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Help getting started on R2R

bigx5murf

bigx5murf

Super Member
I just picked up my first R2R machine, a Sony TC755. I'd like some help in acquiring parts I'll need to use it, aside from picking up some albums. So far I've figured the following.

1-Take up reel
2-a pair of reel hubs
3-hub locks

Is there anything else? Can anyone recommend a good newbie guide for R2R?
 
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Any plastic or metal take up reel will do. Personally I prefer plastic because I find them more manageable and less likely to bend and scratch the faceplate of the deck but some folks like the look of the metal reels (they do look pretty cool). Metal reels are essential if you will be loading up new bulk tape pancakes because they have removable flanges.

For NAB hub adapters you can use pretty much any type AFAIK although I really like the TEAC TZ-612. The original Sony hub adapters for that machine are excellent but very hard to find (and expensive).

Get yourself a head demagnetizer and learn how to use it properly. A good used one is fine IMO, as far as I can tell there's really no discernible difference between expensive ones and ordinary ones (it's a very simple basic device).

I'd get a bulk tape eraser too so that you can quickly erase any used tape you may pick up along the way. It's best to bulk erase used tape before you record over it because your machine may not fully line up with the machine that originally recorded the previous material on the tape (old material may bleed through onto new recording).

Definitely get some high purity isopropyl alcohol and some swabs to keep the tape path and heads clean clean clean! This is super important, heads should be kept spotless (especially when recording). Best not to use alcohol on rubber parts like the pinch roller, I use a moistened swab to get tape residue off of it and occasionally treat it with rubber conditioner.

Search out threads on which tapes are "Sticky Shed Offenders". Steer clear of Ampex 456 and 457, Grandmaster and any other back coated Ampex tape formulas. Never use Scotch 226 and 227 or "Classic" branded tapes either.
 
audiojones said:
Any plastic or metal take up reel will do. Personally I prefer plastic because I find them more manageable and less likely to bend and scratch the faceplate of the deck but some folks like the look of the metal reels (they do look pretty cool). Metal reels are essential if you will be loading up new bulk tape pancakes because they have removable flanges.

For NAB hub adapters you can use pretty much any type AFAIK although I really like the TEAC TZ-612. The original Sony hub adapters for that machine are excellent but very hard to find (and expensive).

Get yourself a head demagnetizer and learn how to use it properly. A good used one is fine IMO, as far as I can tell there's really no discernible difference between expensive ones and ordinary ones (it's a very simple basic device).

I'd get a bulk tape eraser too so that you can quickly erase any used tape you may pick up along the way. It's best to bulk erase used tape before you record over it because your machine may not fully line up with the machine that originally recorded the previous material on the tape (old material may bleed through onto new recording).

Definitely get some high purity isopropyl alcohol and some swabs to keep the tape path and heads clean clean clean! This is super important, heads should be kept spotless (especially when recording). Best not to use alcohol on rubber parts like the pinch roller, I use a moistened swab to get tape residue off of it and occasionally treat it with rubber conditioner.

Search out threads on which tapes are "Sticky Shed Offenders". Steer clear of Ampex 456 and 457, Grandmaster and any other back coated Ampex tape formulas. Never use Scotch 226 and 227 or "Classic" branded tapes either.
Click to expand...

With the plastic take up reels, I won't need NAB hubs correct? How important are hub locks? My unit is missing the lower tape cover, which is proving hard to find, it's not essential right?
 
There are some 10.5" reels that don't need the large hub adapters (ReVox style reels for example) but the majority of both plastic and metal reels have the large NAB style hub and you will need adapters to use them. If using 7" reels then you don't need adapters.

Hub locks are found on the better NAB adapters such as the TEAC TZ-612, they allow you to release the reel with a quick half turn of the front part of the adapter or in some cases removal of a quick release lock ring. If you get the cheaper one piece adapters without this feature you will have to remove the entire reel and adapter, pop the adapter out, flip over the reel, reinstall the adapter and reinstall the reel (PITA). The deck has built in spindle locks for 7" reels and to lock in the large hub adapters.

The bottom head cover is not essential, in fact the heads are easier to get to for cleaning and de-magnetizing when it's off anyway. Keep looking around, one will show up eventually (that series was very popular and the bottom cover from any of them will fit).
 
Great advice from AJ! The only thing I would add (and maybe you've already done this) is to download the owner and service manuals here http://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/sony/tc-755.shtml
It's common for older decks that moved around a lot to need minor service, lubrication, or adjustments. Sometimes they can be missing parts as you have discovered so it's good to look everything over before you start rolling those expensive tapes.
Also, a general guide can be found here: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/audiofaq.htm#audtape
 
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Found the missing F&F badge inside once I opened it up. No luck on the lower head cover.
20160913_162554_zpsjm0axhu2.jpg


Man, I was about to give up, but the WD40 and bic lighter finally pulled through, and freed the pinch rollers. The only album I've got so far is a 7" of Herb Albert & Tijuana Brass, What now my love. I have the same album on vinyl, on the same test amp, I'm blown away by how much better the R2R sounds!
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I forgot to take a before shot when I started cleaning out the dust.
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Here's a shot of the heads.
20160913_161812_zps2oulheh4.jpg

The brakes still worked, but since they've already shed deposits all over the place. I'm going to replace the brake material while I've got everything open.
20160913_162403_zpsalhlzqfo.jpg
 
Really nice job of cleaning that deck up! Cleanliness is Godliness. Is that the original belt?
BTW, those Disney films won't play well on it :p
 
I believe both belts are original. When I opened it up, looked like I was the first to disturb the adhesive holding the top part of the front panel.

I just noticed, but serial number seems particularly low.
20160913_170510_zpssurl3aio.jpg
 
Having trouble finding a material that provides the right amount of friction, while being the right thickness to be used as brake lining. Tried a few things I found at a local arts and crafts shop. But so far, they've been either too thick, or too slippery.
 
They are, but much thinner than anything I've been able to source at local arts and crafts stores. Seems I need something thinner than 1mm.
 
bigx5murf said:
They are, but much thinner than anything I've been able to source at local arts and crafts stores. Seems I need something thinner than 1mm.
Click to expand...

Might try a fabric store-I am not sure which fabric product would work best, and shed the least.
 
I managed to find an adhesive backed fetl at Michael's that seems to work well as brakes.

I got ahold of some used sony tape on a 7" reel. I tried recording with it, and for some reason, it starts out sounding great. But towards the end of the tape, the highs sound distorted, but the mids still sound fine. Anyone have any idea what might be causing this? I tried it recording on both directions, and the issue is present. I have some NOS Realistic tape on the way, just trying to make sure it's not the tape that's causing this issue.
 
bigx5murf said:
I managed to find an adhesive backed fetl at Michael's that seems to work well as brakes.

I got ahold of some used sony tape on a 7" reel. I tried recording with it, and for some reason, it starts out sounding great. But towards the end of the tape, the highs sound distorted, but the mids still sound fine. Anyone have any idea what might be causing this? I tried it recording on both directions, and the issue is present. I have some NOS Realistic tape on the way, just trying to make sure it's not the tape that's causing this issue.
Click to expand...

Does this happen when rerecording over the same portion of the tape? Generally, loss of highs is caused by the tape not making good contact with the heads. Most likely cause is the tape shedding or leaving oxide on the heads. Clean with cotton swabs and isopropyl alcohol-rub firmly in the same direction as the tape travels. Test recording again. If your highs come back, then get different tape. Realistic tape quality is very uneven. If it gives you similar results, get some known good tape. Read up here on the forums here, for better brands.
 
oldvinyldude said:
Does this happen when rerecording over the same portion of the tape? Generally, loss of highs is caused by the tape not making good contact with the heads. Most likely cause is the tape shedding or leaving oxide on the heads. Clean with cotton swabs and isopropyl alcohol-rub firmly in the same direction as the tape travels. Test recording again. If your highs come back, then get different tape. Realistic tape quality is very uneven. If it gives you similar results, get some known good tape. Read up here on the forums here, for better brands.
Click to expand...

Yes, it happens over the same portion, the very end, in both directions. Also, I do see a residue being left on the heads. I'll report back after attempting to clean the heads.
 
Sony tape does not hold up well, I wouldn't recommend using it. Sony PR-150 tape has well known issues with the lubricant in it drying out which makes it squeal and chatter through the transport (dry tape syndrome). Once it starts to squeal it begins to leave residue all over the tape path as the oxide coating gets scrapped off. The machine will also transmit the squealing and chattering noise of the tape through your amp like fingernails on a chalk board. I had a case of Sony PR-150 tape that was stored under proper conditions over its lifetime and still it all dried out and became useless (I've got lots of empty take up reels now though).

The high bias Sony SLH tape has a tendency to become gooey and is a known sticky shed offender (different from dry tape syndrome but just as bad or worse) so avoid Sony recording tape altogether. Sometimes SLH is ok but I've got a bunch here that definitely isn't useable because it comes apart in the machine's transport.
 
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I have an older Sony SLH tape, SLH-7-550-BL, that is fine, has recorded very well.
I think the newer SLH tapes, in the silver boxes, are the no good ones.
Mine is in a white plastic box.
 
I'm using the PR-150, that comes in the red, black, and white boxes. I just don't understand why in both directions, they sound great, until the last song, then distorted highs.

I've cleaned the heads this weekend, using q-tips dipped in IPA, in the direction of play. Going to try to record on the second reel of the same tape I have when I find some time.

On another note, had my parents and in laws over for dinner this past weekend. Both my dad, and father in law were blown away to see the machine. They thought it was somehow purchased new!
 
Hi. Quite often the very last part of the tape, packed the most tightly on the reel hub, becomes bad over time, especially if the tape has not been used for years.
I have found this on several older tapes I have. Is usually not a good idea to record anything on this part of the tape.
However, if you use some of the brand new manufactured tape, this will not be a problem.
 
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