Help identifying CV DX-5 crossover parts

[El Gato]

Hey all, I've been lurking here for a while and found myself needing some help or maybe some reassurance, advice, opinions, mockery....

So what your looking at here is a crossover for a Cerwin Vega DX-5. I've decided that the Mexican caps and whatnots have got to go and be replaced with high quality components.

The questions: For the values, are the yellow caps 2.0uf 200V and 5.0uf 200V respectively? (Not sure what 2K and 5K would be otherwise)

What exactly is the little yellow disc cap? I can barely make out markings. There appears to be an X11 or an X1) at the top. Next line down there is I believe a .050 and under that, not sure but looks like GE3E.

Any advice for high quality replacement of the white 10W resistor?

The black caps or what ever they may be at the ends of the board are wrapped in a black plastic film preventing me from seeing any identifying marks. I didn't want to take the plastic off because I didn't know if that would destroy them or not. Any help on what these are would also be greatly appreciated.

I thinking about replacing the yellow caps with Audience Auricap XO's of equal value. Thank you for any help!

Jim

 

[NAD80]

Hello El Gato. Welcome to AK. The yellow caps are both film caps. The CB1 is a resettable fuse. https://www.parts-express.com/cat/speaker-protection-devices/307. Check out on parts express for the replacement resistors.Mills are what everybody recommends for the resistors. But their brand might be fine. Anyway the resistors in the crossovers might be still good, Don't useually go bad unless overpowered. Check out the crossover caps they carry. Used their Dayton caps to recap my Mission 737 speakers . Had a pair of CV R-10's yrs back. (10 inch woofer, 1 inch tweeter) from 78. The things on the ends of the PCB are the inductors . Good luck with the CV's. The crossover looks great.

 

[El Gato]

Hello El Gato. Welcome to AK. The yellow caps are both film caps. The CB1 is a resettable fuse. https://www.parts-express.com/cat/speaker-protection-devices/307. Check out on parts express for the replacement resistors.Mills are what everybody recommends for the resistors. But their brand might be fine. Anyway the resistors in the crossovers might be still good, Don't useually go bad unless overpowered. Check out the crossover caps they carry. Used their Dayton caps to recap my Mission 737 speakers . Had a pair of CV R-10's yrs back. (10 inch woofer, 1 inch tweeter) from 78. The things on the ends of the PCB are the inductors . Good luck with the CV's. The crossover looks great.

Thanks NAD80. I appreciate what help I can get. Not sure how to go about replacing those inductors yet since I don't see any info on them that would help. It looks like air cores would be the way to go as the foil types appear to be quite expensive...Ive been learning a few things with this project.

 

[cademan]

Inductors don't need to be replaced unless they are open. They are just a single wire wrapped around an iron slug.

Just my humble opinion but if you are going to replace parts in the crossover, you risk changing the original design voicing. Unless you are having problems and the parts test okay, I would probably leave it alone.

 

[El Gato]

Inductors don't need to be replaced unless they are open. They are just a single wire wrapped around an iron slug.

Just my humble opinion but if you are going to replace parts in the crossover, you risk changing the original design voicing. Unless you are having problems and the parts test okay, I would probably leave it alone.

Thanks for the reply cademan. Im going for an improvement in sound quality...hopefully I'll achieve that. I was planning on making changes in steps. 1st, replace the caps with high quality caps of equal value. Then give a good listen to the speakers to see if there has been an acceptable improvement. The thought of too much change at once did cross my mind as well, but I was thinking as long as I stay with caps of equal value I should be OK. But, I'm no expert obviously.

Would you think that replacing just the caps for starters is too risky? I would hold on to the originals just in case my plans went south.

 

[avionic]

(Not sure what 2K and 5K would be otherwise)

The K is the tolerance code .. +/- 10 %

 

[El Gato]

The K is the tolerance code most likely..

Yeah...K = +/- 10% I do believe.