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Help setting up Linn Keilidh speakers

ivandrocco

New Member
I purchased a set of Linn Keilidh speakers and will pick them up in the next few weeks. There are a variety of ways to set them up, so was hoping to get some insight from the hivemind.

My current set up is a HK Citation 17 Preamp, a modified Hafler XL280 amp, Pres Ibex speakers, and a B&W ASW500 powered sub. I've never had floor standing speakers before, so I jumped on this set of Keilidh for $400 with the kustone bases and Linn wiring.

The Keilidh can be single wired, bi-wired, or bi-amped. There's also a tri-wiring option and an "aktiv" bass conversion I don't really understand, and I think requires a bunch of proprietary Linn equipment.

I have a number of questions about the set up:

1.) Should I just bi-wire these suckers and call it a day?

2.) Should I continue to use the powered sub?

3.) Is it worth seeking out a second XL280 and bi-amping? Do you need all the Linn equipment (aktiv cards, external crossover tunebox etc)?

4.) The Citation 17 reroutes the amplified signal back through the preamp for a speaker selector (A, B, A/B) using a proprietary cable. This cable is rated at 300w. I think I have enough power for both the Keilidh and Ibex without burning out the cable, but the Keilidh are 4ohm speakers. Will connecting all four present too much resistance for the XL280?
 
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Why connect four speakers? Spacing four speakers around the room completely kills the soundstage. It doesn't do the imaging much good either. Stacking them or placing them side by side usually causes other sound problems in addition to what I've already mentioned :dunno:

Burning out the "proprietary" cable is pretty much impossible regardless of the amplifiers power. Power ratings for wires and cables make no sense. I suspect HK is actually referring to the switch itself.

SS amplifiers generally only have problems with low impedance loads. Your Hafler should have no problems driving both pair of speakers.

IME the only speakers that don't/won't benefit from the addition of a subwoofer (2 is better) are very large, rather expensive and more often than not include their own powered subwoofers.
 
Burning out the "proprietary" cable is pretty much impossible regardless of the amplifiers power. Power ratings for wires and cables make no sense. I suspect HK is actually referring to the switch itself.

I’d tend to agree but HK specifically says “if the the cable is used” in the literature. Could implicitly refer to the switch, who knows. If you use one you are using the other.
 
I'm pretty sure it refers to the switch. Switch contacts have a VA (volt/amp) rating. Even 18 gauge lamp cord can easily carry 300 watts.
 
Activ for the Linn is the best as there is a DSP system that can be used as the front end. The Active uses all Linn components.

I just sold a set of Linn Tukans, that were set for bi-wiring one amp one wire, 2 amps - one speaker - 2 wires one speaker - all sounded the same.

NO to 4 speakers - these Linns are 4 ohm.

Surprised bi-amping didn't make any difference. Guess you have to go full Active to get the benefit?

Regarding ohms, how do you calculate total resistance of two sets of speakers?
 
Depends most Receivers/amps which have 2 sets are set up Parallel so if 2 sets of speakers are 8 ohm, the load on the amp will be 4 ohm. If they are serial connections then 2 sets of 8 ohm speakers will give you 16 ohm and you will need to turn up the volume.


The issue you have is the speakers will be playing at different volumes since they are different loads and efficiencies.

What's unusual here is the amplifier has only one set of speaker outs. Those run back to the HK preamp, which has two sets of speaker outs and a selector. I'm assuming they are wired in parallel, not series. I understand that 2 set of 8 ohm speakers presents 4 ohms, and two sets of 4 ohm speakers presents 2 ohms, but what about a set of 8 ohm and a set of 4 ohm... 3 ohms total?
 
I read elsewhere that bass response is most improved by going Active. Here's what the spec sheet states:

Keilidh:
45Hz-20kHz +/- 3dB (Active)
65Hz-20kHz +/- 3dB (Passive)



Powered sub should help mask the passive set up. The B&W asw500 is 32Hz-80Hz. Can't wait to hear these suckers.
 
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Facebook marketplace is an embarrassment of riches for speakers… since I bought the Linns I’ve seen:

DCM timeframes - $250
Triangle Celius 202 - $200
Kef C95 - $100

Did I make the right choice?
 
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