Hafler DH-200

[z-adamson]

You should be firng these up with a 60watt bulb and the fuses going to the driver boards pulled. Then with the fuses in.

When properly set up each heatsink should be at about 88 degrees when fully warmed up and an ambient temp of 65*.

If you find youself having to turn the trim pots much past the center position, something is wrong. At full health, the pots should be very close to center.

Here is a pic of a 200 I just finished restoring. I am monitoring bias, offset and temp.

 

[MKG]

I put some more cheese on to smoke this afternoon (I’m trying apple wood this time) and then got to work on these dh-200’s. Finished replacing all old electrolytic caps in both, set bias, double checked offset. Everything was looking good.
So, I went ahead and installed the bridging kits in both.
They’re running now, hooked up to a pair of NLA.
First impressions... holy crap. They opened up the NLA and made them sound better than I’ve ever heard them before.
Bass is significantly improved. It sounds like they’re digging deeper than they have before. They’re not- they’re just doing it with much more clarity.
Mids sound cleaner & clearer as well.
No change in the highs.
I think I understand now why some people believe there is no such thing as too much power.
Ignore the crooked label, I’ll fix that soon.

 

[Blue Shadow]

One of these days I might need to get out my bridging kits. Depends on what speakers I use because the monk amps want to see an eight ohm load and i don't have a lot of those. I would go with a quieted label and let the amps talk not the label maker. Glad they are working right and sounding so nice

 

[MKG]

The labels are more to make sure that even if they go on the shelf for an extended period of time, my dumb ass remembers that they’re bridged.
I’m only 37 but I’ve got the memory of a goldfish these days... too much job stress.

 

[MKG]

Better?

 

[Blue Shadow]

Yes. Would be even better with a coat of satin black under the label. But there is time for that.