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Help! Adcom ACE-515: Anyone been inside?

JKent

JKent

Active Member
I have an ACE-515 that I bought used about a year ago to go with my 565 pre and 555/II power amp. Worked fine for a while but now the "switched" outlets no longer switch--they just stay on.
I have the Service Manual and am guessing the problem is the 2 relays (any other thoughts?). They're available from Mouser but... I can't get the dang thing open!
I removed screws but the top of the metal cover seems to be riveted to the face plate.
Has anyone ever opened one of these? I could take it to my tech and ask him to open it but I'd feel like a dope.
Thanks for any help.
 
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duh... the "rivets" were tiny socket-head machine screws. Got it open and found scorching. A little closer look found a totally fried MOV. ACE515 innerds.jpg burned MOV.jpg
 
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Raynald said:
looks like it did its job!
Click to expand...
Yes. But it raises several questions:
  1. Do I just replace the MOVs?
  2. Parts list says there are three MOVs, 130V 11 Joules. Replace just the burned 1 or all 3? and with the same value?
  3. Did the burned MOV kill the switched outlets (they are now always on) or do I still need to replace (or maybe just test) the relays? I'm inclined to replace as preventive maintenance.
  4. There are 3 electrolytic capacitors in there. Should those be replaced? Again--preventive maintenance. I'm thinking bump up the voltage and get Panasonic 105 degree caps.
  5. Any other thoughts?
 
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I'd replace all of the MOVs since there was an event that smoked that one so the rest may well be stressed. The relays I'd test. I doubt they'd be welded shut unless that thing took a major hit.

The caps you may as well change if you're in there and making a parts order anyway.
 
The funny thing is, I don't know what blew the MOV. I have a whole-house surge suppressor mounted behind the electric meter, and the ACE-515 was plugged into a Belkin Pure AV Home Theater Console. So lots of redundancy. I dunno. Maybe it was fried when I bought it but I don't think so.

So I removed the toasted MOV. Put an order together for Mouser. Will replace the 3 MOVs, also replacing all 'lytics: Replaced the 1uF 50V with a 1uF 100V I had on hand, The parts list shows three 10uF 35V caps but the ones in there are 50V. I ordered 63V. And a 22uF 63V is being replaced with a 100V.

Also ordered the relays. The ones in there are Potter & Brumfield K10P-11A55-AC120 but the Parts List shows equivalents, including an Omron LY2-O-US-AC120. Mouser had that. Probably should have tested the old ones but I'm more comfortable with new at this point.

Will report back when it's back together.
 
I still use mine, I found one of these at a Out of the Closet charity store and paid 5.00 for it. When I purchased it the guy behind the counter asked me what it was and I told him. He then said that everyone at the store didn't have a clue what it was.
 
I have two, probably picked up during Adcom sales contests long ago. I use one on my main rig the other on my HT. Still working after all of these years.
 
A minor bump in the road. I ordered relays LY2-AC110/120. Those are socket-mount.
The correct part is LY2-0-AC110/120 (Mouser part LY2-0-AC110/120). I'll order those today. In the meantime I replaced the MOVs and electrolytics. Took the old relays apart and the contact points are all scorched. Will post some photos when I get the new relays in.
 
Here are shots of the burned contact points and a table of the replaced parts. For the electrolytics I used Nichicon 105 degree C rated. Panasonics would be good too. Went up one (or 2) step in voltage rating for each one--C5, 11 and 12 are listed as 35V but the ones in there were 50V so I replaced them with 63V. I tried to use a film cap for the 1uF but it was a little too big so I used a Nichicon 'lytic I had on hand.

The MOV was obviously fried ("did its job" as Raynald said) but I suspect the burned contact points in the relays are normal wear and tear from switching high power amps. There are a lot of these still in use so it would seem replacing the relays would be good preventive maintenance.

The last photo shows the innerds all finished, with the new Omron relays. The unit is now back in service and working fine.
 

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I want to run two GFA-555s off an ACE-515 but use a GFP-750 preamp.
Wondering the best way to switch accessory outlets so that they are grounded...
Any thoughts?? Also I read where someone converted this device to 230v.
 
Koan said:
I want to run two GFA-555s off an ACE-515
Click to expand...
That's gonna be too much of a load for a single ACE-515.
The GFA-555 is rated for something like 1000W max draw and the two ACE-515 amp outlets can only handle like 1500W max.

Koan said:
Wondering the best way to switch accessory outlets so that they are grounded...
Click to expand...
Koan said:
Also I read where someone converted this device to 230v.
Click to expand...
Koan said:
Any thoughts??
Click to expand...
If you need grounded accessory outlets & 230V it's probably best to look elsewhere.
Espeically taking into account the above situation...

Matter of fact I cant think of any single 120V / 15A power conditioners that can handle 2000W,usually 1500-1800 is about their max.
Probably need to look at HD 20A units for that sorta current capacity.

HTH

Bret P.
 
Ok, I get there are better solutions I can buy, but I already own an ACE 515. Given that an entire 15a circuit maxes out at 1800 w that is not my main concern....I can run new circuits as needed, I cant believe changing accessories to grounded outlets cam be that difficult. I’ll bet som one has done it??
 
I would think it wouldn't be any harder than installing a grounded female connector and hooking the ground pin to the common ground inside and the other wires as they were. If you look inside everything shares a common ground so the hardest part would be the sheet metal modification.
 
xero-D-hero said:
That's gonna be too much of a load for a single ACE-515.
The GFA-555 is rated for something like 1000W max draw and the two ACE-515 amp outlets can only handle like 1500W max.




If you need grounded accessory outlets & 230V it's probably best to look elsewhere.
Espeically taking into account the above situation...

Matter of fact I cant think of any single 120V / 15A power conditioners that can handle 2000W,usually 1500-1800 is about their max.
Probably need to look at HD 20A units for that sorta current capacity.

HTH

Bret P.
Click to expand...

Ive run a GFA555II and an Outlaw 5x200 for around 12 years plugged into my ACE515. Im not certain what the Max draw of these amps is, but it must be well above 1500.
Just yesterday, it quit switching those outputs and they are on all the time. Researching a repair has led me to this forum.
Thanks JKent for the parts breakdown. IM looking forward to saving the old girl. Mine is white, as is my 555II and ive loved these products for a long time now !
 
I would bet on a failed relay. Like you, I already have one of these, so it probably makes sense to use it with minor alterations

Thanks @JKent for all the helpful info!!
 
Big amps will cause relay contacts to scorch. Just the way things go. It's the break of the contact that arcs and that is what destroys the contact buttons.

It made it for this long. I had one at one time, nice little unit.
 
The MOV's will take enough hits until it hits the last one which takes it out. There is only so many joules they can take.
 
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