• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Hakko FR-301 desoldering gun misery

I’m surprised you have to run it on 4. I rarely take mine off of 1, and it’s the 120v version. I’ve bumped it up to 2 before for lead free but never higher. I use a variety of tips from 1-1.6mm including the extended, super extended ones and the oval ones. Going on 5 years old and never an issue. I use the proper cleaning rods and clean the unit every few months.
 
I actually looked at mine last night and found it was on 4. I don't think I've ever touched it, but its highly possible its gotten bumped at some point. I put it back down to 2 and it seems fine. i had wondered why the tinning seemed to constantly burn off, too much heat would explain that.

I've pulled the nozzle off and cleared the tube out using a drill bit held in a hand chuck a few times. The poker tool won't do that.
 
no, I've peeled the filter several times to get it going again. I've also flipped the diaphragms over after cleaning them to restore vacuum without having to buy new parts. The flapper valves also sometimes need wiping off, the flux residue makes them sticky.
 
gadget73 said:
I've pulled the nozzle off and cleared the tube out using a drill bit held in a hand chuck a few times. The poker tool won't do that.
Click to expand...
Thankfully I haven't had to resort to using a drill bit yet. I've had a few close calls, but when that happens I find that dipping it in flux paste (I use MG RA 8342) kinda sucks up into the tube, and then the rod starts working again to clear it out. I only ever had one really bad clog (in the tip), and I was able to fix that by stuffing a little wad of solder wire between the tip and the heater, and then turning it on.

I need to order a few spare parts just to have on hand in case Hakko discontinues them like they did with their older models. The flapper/diaphgram thing, etc.

And yeah running it on 4 totally destroys the tips. Also the express lane to lifted pads. I still have the 4-5 year old tips for mine, I usually use the 1.3mm but I used it so much it kinda opened up to around the 1.6, so I finally bought another. I'm guilty of using it to pry leads up too... especially on the crap where they fold them flush to the board.
 
its like any air pump, leaky valves seriously compromise their pumping ability. I've rebuilt a number of air compressors with the same problem.
 
I guess in this case the problem escalates b/c leaky valves weaken the suction and molten solder from the nozzle doesn't make it up to the collector tube. Instead, it solidifies on the way up, creates solder flakes and clogs up the suction path. Then it melts again, over and over, and solidifies into a packed layer of solder - like snow and ice in the north pole. It's a pain!
 
Mangler said:
I have the 808 and have used it for a decade. I can't imagine not having it. What I do to preserve the ceramic filters is, I pull off some chore boy metal scrubbing pad and put just enough inside the cup that it catches the solder instead of the filter. Keep flux away from the thing because that makes mess. you can also strip a layer off the filter for a time or two before its gunked up enough to need replacement. Dont stuff it with chore boy just enough to catch the solder and not disturb to suction.

View attachment 3823933
Click to expand...
Hakko 808 desoldering gun.JPG
I've had my 808 for over 20 years. Keep the tip and all else clean. Tinned the tip and it's good to go.

The only way to do a clean resolder job. :thumbsup:

0dfa9049-09f7-408b-8a62-2e67e872d232.jpg
 
My 808 died, something in the controller upstream of the mosfet. If the gate is forced on the heater goes but thats as far as I was able to determine. Its all SMD stuff, outside my wheelhouse. Shame, it had a better pump than the 301, though that big V twin hanging off the back end did make it more poorly balanced. I think its still around somewhere, probably kept with the "I'll fix this someday" thought.
 
gadget73 said:
My 808 died, something in the controller upstream of the mosfet. If the gate is forced on the heater goes but thats as far as I was able to determine. Its all SMD stuff, outside my wheelhouse. Shame, it had a better pump than the 301, though that big V twin hanging off the back end did make it more poorly balanced. I think its still around somewhere, probably kept with the "I'll fix this someday" thought.
Click to expand...
I love my "808." It's just heavier and clumsier than the newer "301." But when working, the "808" is sweet!

47806ed7-e7f2-466d-b2bd-8983aaadb25b.gif
 
Since the FR-301 is trouble free and back into circulation and constant use, I thought it was a good time to fix its one inherent flaw, the lack of a powered-on indicator.

Sure it has a heating-up indicator led on the front, but that turns off when the instrument is up to temperature and it's also on the wrong side of the tool. What were they thinking? Who has view access to the front when it's in the mounting rack?

So here goes the most trivial mod - a power-on indicator mains voltage LED soldered to the live mains lead on one hand, and to the output of the on-off switch on the other.

Ain't that cool eh?

hJSML07.jpeg
 
A good tip I use with vacuum desoldering guns is to count to 10 between each joint.
It takes a little longer but allows it to recover from the rush of cooling air from the PCB
- which can easily cool the hot metal tube to below the melting point of solder.

If the exit side of that pipe inside the gun gets too cold it blocks very fast.
In my experience this works very well and I just empty the gun when full, no blockages.
I'm sure professional guns are better, but lower cost guns are fine with this lower duty cycle.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom