Barrington
Active Member
This is embarrassing, I have a picture on my phone but I'm not sure how to post it.
Harman Kardon Rabco ST-6 tracking roller replacement help
- Thread starter ymarko
- Start date
Barrington
Active Member
Basically the roller just kinda dropped out of the little holes and is now sitting loose on top of the carriage rod. I'm really sorry I'm not being very helpful. Using forums is new to me
kmp14
Active Member
I PM'd you with some details, but to keep the detail in this thread, for my ST-7 I completely disassembled the the entire drive mechanism so I had the tonearm carriage separated from the tracks it runs on. It was somewhat easy to get the roller out then. Getting it in? Now that took some patience.
Barrington
Active Member
Well I ended up getting it out and back in! But wrong size o-ring. Can't seem to find a #31 or the reported 3/8 x 19/32 o-ring. The search continues. At least I know it's possible to do now.
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Luckysomer
New Member
Home Depot
I picked up a few #0564 o-rings at Lowes 3/8 ID, 19/32 OD 7/64 Wall. I installed one. Perfect..
I picked up a few #0564 o-rings at Lowes 3/8 ID, 19/32 OD 7/64 Wall. I installed one. Perfect..
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Barrington
Active Member
Thanks for the help everyone, because of all the detailed writeup I was able to get the TT fixed, adjusted and working perfectly! I appreciate the help 
TwoCat
Active Member
If I may add;
I am the original owner of my vintage 1980 ST6, and its tracking roller disintegrated at age 25.
I don't recal trying to get the part, but after reading this thread, the discovery was the #31 o-ring. This is an AMERICAN TT, it uses American parts...#31 is a plumbing oring, available individually or in an assortment kit. Menards has a 407 piece assortment kit for $12. All 'merican O-rings, not metric.
The local big box store had one for 80 cents. I had a dickens of a time getting the roller out and back in, until I read the part about using surgical tools. It also helps to remove the 6 screws holding the base to the surround (plinth) and remove it while working. You will need all the space you can open up.
I did not remove the tonearm assembly to do this.
First I back off considerabley the nut on the fastener that gently clamps together the plastic carrier that holds the roller while allowing it to rotate.
Do not allow the screw to move, by using a jeweler's flat blade screwdriver to hold the slot head screw stationary while you loosen the clamp nut.
Note the adjustment (#threads protruding) of the guide roller, then I loosened the double-nut (5/16) on the tracking shaft guide roller adjustment. I used the forceps to hold the inner nut while breaking loose the outer locking nut. I removed them both, but the roller shaft is permanently attached, only allowing a bit of space.
This allowed the carriage assy to swivel just enough to help with getting the aluminum roller out and then back in and into the bearing holes.
The roller has on each end a slight bit of shaft that fits the bearing holes on either side of the carrier. I used a pair of dental picks to spread the carrier enough to disengage the roller pins and then the roller drops. To get the roller out, one has to sort of 'tumble' the roller while swiveling and pushing the carrier up as far as it will go. Careful so as not to scratch the tracking shaft.
I happen to have a pair of small, slender curved nose 48-0091 forceps, and was able to extract the roller using these to hold the shaft of the roller, but the harder part is getting the roller back in. This is where the slender nosed forceps really come into play between the carriage assy and pivot bracket and lining up the ends of the roller so the pins fit into the bearing holes. It is hard to illuminate and see and requires a stretch of patience to get it done.
Thanks all for leading me a bit!
k
I am the original owner of my vintage 1980 ST6, and its tracking roller disintegrated at age 25.
I don't recal trying to get the part, but after reading this thread, the discovery was the #31 o-ring. This is an AMERICAN TT, it uses American parts...#31 is a plumbing oring, available individually or in an assortment kit. Menards has a 407 piece assortment kit for $12. All 'merican O-rings, not metric.
The local big box store had one for 80 cents. I had a dickens of a time getting the roller out and back in, until I read the part about using surgical tools. It also helps to remove the 6 screws holding the base to the surround (plinth) and remove it while working. You will need all the space you can open up.
I did not remove the tonearm assembly to do this.
First I back off considerabley the nut on the fastener that gently clamps together the plastic carrier that holds the roller while allowing it to rotate.
Do not allow the screw to move, by using a jeweler's flat blade screwdriver to hold the slot head screw stationary while you loosen the clamp nut.
Note the adjustment (#threads protruding) of the guide roller, then I loosened the double-nut (5/16) on the tracking shaft guide roller adjustment. I used the forceps to hold the inner nut while breaking loose the outer locking nut. I removed them both, but the roller shaft is permanently attached, only allowing a bit of space.
This allowed the carriage assy to swivel just enough to help with getting the aluminum roller out and then back in and into the bearing holes.
The roller has on each end a slight bit of shaft that fits the bearing holes on either side of the carrier. I used a pair of dental picks to spread the carrier enough to disengage the roller pins and then the roller drops. To get the roller out, one has to sort of 'tumble' the roller while swiveling and pushing the carrier up as far as it will go. Careful so as not to scratch the tracking shaft.
I happen to have a pair of small, slender curved nose 48-0091 forceps, and was able to extract the roller using these to hold the shaft of the roller, but the harder part is getting the roller back in. This is where the slender nosed forceps really come into play between the carriage assy and pivot bracket and lining up the ends of the roller so the pins fit into the bearing holes. It is hard to illuminate and see and requires a stretch of patience to get it done.
Thanks all for leading me a bit!
k
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