Heathkit TT-1 tester thoughts?
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ferninando
Lunatic Member
how old, how much $, emissions or gm/mu? oper/svc mnl included for svc/cal? cond?
JohnMac
Addicted Member
Mid-60s, not sure on price yet but have an idea what they sell for depending on condition. $100-$350.Manual, mutual conductance, emissions, leakage, life test. Not serviced or calibrated. I did clean it inside and out. Not the best cosmetic condition but not important if price is right.
Mostly wonder if this is a decent tester or if I should look for something else. I don't want to buy something then later be wanting something else.
Mostly wonder if this is a decent tester or if I should look for something else. I don't want to buy something then later be wanting something else.
electroking
a- v- karma member
I trust the TT-1 does its measurements based on sound principles, but it has
to be calibrated if you are to rely on the measurement results and use them
on a commercial basis. I have had one for many years, but never got around
to restoring it or calibrating it properly. Being a well designed kit, it should
be possible to keep it alive for many years. The adapter (fitting in the cover)
is required for testing more modern tubes (compactrons, novars, etc.). If what
you have on hand does not have that adapter (sorry I forgot the model no.), you
might consider passing this unit (or buying it at reduced price as a spare) as
the adapter will be difficult to find separately. Good luck!
to be calibrated if you are to rely on the measurement results and use them
on a commercial basis. I have had one for many years, but never got around
to restoring it or calibrating it properly. Being a well designed kit, it should
be possible to keep it alive for many years. The adapter (fitting in the cover)
is required for testing more modern tubes (compactrons, novars, etc.). If what
you have on hand does not have that adapter (sorry I forgot the model no.), you
might consider passing this unit (or buying it at reduced price as a spare) as
the adapter will be difficult to find separately. Good luck!
PakProtector
AK member
hey-Hey!!!,
That is the only tester that has a built-in oscillator for the gm test( instead of using 60 cps ). With the manual and a good set of tubes in it, calibrating it should be straightforward( and possible with simple tools ). I have a Hickok 752 and I'd love to find some way to justify a TT1.
cheers,
Douglas
That is the only tester that has a built-in oscillator for the gm test( instead of using 60 cps ). With the manual and a good set of tubes in it, calibrating it should be straightforward( and possible with simple tools ). I have a Hickok 752 and I'd love to find some way to justify a TT1.
cheers,
Douglas
roberts67
Volts Vinyl Tubes
Hello
The Hickok 6000/6000A is a nice compact tester and will test pretty much everything. There are charts for obsolete tubes, foreign tubes etc. You can test compactrons and nuvistor if you get an adapter made by Hickok, Eico or Sencore. Here is a good calibration guide for these -
http://tubesound.com/2010/04/28/hickok-6000-calibration/
Robert
The Hickok 6000/6000A is a nice compact tester and will test pretty much everything. There are charts for obsolete tubes, foreign tubes etc. You can test compactrons and nuvistor if you get an adapter made by Hickok, Eico or Sencore. Here is a good calibration guide for these -
http://tubesound.com/2010/04/28/hickok-6000-calibration/
Robert
JohnMac
Addicted Member
I ended up getting the Heathkit for a very good price. After some research it seems that it will suit my needs. I was watching a nice TT-1 on ebay, was considering bidding until the bidding ran up and closed at $456. I got mine for considerably less so can afford to put some $ into it if necessary. It seems to work fine but wonder if I should do any work to it. I know someone that could calibrate it but should I first replace any components as a matter of routine?
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electroking
a- v- karma member
I once found a web site that stated the most troublesome area was the constant
current heater supply, which basically uses the 120-V line in series with a large
capacitor as a current source. This is used on the 300-, 450- and 600-mA positions
of the heater selector. IIRC, the author said that at least one big capacitor in
this area was failure prone. OTOH, this part of the unit is not called up if you
select any other heater setting. I will try to look up that site. Good luck!
P.S.: this link should provide some great info.
http://www.kw.igs.net/~knickerson/heathkit.html
current heater supply, which basically uses the 120-V line in series with a large
capacitor as a current source. This is used on the 300-, 450- and 600-mA positions
of the heater selector. IIRC, the author said that at least one big capacitor in
this area was failure prone. OTOH, this part of the unit is not called up if you
select any other heater setting. I will try to look up that site. Good luck!
P.S.: this link should provide some great info.
http://www.kw.igs.net/~knickerson/heathkit.html
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