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Hagerman turnaround time

wianieq

wianieq

Well-Known Member
Hello everyone. I ordered the Hagtech Cornet2 board last week. I was wondering how long I should expect for it to arrive. What are your experiences?

I'm not complaining or bitching, just wanting a ballpark figure. I know its based in Hawaii and thats going to extend it a bit. Have all the other parts and itching to build.

Thanks.
 
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It took a couple of weeks to get my Clarinet board,but I ordered it around the holidays.They are a great company to deal with,and have a good web forum.Let us know how your build goes.
Dave
 
drillher said:
It took a couple of weeks to get my Clarinet board,but I ordered it around the holidays.They are a great company to deal with,and have a good web forum.Let us know how your build goes.
Dave
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I ordered the Hammond 2" deep chassis and drilled holes without a drill press so I'm going to redo the chassis later. I'm a little worried about the board and the ac inlet/power switch having issues. I cut the power switch thingy as low as possible, but it still looks like it might bump against the pcb.

I think I'm going to get the Lansing chassis when more funds become available. Drill press as well.
 
I hope that your chassis will work OK.You can buy a bench drill press pretty cheap which is what I used.It is a quality product so you may as well build it right the first time.
Dave
 
I'll say this; you won't find a better gentleman to deal with than Jim. He is a class act in a world full of bad acts.:thmbsp:
 
Hello

Jim is awesome to deal with. I have the Cornet 2 and LOVE it. The Mundorf SIO outputs caps made a noticeable improvement. The heater voltage can be low. Mine was 5 volt. I change R223 to around 1.3 ohm by adding resistors to get to 6.2 volts and that made a significant improvement in sound. Jim may have changed the value in the parts list by now or maybe not! If you are using a moving coil cartridge, you can load the cartridge by changing the input resitors that are 47K. I have a 1:10 ratio step up transformer, so changed mine to 10K to load for 100ohms. Peace. Robert
 
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Dr. Hagerman will answer your questions directly and the members on the web forum will answer questions and give you advice on how to tweek your build by selecting caps and resistors.I used a step drill and a bench drill press for my Clarinet chassis.The product reviews that I have seen have all been very positive on the Hagerman products.
Dave
 
wianieq said:
I ordered the Hammond 2" deep chassis and drilled holes without a drill press so I'm going to redo the chassis later.

I think I'm going to get the Lansing chassis when more funds become available. Drill press as well.
Click to expand...

I did the Hammond chassis for my Clarinet (Hagerman's preamp) and I'd say it was a mistake. One does a lot of work to get the chassis done properly and I think that as much as things had to be changed from the plan and as crowded as it ended up that I would either do a completely original chassis (wood and metal combo type thing for beauty) or the Lansing chassis.
 
I am very happy with my Clarinet.I used the Lansing chassis and am glad that I don't need to take it apart to upgrade it,which is why I suggested doing it right the first time.
Dave
 
You need the lansing chassis to do it right.Wood if done right can be costly but gorgeous.
Either way if you mount chassis rca's mount them lower than recomended so you can wire it up better.
2 weeks on regular stuff like the cornet2 and piccolo.A little longer on other stuff with the chime being the longest.For me 3 weeks.
I have found chineese boxes that look like they will fit and do look better than the lansing stuff.Half price too.So search ebay.
Good luck!
 
Well, the board was in my mailbox when I got home yesterday. So it took just a little less than a week from ordering to receive. So for turnaround time I can't give higher marks.


jcmjrt said:
I did the Hammond chassis for my Clarinet (Hagerman's preamp) and I'd say it was a mistake. One does a lot of work to get the chassis done properly and I think that as much as things had to be changed from the plan and as crowded as it ended up that I would either do a completely original chassis (wood and metal combo type thing for beauty) or the Lansing chassis.
Click to expand...

That is the one thing I've noticed too. I could only get the board to fit into the chassis by bending it, because of the metal flap overhangs, and I just wasn't comfortable with that. I could trim the board a little but I don't like that idea either. I'm going to build a ramshackle jobbie for now because I want to hear this thing and I'm not going to have the dough to buy a proper chassis for a while. I still had the cover plate and redrilled the holes in that. I'll probably find some wood scraps and make a skirt for now.

The board does just scream quality. I like it. I'm using mostly all parts from the list. I think I want to hear it stock and see what the upgrades do.
 
One tip.You want to figure out what level of sound you like and spend upfront for the parts.I have swaped out stuff on these board's and they hold up but.. if you heat the joint up too much you can pull a trace.The upside is it's easy to fix most times.
So my advice would be print out the manuel from the site,blow it up abit.
Double or tripple check every part bofore you solder it.
Some resistors or caps will not fit use a needlenose plier to bend lead's neatly
Good luck!
Oh one more thing make sure you install the tube connector's on the right side of the board.I just messed this up myself.I thought it was the end of the world but with a little patient's was able to pull them and install right.
 
Well I got my Cornet 2 finished. But I now have a problem. One of the channels has a static type noise that increases with the volume. I've swapped tubes and reflowed all the joints on that channel and can't seem to pinpoint the problem. My voltages all look ok. From that type of problem, does anyone have any suggestions as to where I should be looking to determine what is wrong. I was hoping it was a tube, thats easy. No luck.

Thanks for any suggestions.
 
I should mention that I had it running last night and it was ok for a while. I think I heard the noise a few times while playing but it wasn't until I had the music off that I started hearing it more. It gradually increased and I tried it today and the noise is pretty much constant.
 
You should go to the Hagerman web forum and post a question or email Dr. Hagerman directly if the web forum doesn't help you.I'm sure that you will get it solved with the help of others that built that kit.
Dave
 
It's now alive and working. I think the noise issue I had was something to do with the crimp connections. I don't know for sure because I reflowed all the joints and put in Auricap coupling caps.

I do not like the whole crimping thing. That did not go smoothly at all. I tried my stripping tool first that had a crimping function and that did not work. Two trips to the hardware store and two dedicated crimping tools later, I am not sold on it at all. Does anyone have any tips on that? After I get this thing in its permanent state, I think I am going to solder the wires to the terminals.

Now that its up and running and I have had a chance to listen to it a bit, I am very happy. It does get better and better as its settling in. I used the Hammond cover plate and made a wooden skirt and it ended up kind of looking like a bottlehead amp. I do have the low heater voltage and have some resistors on the way for that. I'll see what the difference is then.
 
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