• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Guide to Clean Your Scratchy KEF KUBE

Johnny_Law

o.O
Subscriber
The left channel of my KEF Reference 102s started getting scratchy - a classic symptom of dirty contacts somewhere - I quickly narrowed it down to the two switches of my KUBE 102 (EXTEND and TAPE). With some switches / pots, this is a simple matter of applying Deoxit, but I found out the switches used in the KUBE required manual disassembly and cleaning.

I figured I'd take some pictures while doing it and share them here in case anyone else is frustrated by a scratchy KUBE. (No idea if this is common knowledge -- apologize if it is. I couldn't find any help online before doing this ...) I'm not sure how similar the 102 is to other KUBEs - if the switches are the same, cool!

Even though I thought the symptom was only some scratchiness, now that it's back together, it seems like this cleaning has cleaned up the sound way beyond removing scratchiness ... it seems like there's much more clarity coming through, and I gotta say I'm even more impressed with these Reference 102s. :D

I started taking pictures once it was apart ... following in reverse order will guide disassembly.

Here's the KUBE with the switch out and disassembled.

20PK6M7.jpg


The switch has two guides inside that bridge two of the pins at a time, and slide back and forth in order to bridge the closer or the farther pins with the middle pin. Both the pins and the sliders had dark crud built up on contact surfaces. I used 600 grit sandpaper to clean them up until shiny again. (Edit: You may decide to use something else that isn't abrasive!)

eGhhgja.jpg


urLPVdm.jpg


ORPx457.jpg


PbmrPpQ.jpg


After some trial and error I found the best way to re-assemble was to put the sliders in their grooves in the blue switch arm first, and then to put the blue switch arm back into the white lower switch housing making sure the sliders lined up with the pins on the way in.

cHYvAcR.jpg


9Al1aMW.jpg


keN9WLU.jpg


Put the blue housing bracket back on and solder the switch back onto the circuit board.

ZqqGLli.jpg


ernwovk.jpg


FohijTe.jpg


Y70pQXq.jpg


go4kFBq.jpg


L0GV0Vz.jpg


Solder the paper protector back on, then slide the housing back in place and put in the screws.

2oqaQoz.jpg


xztFNBv.jpg


H2vONgo.jpg


Hook it back up and enjoy!

p0SnCIO.jpg


MVZ4TMs.jpg
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
My KUBE 102, I could hardly move, or signal got lost with crackling and so on.
I wiped the PCB with some alcohol, and gave the EXTEND and TAPE the treatment you described.
Problem is gone now
Thanks!!
 
For everyone that would stumble upon this page looking for a solution to their KUBE 102 crackling and dropping channel - should cleaning of contacts fail or you just would like to have the switches replaced instead, these are still available, probably a good preventative measure to replace or just have them at hand really:

https://kefrepair.crazypc.eu/spares/
 
IMHO: Never use 600 grit sandpaper on the slide switches. It will remove the nickel coating and degrade the contacts.
Isopropyl alcohol and a glass fibre brush will make the contact surface (almost) like new, without any abrasion. It just requires a little patience.
 
Thank you for that excellent write up and excellent photos!
Looks like you may have also replaced the caps as yours are a different color than mine. Can i ask what caps you used? Something 'audio grade'? Can't find the 40V 1000uf that are the same size so about to use 50V instead.
Thanks!
 
To be honest I think those were the original caps. I may have replaced them, but I didn't write it down in my notes if I did.

If I did, I would have used 1000uF / 50V, whatever I had on hand which may have been Nichicon UKLs which are low leakage and blue in color.
 
To be honest I think those were the original caps. I may have replaced them, but I didn't write it down in my notes if I did.

If I did, I would have used 1000uF / 50V, whatever I had on hand which may have been Nichicon UKLs which are low leakage and blue in color.
Thank you for that. My caps are black, so i am thinking you did replace yours with the blue Nichicon's. I am going to do the same as well as your switch cleaning to see if it eliminates a slight hiss i hear (discussed in a separate thread where i inspected the unit because of a loud hum which was remedied by a clean of the underside of the board, residue that did not appear to be from caps, but possibly from lubricant that had been in the push buttons).
 
Hi, I have a Kube 103/3 and to be honest...I would like to keep the signal path as clean as possible. So I am sure that I only want to here these speakers with the extend button activated and the tape loop disabled (have pre/power). As I'm not familiar with the wiring/switch technically. If will desolder both switches. What have do been done to brigde the right tracks?

Thank you in advance.
Regards Marcus
 
Hi Marcus
Your KUBE was designed to be an integral part of the KEF 103/3 speakers. If you expect the most out of them use the KUBE as instructed in the manual. Modifying a piece of gear you are ‘not familiar with the wiring/switch technically’ could result in a nice paperweight.
Good luck finding another one that may or may not work.
Happy New Year!

BTW…… Those T-33 tweeters ever been serviced after 30+ years?
 
Heyho...I did all the donut refoaming and FFL replacement....I bet bridging these 2 alps switches will improve the quality of the signal...should be no rocket scoen e for the kube pros out there.
 
Back
Top Bottom