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Harman Kardon T60 Issues

Sam Cogley said:
Oh dear.
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What? WD-40 is lubricant. :D I sprayed it right into the motor pulley. Could that have damaged it? I though WD-40 was good for everything :screwy: It certainly was grinding and not spinning right before I sprayed it. I didn't know I could open up the motor assembly at the time and lube it that way.
 
AmCan said:
What? WD-40 is lubricant. :D I sprayed it right into the motor pulley. Could that have damaged it? I though WD-40 was good for everything :screwy: It certainly was grinding and not spinning right before I sprayed it. I didn't know I could open up the motor assembly at the time and lube it that way.
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WD-40 is mainly a cleaning solvent. It has a light lubricant, but it's not appropriate for an electric motor. If it was grinding, the WD40 must have cleaned out some corrosion.
 
Hey Guys good news! I was able to dial in the pitch control tonight. It took a bit of tenacity though. Those variable resistors are very sensitive. I am talking about a mm difference between working or not. I finally ended up hanging the turntable over the edge of the work bench so that I could have access to the undercarriage while the table was right side up. That way I didn't have to keep setting up the table each time I wanted to test the change to the resistor. I also noticed that the mounting screws for the motor control were loose, probably from flipping the table over so many times. Just goes to show to always double check the simplest things. Now that I am at least able to manually adjust the speed control I am definitely keeping the table. Although I am still pondering a resistor upgrade here. If they are that sensitive it seems like the speed controls are bound to function better from an upgrade. It's just like me though not to leave well enough alone and end up messing it up more.

Does anyone know which caps are the audio signal caps? This technical manual seems to be much different from an amp or preamp schematic.
 
There have been a few threads on here about the quartz sounding slow or unstable . I have a mint T65 that I picked up last month that sounds slow to me when the quartz is on lock. A few of us T owners agree that the sound is steady when the quartz is off. If you ask me -- quartz lock and belt driven TT are somewhat redundant.
 
1gr8e320a said:
There have been a few threads on here about the quartz sounding slow or unstable . I have a mint T65 that I picked up last month that sounds slow to me when the quartz is on lock. A few of us T owners agree that the sound is steady when the quartz is off. If you ask me -- quartz lock and belt driven TT are somewhat redundant.
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Yes, agree. I had a T-55c that wasn't right when the Quartz Lock was used as well. leave it off and all was fine.

The Mod to place the power supply outside of the undercarriage in its own enclosure also added a couple of capacitor to the power supply, and eliminates the need for the QL to be on.

As seen here:

http://www.wghwoodworking.com/harman_kardon/h-k.htm

.
 
I understand that the speed in QL was "trimmed" by motor pulley selection, that just sounds unlikely and wrong but I know that the particular belt used will make a difference how this TT performs.
 
Pio1980 said:
I understand that the speed in QL was "trimmed" by motor pulley selection, that just sounds unlikely and wrong but I know that the particular belt used will make a difference how this TT performs.
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Well, the SM clearly identifies replacing the pulley ... and my HK dealer contact confirmed that. The SM also provides part numbers. Unfortunately HK also turfed all their US parts for these tables some time ago. But I agree, the correct belt is important too. Haven't ordered a FBM 25.75 yet ... not using the table at the moment ... although I did give it a quick spin the other day with a new ADC QLM36 MkIII :music:
 

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Optimal Cartridge

All right guys I am ready to upgrade from my Nagaoka MP 110 cartridge and I can't help but want the MP 200 with Boron Cantilever. I can't see where else to go from here and I am afraid to pick another brand. So I thought I'd ask to see what other HK T-60 owners are using with their Linn Arms. If you had $3 to $5 hundred to spend what would you get? The Grado Platinum or Dynavector 10X5, or MP 200? I could also get the Linn Adikt? What's the best cartridge for this table?
 
Pio1980 said:
I'd do the fuse box gimbal damping mod first, the ITO arm demands it;
http://audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=5595799&postcount=59
http://audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=5598877&postcount=68
Full mod thread; http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=3318000#post3318000
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Thanks. I make my own custom isolation footers out of silicone but it is a good idea to brush silicon on the suspension springs. Here is a forum on the isolation devices I make and use with my TT.
http://www.canuckaudiomart.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=24636
What cartridge do you use?
 
Pio1980 said:
I'm presently using one of the $20 e-Bay Ortofon/Digitrac 200 NE 'tombstone' tipped carts.
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I just pulled the trigger on an Ebay vintage cartridge too, an SAE 1000e. Its an MC cartridge with a high enough load impedance to be used with a MM system. Should be a giant killer for the price. Thanks for the damping advice I am going to build something to sit on top of the tonearm. What are you filling it with? Silicone fluid?
 
AmCan;
"Thanks for the damping advice I am going to build something to sit on top of the tonearm. What are you filling it with? Silicone fluid? "

Not silicone, use something like the fuse box filled with glass microbeads as used to reflectorize highway markings or dry clean graded sand. The fuse box should be sufficiently low-profile to clear the dust cover so do check that.
 
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AmCan said:
So I thought I'd ask to see what other HK T-60 owners are using with their Linn Arms.
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As my signature says, I'm using a Shure V15 III & Jico SAS combo on my T55C. Resonance frequency is at 8Hz which is perfectly acceptable, and it sounds wonderful.

I paid 50 euros for the cartridge and around 140 euros for the stylus (customs included), so it fits the price range.
 
rnorton said:
There are no pics or even a decent description of these feet at that URL. How do you make them and what do they look like?
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They are made from a high grade non-adhesive silicone and are cylindrical, which is an ideal shape because they create nonlinearity, which means they have adaptability to their frequency response. I mix, de-air, pour, de-mold, and trim the silicone. I have cylinder shape molds that I use to create the shape, plus vacuum chamber and compressor for de-airing.

This is what they look like
http://www.canuckaudiomart.com/details/648992644-speaker__amplifier_isolation_footers/
 
AmCan said:
They are made from a high grade non-adhesive silicone and are cylindrical, which is an ideal shape because they create nonlinearity, which means they have adaptability to their frequency response. I mix, de-air, pour, de-mold, and trim the silicone. I have cylinder shape molds that I use to create the shape, plus vacuum chamber and compressor for de-airing.

This is what they look like
http://www.canuckaudiomart.com/details/648992644-speaker__amplifier_isolation_footers/
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Do they just sit under the gear or can they be permanently screwed in to replace old feet? If the latter, I'll probably be getting back to you when I finally tackle my Mitsubishi LT-20 overhaul, as one of its feet has fallen apart.
 
rnorton said:
Do they just sit under the gear or can they be permanently screwed in to replace old feet? If the latter, I'll probably be getting back to you when I finally tackle my Mitsubishi LT-20 overhaul, as one of its feet has fallen apart.
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They actually suction on to the bottom, which is great for TT because then it works as a friction damper. A friction damper works against an lateral forces created from the spinning of the platter. I don't wish to derail this thread. I just wanted to mention that i have experience with isolation and damping but if you are interested later then give me a PM or contact me through the other website. Thanks.
 
Van_Isle said:
... Haven't ordered a FBM 25.75 yet ... not using the table at the moment ... although I did give it a quick spin the other day with a new ADC QLM36 MkIII :music:
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Just to follow up I ordered a FBM 25.75 belt and I've pulled the T60 out of storage (on bit of a sell-off / clean-up at the moment). With this belt the speed is correct on the quartz lock - which is great news in terms of all the turntable's functions working properly. Now I'm just playing with it on and off to decide for myself which sounds best.
 
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