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Help please, with sources for BIG filter caps. (22000uF x 80 VDC) [NIKKO NR-1415]

mrwasabihead

mrwasabihead

Fix or restore..fix or restore..fix or restore?
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Greetings, I recently acquired a vintage beastie in the shape of a NIKKO, NR-1415 receiver.
It had several of the problems that old monsters commonly exhibit, which I took care of without too much trouble.
But it seems that one of the aptly sized filter caps (22000uF - 80 VDC) has indeed shorted and needs to be replaced.
I've been looking in the usual places for replacements (e-bay, Mouser, Digi-Key etc.) and the choices are rather all over the board in the realm of price, manufacture and country of origin!
So, I'd really like to know what people think about:
1. Reliable manufacturers of capacitors of this size and required function.
2. Any particular points to consider when replacing main filter caps in vintage receivers.
3. Sources for acquiring the caps needed.

Any and all help in this matter would be greatly appreciated.
In the mean-time I'll keep searching AK for things to consider when replacing these soup can sized caps!
(..they're really not THAT big, about: 2.5" w x 3.75" h or 6 cm x 9.5 cm. w/ square, "through board" terminals )
Thanks much,

-MWH-
 
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You'll want something that is 80 VDC or a little above, like 100 VDC to match the voltage coming through. You'll want 22,000 uF or a little more so you've got the same or a little better capacitance.

Searching on Mouser, I would look for:

Aluminum Electrolytic
Mfg or Nichicon, Panasonic or CDE
80 VDC and 100 VDC
Stocked

That gives me a decent-sized list. Then I'd review the capacitance available and choose 22,000 uF (I think that's 0.022 Farad in the list) and the next-up value (0.033 Farad).

Then I'd sort that remaining list by highest ripple current first, then walk down that list until I found one that would fit height and width wise, and something that I was willing to pay.

Nichicon seems to have a few to choose from.
 
Accept different sizes. Examine max height and look at smaller diameter. If held with clamps, fill the clamp with material to allow it to hold the new cap. Mouser and Digikey both will have a number that will work, but that other number might be high if you need something specific. Of the 15 that showed in the search 16-70 bucks. Don't forget to measure the lead spacing. Use metric measurements for easier use of the catalog info.

http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/_/N-75hqtZscv7?P=1z0si9tZ1yztz97Z1yztz9mZ1yztz95Z1yztz8oZ1z0si9nZ1yx4attZ1yx4atu&Ns=Pricing|0
 
dlucy said:
You'll want something that is 80 VDC or a little above, like 100 VDC to match the voltage coming through. You'll want 22,000 uF or a little more so you've got the same or a little better capacitance.
.......
Then I'd sort that remaining list by highest ripple current first, then walk down that list until I found one that would fit height and width wise, and something that I was willing to pay.
Nichicon seems to have a few to choose from.
Click to expand...
***
dlucy:
Thanks for the Mouser walk-through. That's the process that I normally go though for other parts but I wasn't sure if the caps found there were of the quality one would want for higher voltage audio filter caps. I've been reading up on "ripple current" and how it applies to audio circuits. So I was glad to see that that was one of your considerations also. Since I've been buying from Mouser for a while now I'll probably go with them.
Thanks for your input, I appreciate it greatly.
***
 
Blue Shadow said:
Accept different sizes. Examine max height and look at smaller diameter. If held with clamps, fill the clamp with material to allow it to hold the new cap. ... Of the 15 that showed in the search 16-70 bucks. Don't forget to measure the lead spacing.
http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/_/N-75hqtZscv7?P=1z0si9tZ1yztz97Z1yztz9mZ1yztz95Z1yztz8oZ1z0si9nZ1yx4attZ1yx4atu&Ns=Pricing|0
Click to expand...

Blue Shadow:
It's looking like a lot of what Mouser has should fit the existing clamps without too much trouble. Since the original caps are some 30+ years old now the current caps are definitely a bit smaller and I was considering using the "cases" of the originals around the new caps for the sake of keeping it's looks.
I've seen others do this and wondered if it's O.K. to do so with caps of this size. A bit of spacer material at the base inside for the clamps and voila, still looks the same. It seems in life that you get what you pay for, generally, would you say that that's true with 'lytics of this variety? The range of prices for these has been stunning and I wondered what actual differences there are between the "16 and 70" dollar caps outside of the obvious like screw terminals and such.
I don't want to go too cheap but don't want to spend 150 bucks on filter caps either!
Thanks for your advice BShadow, I appreciate it.

MWH
 
mrwasabihead said:
Thanks for the Mouser walk-through. That's the process that I normally go though for other parts but I wasn't sure if the caps found there were of the quality one would want for higher voltage audio filter caps. I've been reading up on "ripple current" and how it applies to audio circuits. So I was glad to see that that was one of your considerations also. Since I've been buying from Mouser for a while now I'll probably go with them.
Click to expand...

Happy to pay AK back a little for all the help I've received.

I started reading through posts here on AK in the Pioneer section as I was recapping and refurbing a Pioneer SX-450. There are a few veteran poster/mentors there and one in particular, Mark The Fixer, has repeated his approach to electrolytic caps and that forms some of my advice above.

He recommends Nichicon and Panasonic as reliable brands (versus many other less-reliable ones). He hates to see people fall for the "audio grade" caps and instead points them to the actual performance characteristics of the caps to match up with what you need most from that cap in the circuit.

Mark's advice for power supply circuits (power supply filter caps, really) is the KW and PW series of caps from Nichicon becuase they have the best (highest) ripple current (most important) and secondly (I believe) the lowest ESR at low frequencies so as to dissipate as little power in the form of heat as possible as the cap tries to store and then deliver the power.

His advice for electrolytic caps in signal-bearing circuits is the KL series of Nichicon caps as they have the lowest leakage. This equates (somehow, don't ask me as I'm a novice) to less noise or quieter signal processing/amplification.

The KL, KW, and PW series don't always have the right cap that I'm looking for, so, in those cases, I take the "high ripple, low ESR" or "lowest possible leakage" advice and peruse the other Nichicon and Panasonic cap series to find something that fits my needs or the unit's limits and does the best job towards Mark's advice.

Good luck! Let us know what you pick and how it goes!
 
there are some 20,000 uf 100V caps, either used from 85 from Hafler DH500 amps, or some what appears to be NOS 24,000uf, 100V Nippon electric (maybe from 2002, unsure of their datecodes) on Ebay. No affiliation, moderate to pricey depending on your tolerance of cost.

Search for hafler DH500 and you'll find them, same with looking for other caps on ebay. Be sure to check your size requirements and your space constraints. These are big.
 
mech986 said:
there are some 20,000 uf 100V caps, either used from 85 from Hafler DH500 amps, or some what appears to be NOS 24,000uf, 100V Nippon electric (maybe from 2002, unsure of their datecodes) on Ebay. No affiliation, moderate to pricey depending on your tolerance of cost. Search for hafler DH500 and you'll find them, same with looking for other caps on ebay. Be sure to check your size requirements and your space constraints. These are big.
Click to expand...

mech986: Please forgive the delay in responding, I've been swamped at work and I've been dealing with medical issues that have kept me hopping.
Thanks for the info. I wondered both if there were any other amps that used caps this big and if there were those who have used pre used filter caps.
There seems to be a big difference of opinion flying around out there regarding the life span of electrolytic caps as well as "recycling" caps of this ilk.
Have you re-used filter caps of this size before? What kind of results or issues have you had?
I'm really just curious and don't think that I'd be apt to reuse large caps from other amps. Not knowing their history, use, etc.. and all.
Never the less I do appreciate your input and will be on the lookout for the caps you've identified; ...just in case :)

-MWH>
 
dlucy said:
Mark The Fixer, .... recommends Nichicon and Panasonic as reliable brands (versus many other less-reliable ones). He hates to see people fall for the "audio grade" caps and instead points them to the actual performance characteristics of the caps to match up with what you need most from that cap in the circuit.
Mark's advice for power supply circuits (power supply filter caps, really) is the KW and PW series of caps from Nichicon because they have the best (highest) ripple current (most important) and secondly (I believe) the lowest ESR at low frequencies so as to dissipate as little power in the form of heat as possible as the cap tries to store and then deliver the power.
His advice for electrolytic caps in signal-bearing circuits is the KL series of Nichicon caps as they have the lowest leakage. This equates (somehow, don't ask me as I'm a novice) to less noise or quieter signal processing/amplification.
The KL, KW, and PW series don't always have the right cap that I'm looking for, so, in those cases, I take the "high ripple, low ESR" or "lowest possible leakage" advice and peruse the other Nichicon and Panasonic cap series to find something that fits my needs or the unit's limits and does the best job towards Mark's advice. Good luck! Let us know what you pick and how it goes!
Click to expand...

Thanks again dlucy, this is great info and I've been aware of the good work that "Mark the fixer", yourself and others have done here on AK.
This is all good info that I will most certainly take to heart. I'm still looking for the caps partially because I've been dealing with health issues since I last
visited AK. They've slowed me down somewhat but I'm plugging along yet ans still. Please forgive the delay in responding to your second post for my benefit.
I do so very much appreciate it. And will further your kind assistance to me to others where I can. That is, of course, how this became the great site that it is.

Regards,
-MWH>
 
I have found that calling Digi Key on the phone and speaking with the techs is much easier than trying to look through hundreds of listings. They connect with the sales staff, and the deal is done with a minimum of aggravation.
 
EchoWars said:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/united-chemi-con/E36D101LPN223TDB7M/565-3301-ND/2095915
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/united-chemi-con/E36D101LPC243UDA5M/565-3679-ND/2096028
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/epcos-tdk/B41456B9229M/495-4228-ND/2269437
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/epcos-tdk/B41458B9229M/495-6355-ND/3547159
Haven't even looked at Mouser yet...I'm sure they have a few more (or more of the same, perhaps at a better price).
Click to expand...

Greetings EchoWars and thank you for the links to the caps. All of which look to be right in the ballpark for the required and preferred specs.
I really appreciate you taking your time to point these out. Work has been a nightmare and I've had no time to work on the Nikko until now.
So please forgive my late reply. I'll be giving DigiKey a call Monday. And thanks again.
-Mark>
 
Roy Skinner said:
I have found that calling Digi Key on the phone and speaking with the techs is much easier than trying to look through hundreds of listings. They connect with the sales staff, and the deal is done with a minimum of aggravation.
Click to expand...

Roy Skinner, thanks for the info. I've only ever dealt with the techs at Mouser but I think I will give DigiKey a call Monday and give 'em a try. The folks at Mouser really are helpful and follow an actual family tradition and all of my dealings with them have been positive. The folks at DigiKey will really have to buck up to beat 'em for customer service! But as I say, Ill give 'em a try!
Thanks again Roy,
-Mark>
 
avionic said:
http://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitor_ele_nichicon_kg.html#18372

Nichicon 73642
Click to expand...
Avionic: thanks for the link to partsconnection! I had forgot all about them. I've ordered from them before but it was a long time ago.
And I had been hoping for "audio centric" parts, if you will, from the start but it seemed like the only ones I came across were from the far east.
Too far, for me!
Please forgive the delay in replying, work has been a real bear. Leaving me no time for the fun stuff!
Thanks again, I really appreciate it.
-Mark>
 
Ronie,
I fixed that receiver a few years ago so forgive me for not remembering which exact parts I used. But I did get them from Mouser. There should be a number of "snap-in" terminal caps that will work and there's a great deal of info online regarding preferred characteristics. There weren't that cheap if I remember correctly but the Nikko is worth it.
Good luck
M
 
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