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Hafler wow, not bad at all

Any mods for the DH-120 besides better caps ?
I haven't investigated that one. I just googled the DH-200 before I did work on it and stuff on the web showed up.

Caps, using film when you can and quality connectors is all you need to do, I'd expect. I don't know the quality of the connectors on the 120, just referencing the ability to upgrade what the earlier 200 has.
 
I use my Hafler 120 in my main system.
I chose it over more powerful amplifiers just because I thought it sounded better. Fyi,
my speakers are very efficient.
 
I went to the DIY website and this guy send me a recipe for the DH-120, I am not a tech, can you guys tell me what is the reasoning behind all this data he sent me ?08_Hafler_DH-120-Mod_1W_20kHz-spectr.png 07_Hafler_DH-120-Mod_1W_Bode.png 06_Hafler_DH-120-Mod_10kHz-SWDT.png 05_Hafler_DH-120-Mod_10kHz-dist.png 04_Hafler_DH-120-Mod_20kHz-spectr.png 03_Hafler_DH-120-Mod_Loop-Gain.png 02_Hafler_DH-120-Mod_Bode.png 01_Hafler_DH-120-Mod_SCH.png
 
More text from the expert

"The amplifier is not designed for a load of 4 ohms.

A possible revision of the DH-120 and the test results are shown in the following figures.

It is important to reduce the resistance of the volume control potentiometer.

The output inductance is reduced to 0.2 µH.

Turn on after revision through a 60 W incandescent bulb, and only after making sure of stable operation, you can start testing.

If you measure THD with Audoprecision, you are unlikely to find changes.

Changes, I hope, you will hear on the musical signals."

"The most obvious difference in the operation of the two variants of amplifiers is visible when measuring distortion on the same scale.
Changes are circled in red circles."

small explanations.
“Slew” distortion is nothing more than the loss of micro-level HF information in an audio signal.
The main reason for this process is the signal propagation delay (time Propagation Delay) through the amplifying path. Amplifiers with negative feedback are in the worst position, since the delayed signal returns to the input at the summation point and introduces additional distortion.
As an analogy with this type of distortion, we can imagine the following process:
  • we take mineral water rich in minerals and having a characteristic smell and taste;
  • we divide the water in half and subject one half to the distillation process;
  • then we compare distilled water and mineral water in taste and smell.
Approximately the same thing happens in amplifiers, when, as a result of the loss of microinformation, the sound becomes sterile, but “dead”


Initially, the distortion spectrum was measured on the 4th period (I note that we listen to music starting from the first period, whether it is a drum hit, a piano key or a cymbal).
The latest versions of the program do not allow you to measure distortion at earlier periods where distortion is maximum, as it was before the 9th version of the Micro Cap program inclusive.
And here is the result of testing in steady state. As you can see in the steady state, both circuit options have the same parameters (this is what Aduoprecision will show).


08a_Hafler_HD-120_1W_20kHz-spectr.png Harmonic Distortion Analysis Limits.png 08a_Hafler_DH-120-Mod_1W_20kHz-spectr.png
 
D3S_1120-1600b.jpg Hi Hafler aficionados,
I built my DH-120 and DH-100 back in the 80s and they still work and sound great today, love them.
Recently repurposed my amp to run in mono for the center channel to compliment my DH-200 powering R&L of my 6.1 system. Here is the weird thing though...my Denon receiver which is my main 6.1 processor has provisions to switch the amps on and off when it goes on and off, but the 120's pilot light stays on while the 200's light turns off. Same outlet pair, even swapped them as a sanity check. Makes no sense to me...it sounds fine though.
Does anyone know if using the 120 in mono mode might cause this to happen for some reason?
Note that it is switched to mono and normal and it calls for the + and - leads attach to the main L and R + red outputs respectively...do not use the black outputs.
 
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View attachment 2792650 Hi Hafler aficionados,
I built my DH-120 and DH-100 back in the 80s and they still work and sound great today, love them.
Recently repurposed my amp to run in mono for the center channel to compliment my DH-200 powering R&L of my 6.1 system. Here is the weird thing though...my Denon receiver which is my main 6.1 processor has provisions to switch the amps on and off when it goes on and off, but the 120's pilot light stays on while the 200's light turns off. Same outlet pair, even swapped them as a sanity check. Makes no sense to me...it sounds fine though.
Does anyone know if using the 120 in mono mode might cause this to happen for some reason?
Note that it is switched to mono and normal and it calls for the + and - leads attach to the main L and R + red outputs respectively...do not use the black outputs.
Guys, I **** you not...I just swapped both plugs again to make sure, so does that mean I am crazy? lol
The DH200 turns on and off with the receiver, but the DH120 stays on. So I have to get off my butt and switch it manually, can you even imagine?
Since nobody can explain this basic phenomena, I guess I have to deal with it.
Can anyone recommend an AC relay type of thing that is of reasonable cost? I would like to use it for the 2 amps and not draw power through the receiver, but have the receiver do the switching.
Anybody???
 

EC8-F9891-6128-4510-973-D-233-C64-B05-F45.jpg

Musical Concepts bad boy….it’s taking a break now, the tubes are in charge for the moment
 
You need a remote ac switch. Key fob to turn on-off a dongle with ac plug and receptacle(s).
 
You need a remote ac switch. Key fob to turn on-off a dongle with ac plug and receptacle(s).
Yes that would work, but I would like an automatic switch. Doing some googling I'm thinking of this type. At least one reviewer has purposed it for audio...
Amazon.com: CLEESINK Automatic Vacuum Switch for Power Tools, Dust Control Autoswitch with Unique Current Sensing Technology to Delay Vacuum On, Prevent Circuit Overload and Eliminating Circuit Breaker Tripping : Industrial & Scientific
 
I have not flipped the switch in years as my receiver has taken care of power to the DH200 for that time. And it still does, just not the DH120 which is mind boggling...

I meant on both of them, they use the same power switch I believe. My DH-200 switch exploded recently and I had to replace it. My guess is that the switch on your 200 is already shorted and thats why it does and the 120 does not. Or I could have it backwards, maybe the switch on the 120 is shorted and thats why it stays on. Its gotta be something in one of those two switches though.
 
Thanks Sam,
Good thought on the switches, so I checked and they both work on and off. They appear to be different also. The 200 switch lights up completely and the 120 lights up on one side only. Knock on wood they don't explode on me.
Keep those ideas coming though...
 
Thanks Sam,
Good thought on the switches, so I checked and they both work on and off. They appear to be different also. The 200 switch lights up completely and the 120 lights up on one side only. Knock on wood they don't explode on me.
Keep those ideas coming though...

they are three pin, so I’m wondering if they are ‘seeming’ to act normal. I’d open them up and look at them, it’s very easy. see if you see anything obvious, shorted or shortable solder connections on the switch and the resistor on the switch. I’d check that resistor, I’ve seen pictures of some that are just crumbling. If that all checks out I’d say you can rule out the switches. I knocked on wood for a while, until mine failed dramatically. A short on two of those three pins could cause the light to work normally but the power to stay on. I think.
 
Well I got the 'vacuum' switcher in hoping it would fix my problem, but the 120 is still doing the same thing. Scratching my head since there should be no power available to it.
Here is a pic of the switch.
20230220_173453.jpg
 
Well I got the 'vacuum' switcher in hoping it would fix my problem, but the 120 is still doing the same thing. Scratching my head since there should be no power available to it.
Here is a pic of the switch.
View attachment 2806220

that looks normal to me. Maybe check the ground for the switch while your in there, that’s the only other thing I can think of. Oh. There is a slight possibility the switch is shorted internally and has bridged itself open. Maybe put a VM to it and see what it does.
 
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That might be true but where is the power coming from to begin with? The new vacuum switch is working fine and should be shutting off any power.
Is it possible that the amps caps are discharging and feeding thru the switch or something weird like that?
 
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