser #667-ECW-F2105JA. Digikey sells this as well.

One reason I order from Digikey is that I can specify USPS for delivery. Cheap for small orders.
Click to expand...


I will be getting rid of the two 120Ω, you just mentioned about mounting the single 75Ω resistor on the wall behind the power board?

As for caps, I made a final choice of the Nichicon PW and HE caps everywhere for the sake of the 105degree rating and the signal paths Elna Silmic II and some Cerafine mix and match.

The back to back tantalum's will be gone for sure after seeing that pic that one member posted above....But when i put the single polypropylene cap in, do i leave one slot where the other tantalum might have been just empty?

Ohhh, quick question I've been playing the 9600 somewhat lately and right now I was just adjusting the controls and when i hit the meter button to go from 3w to 200w I noticed the meters moved and the volume was at zero and their was no signal going through the amp? Does that mean anything?
 
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w1jim said:
Put a jumper wire in place of the second tantalum.
Click to expand...
You can do that, but the holes are so close (seeing that the original tantalum caps are so damn small and the new cap is so much larger) that it works out better to put one lead into the 'first' hole of the incoming cap (Ce2), and the other lead into the 'second' hole of the outgoing cap (Ce13). Thus, the spacing is a bit wider and the new cap fits better.
 
EchoWars said:
You can do that, but the holes are so close (seeing that the original tantalum caps are so damn small and the new cap is so much larger) that it works out better to put one lead into the 'first' hole of the incoming cap (Ce2), and the other lead into the 'second' hole of the outgoing cap (Ce13). Thus, the spacing is a bit wider and the new cap fits better.
Click to expand...

Ahhhh okay that seems wayy better then. It will fit the new cap and not cause as much trouble as to putting a small jumper wire since the holes are so close.

At least thats figured out now. Also, the 25w 75ohm resistor, you mentioned mounting on the "wall" behind the power board B?

And I know this maybe a stupid question but the meter button causing the meters to move whenever I change from 3w to 200w (or vice versa) metering while theirs no signal going through and the volume is all the way down, should I worry about that? If its a regular thing with other 9600s I never noticed until last night. Should I just shoot those controls with more D5 and F5?
 
lha1992 said:
At least thats figured out now. Also, the 25w 75ohm resistor, you mentioned mounting on the "wall" behind the power board B?
Click to expand...
If that's a question, I'm at a loss to understand what you are seeking to learn.
And I know this maybe a stupid question but the meter button causing the meters to move whenever I change from 3w to 200w (or vice versa) metering while theirs no signal going through and the volume is all the way down, should I worry about that? If its a regular thing with other 9600s I never noticed until last night. Should I just shoot those controls with more D5 and F5?
Click to expand...
Probably just the caps in the meter circuit charging. I don't think I'd lose any sleep over it.
 
EchoWars said:
If that's a question, I'm at a loss to understand what you are seeking to learn.Probably just the caps in the meter circuit charging. I don't think I'd lose any sleep over it.
Click to expand...

I'm talking about what you said in post #8: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=5402702&postcount=8

Hmm okay. They do it when I hit the button and then when I go back to 200w metering they go down. Never saw it happen on my KA-9100 when I would switch from 3w to 100w metering. Weird I know but as you said prolly just the old caps charging.
 
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I realize this thread is a couple years old, but I fig I wouldnt start a new one.. simple question. What did you end up using for the non-polar cap on the relay board? The 100uf 16V? Or if anybody else sees this.. what can be used?
 
Any 100uf 16V non-polar radial cap will be fine. I usually throw a Panasonic SU cap in there.
 
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