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H/K 330C Restoration

4thDrWhoFan said:
I finally completed the restoration! It was fun with a few "quirks" thrown in for even more fun. :yes:

As the picture below will show, the initial power up after recapping went well with no problems. I adjusted the DC offset on both channels for 10mv. I could have went lower but the HK manual specifically stated 10mv so that is where I set it.

All functions are working and the tuner sounds great. Then the "quirk" appeared when I tested the phono stage. The output on the left channel was a constant crackling and popping while the right channel had no output through the phono stage. After a little troubleshooting, I determined that 1 or more of the four transistors on the phono board must be noisy or breaking down under load because they tested fine out of the circuit. Junctions tested fine and no leakage on reverse bias.

I just replaced all four transistors and now it's dead silent on both channels and my vinyl sounds fantastic. The phono board originally used two 2SA844 & two 2SC1344 transistors. I replaced them with ON SEMI transistors and if anyone is interested, here is what I used to replace them:

2SA844 replaced with BC556BG
2SC1344 replaced with BC548CG

Just be careful because the Base & Collector pins are reversed.
Click to expand...

Well mine just started crackling on the phono output, so I guess I'll need to do the transistor swap as well.

Fantastic sounding phono stage BTW.
 
Aerobat said:
Well mine just started crackling on the phono output, so I guess I'll need to do the transistor swap as well.

Fantastic sounding phono stage BTW.
Click to expand...
Yeah, the phono stage does sound great.

Change all the transistors on the phono board as it will save you time in the long run because even if only 1 transistor is currently bad, chances are the others are not far behind.

Good luck with the transistor replacement.
 
Did anyone post the full parts list for this? I'm planning on recapping mine soon. I can always open it up to see what I need, but a parts list would make things infinitely easier.
Thanks!
 
Open it up, there is not much there. Plus it will give you the opportunity to grab film caps for the phono stage (verify fit) and such. Maybe even upping the main PS caps for more oomph. Only 14 caps if you skip the tuner board. I did as the FM signal was full strength.

Don't forget to verify what you have vs. the SM/Schematic.

Other than pulling the unit from the system, this open and verify is a 30 minute job. This isn't a monster receiver.

Don't forget to separate the preamp from the power amp on the 330c: http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=342464
 
Capacitor
6800uF/35V
1000uF/16V
1000uF/10V
470uF/16V
220uF/16V
100uF/10V
47uF/16V
22uF/16V
22uF/10V
10uF/35V
10uF/16V
4.7uF/25V
1uF/50V
1uF/25V
Extra
2.2uF/50V


Filmcapacitor
0,47uF/35V
0.1uF/35V
0,22uF/22V
Transistors
BC556BG
BC548CG

This is what I found.
I still need to order the parts, but will try to order some extra for my next project.
I will put a sheet on the website, maybe others can add or correct some values.
 
Filmcapacitor polarized?

So, here I am, replacing caps, feeling very technical :thmbsp:
However... This got me stumped: I order Panasonic ECQ filmcapacitor at Mouser (ECQ-V1H104JL3). datasheet
So ready to follow the advice to change the tantalum capacitor I saw on the board that the capicator is polarized, but on my ECQ Panasonic there is no indication of polarity.
My question: is the capacitor polarized? Could I use what I ordered? Is the polarity on the right leg (right side of numbers)?
 
Mixhael said:
So, here I am, replacing caps, feeling very technical :thmbsp:
However... This got me stumped: I order Panasonic ECQ filmcapacitor at Mouser (ECQ-V1H104JL3). datasheet
So ready to follow the advice to change the tantalum capacitor I saw on the board that the capicator is polarized, but on my ECQ Panasonic there is no indication of polarity.
My question: is the capacitor polarized? Could I use what I ordered? Is the polarity on the right leg (right side of numbers)?
Click to expand...

Film capacitors, like the one you ordered, are not polarized.
Tantalum capacitors are polarized but you can use the film capacitor you ordered in place of the tantalum as long as the specs are the same or better.

When I restored my 330C I used the same type of capacitors that were originally used. So I replaced the tantalums with tantalums. I did this because I did not want to alter the sound. I wanted to maintain the Harman Kardon sound so it sounded like it did when it was new. I'm not sure how much, if any, the sound would change by replacing the tantalums with film capacitors but I did not want to take a chance.
 
Good goodly-woobly! I have a 330c that plays decently, but I wish I had the know-how to operate on it like you did yours. Awesome!
 
4thDrWhoFan said:
Film capacitors, like the one you ordered, are not polarized.
Tantalum capacitors are polarized but you can use the film capacitor you ordered in place of the tantalum as long as the specs are the same or better.

When I restored my 330C I used the same type of capacitors that were originally used. So I replaced the tantalums with tantalums. I did this because I did not want to alter the sound. I wanted to maintain the Harman Kardon sound so it sounded like it did when it was new. I'm not sure how much, if any, the sound would change by replacing the tantalums with film capacitors but I did not want to take a chance.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the confirmation. I found a similar line of thinking, but want to be carefull. I have already powered up after all replacements and was very satisfied with the DC offset. (40 mv right channel, 7mv left channel).

It's amazing how many little chores keep coming up. (polishing out scratches without removing the lettering, change two light bulbs, restore the top, set DC offset, order mica before replacing the heat conductor on the transistors).
Keep you guys posted!
 
4thDrWhoFan said:
I finally completed the restoration! It was fun with a few "quirks" thrown in for even more fun. :yes:

As the picture below will show, the initial power up after recapping went well with no problems. I adjusted the DC offset on both channels for 10mv. I could have went lower but the HK manual specifically stated 10mv so that is where I set it.

All functions are working and the tuner sounds great. Then the "quirk" appeared when I tested the phono stage. The output on the left channel was a constant crackling and popping while the right channel had no output through the phono stage. After a little troubleshooting, I determined that 1 or more of the four transistors on the phono board must be noisy or breaking down under load because they tested fine out of the circuit. Junctions tested fine and no leakage on reverse bias.

I just replaced all four transistors and now it's dead silent on both channels and my vinyl sounds fantastic. The phono board originally used two 2SA844 & two 2SC1344 transistors. I replaced them with ON SEMI transistors and if anyone is interested, here is what I used to replace them:

2SA844 replaced with BC556BG
2SC1344 replaced with BC548CG

Just be careful because the Base & Collector pins are reversed.
Click to expand...

HI! Please tell me what other transistors can be replaced 2SC1344 and 2SA844?

BC556BG found on sale, but could not find BC548CG

BC548CG is possible to replace by BC546BG?


What can come from this list?

KSA539 2SA539 2SA684 KSA708 2SA708 2SA733 KSA916 KSA992 2SA992 2SA928 2SA950 2SA965 2SA970 2SA992 2SA1011 2SA1012 2SA1013 2SA1015 2SA1020 2SA1048 2SA1049 2SA1162 2SA1182 2SA1201 2SA1208 2SA1213 2SA1244 2SA1265 2SA1273 2SA1281 KSA1281 2SA1300 2SA1302 2SA1304 2SA1306 2SA1319 2SA1357 2SA1371 2SA1380 2SA1381 2SA1385 A1413 2SA1413 2SA1488 2SA1492 2SA1533 2SA1538 2SA1625 2SA1626 2SA1627 2SA1706 2SA1788 2SA1797 2SA1837 2SA1930 2SA1941 2SA1943 2SA1962 2SA2022 A2040 2SA2040 KSB546 2SB546 KSB596 2SB596 2SB647 2SB649 KSB707 2SB707 2SB734 2SB764 2SB772 2SB817 KSB817 2SB882 2SB891 2SB892 2SB893 2SB1097 KSB1097 2SB1132 2SB1134 B1182 2SB1182 B1184 2SB1184 2SB1203 2SB1277 2SB1326 2SB1366 KSB1366 2SB1375 2SB1559

BC109C BC140 BC141 BC160 BC327 BC337 CC337 BC368 BC369 BC372 BC450 BC489 BC490 BC516 BC517 BC546 BC546A BC546B BC546C BC547 BC547A BC547B BC547C BC550 BC550B BC550C BC556B BC556C BC556 BC557 BC557C BC558 BC558B BC560B BC560C BC560 BC618 BC639 BC640 BC807 BC817 BC818 BC846 BC846A BC846B BC846C BC846BW BC847 BC847A BC847B BC847C BC847BDW BC847BPN BC847BS BC847BT BC848 BC848A BC848B BC848C BC849 BC849B BC850 BC850B BC850C BC856 BC856A BC856B BC856C BC856BW BC857 BC857A BC857B BC857C BC857BDW BC857BS BC858B BC858C BC858 BC860B BC860C BC860 BC868 BC869 BC879 BCP52 BCP53 BCP54 BCP55 BCP56 BCP68 BCP69 BCR108 BCR116 BCR135W BCR142 BCR185W BCR198W BCR523 BCR555 BCV26 BCV27 BCV46 BCV47 BCV61B BCV61C BCV61 BCV62 BCV62B BCV62C BCW30 BCW33 BCW60 BCW60C BCW61 BCW61A BCW61B BCW61C BCW61D BCW65 BCW65B BCW65C BCW66 BCW66H BCW68 BCW68G BCW70 BCW72 BCW89 BCX17 BCX18 BCX19 BCX41 BCX42 BCX53 BCX54 BCX55 BCX56 BCX68 BCX79 BCY58 BCY88

2SC945 2SC1006 KTC1006 2SC1008 2SC1318 2SC1384 2SC1473 2SC1815 KSC1815 2SC1846 2SC1906 2SC1921 2SC1923 2SC1969 2SC1983 KSC1983 2SC2073 2SC2075 2SC2078 2SC2120 2SC2235 2SC2240 2SC2275 2SC2314 KSC2316 KSC2330 2SC2330 KSC2331 2SC2331 2SC2344 2SC2335 KSC2335 2SC2351 2SC2383 2SC2500 2SC2570 2SC2654 2SC2655 2SC2712 2SC2752 2SC2785 2SC2786 2SC2837 2SC2910 2SC2926 2SC2979 2SC3039 2SC3074 2SC3076 KSC3076 2SC3113 2SC3150 2SC3182 2SC3199 2SC3209 2SC3225 2SC3279 2SC3281 KSC3296 2SC3296 2SC3298 2SC3328 2SC3331 2SC3355 2SC3356 2SC3357 2SC3420 2SC3421 2SC3431 2SC3503 2SC3576 2SC3596 KSC3596 2SC3616 2SC3622 2SC3679 2SC3680 2SC3704 2SC3751 2SC3789 2SC3795 2SC3832 2SC3833 2SC3852 2SC3856 2SC3979 2SC3987 2SC4046 2SC4106 2SC4107 2SC4162 2SC4163 2SC4226 2SC4237 2SC4242 2SC4256 2SC4460 2SC4793 2SC5001 KSC5020 KSC5021 KSC5023 KSC5030 KSC5042 2SC5047 2SC5088 2SC5129 2SC5144 2SC5148 2SC5149 2SC5150 2SC5171 2SC5200 2SC5299 2SC5302 2SC5404 2SC5411 2SC5443 2SC5444 2SC5445 2SC5446 2SC5449 2SC5587 2SC5588 2SC5707 2SC5707 2SC5803 KSC5803 2SD526 KSD526 2SD667 2SD669 2SD869 2SD882 2SD965 2SD1012 2SD1083 2SD1111 2SD1207 2SD1212 2SD1273 KSD1273 2SD1415 KTD1415 2SD1428 2SD1468 2SD1555 2SD1616 2SD1624 D1760 2SD1760 2SD1803 2SD1804 2SD1829 2SD1862 2SD1864 2SD1878 2SD1889 2SD1913 2SD1933 2SD1944 2SD1691 KSD1691 2SD2000 2SD2012 2SD2088 2SD2144 2SD2150 2SD2165 2SD2206 2SD2389

or this

http://hi-fidelity-forum.com/forum/thread-82885.html
 
Last edited:
Hello lovers of sound. New guy here with a project (they only come when they want something, right?) Well, I just bought a Harman Kardon 330c and I hope to make it my entry into this hobby so I can achieve my lifelong dream of making one simple valve receiver. (I have a few more lifelong dreams, but those are for other forums)

I ask a few questions.

1) Can someone direct me to a video or something so that I can see someone who is actually good at soldering things. I know based on watching people do things I know a lot about, like making sushi rice, Youtube is great for watching experts do things and also for watching hacks pretend to be experts doing things. Since I couldn't tell the difference, could someone direct me?

2) I have searched for ways to LED this beast. It sounds like I need to cut something, resister that thing and then run the lights in series. Is there an easier way? Like, can I just run a resister somewhere and then find LED bulbs that exactly fit my receiver? I heard one guy busted out a light and ran Christmas lights. I bet that works but I'm looking for something less custom.

3) I have a multimeter, and well, just a multimeter. Can I do this with a kit this basic? http://www.amazon.com/Elenco-Electr...946&sr=8-1&keywords=electronics+soldering+kit

I plan to follow this awesome thread and learn some things.

More questions to follow. Free sushi to anyone who helps!
dk
 
da_kube said:
1) Can someone direct me to a video or something so that I can see someone who is actually good at soldering things. I know based on watching people do things I know a lot about, like making sushi rice, Youtube is great for watching experts do things and also for watching hacks pretend to be experts doing things. Since I couldn't tell the difference, could someone direct me?
Click to expand...
Sorry, I have never watched any "how to" soldering videos.

2) I have searched for ways to LED this beast. It sounds like I need to cut something, resister that thing and then run the lights in series. Is there an easier way? Like, can I just run a resister somewhere and then find LED bulbs that exactly fit my receiver? I heard one guy busted out a light and ran Christmas lights. I bet that works but I'm looking for something less custom.
Click to expand...
Why would you want to replace the bulbs with LEDs? Just curious.
There are no LEDs that will exactly fit the receiver as direct replacements. The 330C uses fuse style bulbs, meaning they look just like fuses.

3) I have a multimeter, and well, just a multimeter. Can I do this with a kit this basic? http://www.amazon.com/Elenco-Electr...946&sr=8-1&keywords=electronics+soldering+kit
Click to expand...
Not sure what the wattage is of the soldering iron but it should get most of the work done. The main filter caps might give that iron a run for its money though.

Hope your restoration turns out great and that you have fun doing it.
 
I at least know that Aerobat! I just mean some of the skills I learn from this project will carry over onto future ones.
 
DrWho, I don't mind the green lights but I saw a few on eBay with the blue tint and they looked really nice. I think replacing the lamps will be good enough but the LED looks sweet, to me.
 
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