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Grafyx SP 10

TupeloJohn

New Member
I just got a pair of SP 10s on a trade and the tweeter faceplate is broke too far to reglue on one of them. Is there a place that sells new covers or a repair that can be done? I had thought about just washers and longer screws for the time being. Thanks in advance.
 
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I got my pair with both the faceplates broken at all three holes that hold the tweeters to the faceplates. The tweeters had fallen inside the cabinet. I fixed both of them with epoxy paste, but it was a very picky, detailed activity getting the paste shaped correctly, involving washers the width of the inset holes, toothpicks to set the hole centers, and saran Wrap and the actual tweeter to flatten the paste on the tweeter side. It worked, though.

Otherwise, you'd probably have to pick up one of the pairs of Philips AD 0162 T8 (original), 0163 T8 (cloth dome), or McIntosh 036-353 (also cloth dome, I think) tweeters that regularly come up on the auction site, just to get the faceplates. Plus you also get a pair of spare tweeters.

I actually just did that because I wanted to have a spare pair of cloth domes to try out one day. I'll also probably try to recap one crossover with film caps some time this year and do an AB comparison on mono.
 
I got my pair with both the faceplates broken at all three holes that hold the tweeters to the faceplates. The tweeters had fallen inside the cabinet. I fixed both of them with epoxy paste, but it was a very picky, detailed activity getting the paste shaped correctly, involving washers the width of the inset holes, toothpicks to set the hole centers, and saran Wrap and the actual tweeter to flatten the paste on the tweeter side. It worked, though.

Otherwise, you'd probably have to pick up one of the pairs of Philips AD 0162 T8 (original), 0163 T8 (cloth dome), or McIntosh 036-353 (also cloth dome, I think) tweeters that regularly come up on the auction site, just to get the faceplates. Plus you also get a pair of spare tweeters.

I actually just did that because I wanted to have a spare pair of cloth domes to try out one day. I'll also probably try to recap one crossover with film caps some time this year and do an AB comparison on mono.
I was worried it would be a have to be rebuilt, I searched the forums here and a member had made resin mold of these covers but it looked like they havent been on AK in a while. Thanks for the information, maybe I will look for a spare.
 
The Grafyx SP 10's are amazing speakers. At least mine are. Inherited from wife's late father, who bought them new sometime in 70's. They've never had any work or restoration done on them. They sound so sweet. The speakers and components disappear I only hear music.

I've tried to replace them several times with new speakers. Wharfedale Linton. KLH Model 5. Magnepan's. Most recent Q Acoustics 3050. Nope. None of them sound as tgood as the 50 year old Grafyx speakers. The Linton's came close. Linton's must be voiced very similar to the Grafyx SP 10's. It was honestly hard to tell the difference, but the Grafyx were free and Linton's were $1,800, so I still have the Grafyx and my $1,800 thank you.

And get this - I am driving them with lower wattage amps. Lowest so far is Vincent SV-200 at 25 watts. I'm gonna try a 50 watt SV-500 next week. Both use tubes in pre-amp stage. Most power ever fed to them was my Rega Elex-R @ 72 watts into 8ohms. The Grafyx are pretty inefficient like 84db? So how the heck do they perform well with such low power?

I just don't get it. I keep telling my wife there ain't no way 50 year old speakers can sound that good. If they are rubber surrounds, why have they not deteriorated? Why are crossovers not messed up? Why no need to re-cap? And I'm wrapping 14 gauge wire around what's left of the spring clips. No modern banana or even spades.

These beasts (50 pounds each) are supernatural. Magic. Voodoo. Hoodoo. They scare me.
 
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