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Help with Dual 1218

zr1gary

zr1gary

Well-Known Member
I just bought a Dual 1218 and need some help figuring out why the 'auto-shutoff' will not work.:no:

I have let it cycle through with the tonearm locked, so it would/should set the right start point.

I have a manul for the 1219...not sure it is the same as 1218?

Anyway, I thought I got all old grease out and re-lubed all....but????

I have attached pics....any help would really be appreciated.:yes:

http://picasaweb.google.com/zr1gary/Dual1219#
 
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Redoing Duals is not for the faint of heart. It can be done, but be ready for getting deep. The symptoms you're having (most likely) is caused by the trip pawl not being damped.. The trip pawl is located on top of the yellow plastic gear (underneath). Duals get gummy. It seems like of European lubricants turn into epoxy after awhile. The play lever gets gummy, the cue "foot" wears, often the arm needs to come off. Take lots of pictures before you take stuff apart. Go slow, absorb how the thing came apart. It can be done, but experience is VERY valuable here.
 
You know, you might be able to get this one from the top. It's better to fully dismantle but this would be much safer if unfamiliar.

Remove the center spindle. You'll see a small "keeper" ring that holds the platter to the platter bearing. Remove the ring. Pull up the platter and remove it. When you move the tonearm over the platter, it turns on the motor. You see that the platter has gear teeth on it. Those gear teeth engage the gear below. When the ubnderneath gear turns, it moves the arm, raises the cueing etc. until the gear gets to a sopt where some teeth are missing. That is the area that you see something that pushes a thing called a trip pawl into the platters teeth, enaging the bottom gear. Think about and watch how it works. There'll be a mechanical adter for that. I think an ecentric adjuster. BUT, what you might want to try first is to put a TINY bit of damping fluid on where the trip pawl slides on the camgear. What this will do is give a little stiction on the trip pawl and allow it to push into the platter gear teeth. That trips it into it's automatic functions. ....lift, return, set down. Good luck. They are great tables.
 
I found two obvious problems....

1) The switch arm assembly is not moving, during cycle.

2) The switch slide inside the switch assembly was not moving...I fixed it.

But...still can't seem to see why the switch arm is not moving as it should to engage/disengage the switch slide ????? Which is why the motor is not shutting off.
 
Can you take a picture and post it? The underside where the arm camgear all are? That would help and refresh my memory. There's lots of little tricks with Duals
 
I have looked at the darn thing 'til my eyes water...and also looking at the user manual (1219)...but should be the same?

Cannot figure out what really is supposed to be pushing the switch arm assembly forward/backward to activate/deactivate the switch?

When I push/pull the assembly it will turn the switch on and off....so??

Somebody here must have seen the same problem???
 
The motor is not shutting off because lubricants have changed into bubble gum.

This can affect two portions of the set, both of which are implicated in turning the motor on and off. The first in the speed-selector assembly. This interfaces with the large lever that turns the motor on and off. If the speed selector gets gummed up, it impedes the free movement of the motor on/off lever.

Secondly, the long motor on/off lever also interfaces with the cycling cam. For this to work, it needs to move back and forth on a pivot bearing located near the cam. The pivot bearing VERY often gets sticky.

Fred
 
Fred,

I cleaned out all the 'bubble gum' I could easily get at...BUT knowing your reputation I will follow your advice and re-clean, focusing on those areas.

Thanks!
 
I take the speed selector assembly apart, and then clean it in a little ultrasonic tank. I clean the long on/off lever pivot bearing with alcohol and a cotton swab. Both mechanisms are somewhat difficult to take apart, so proceed cautiously and be willing to make a diagram.

All I use to relube them after cleaning is light machine oil.

Fred
 
Fred, Thanks...
I'll try your approach!
Can't do anything for a few days....
but will post results asap.
 
Thanks

Well, after lots of cleaning and 'Gum extraction'...it works.

Plays great single or stacked...

Started off a bit slow and jerky, but smoothed out nicely after playing a couple of hours.

You guys are great!!!!:banana:

My thanks again.
 
My 1019 seemed resistant to a clean and lube. The arm would not return at records end. Did not want to over lube, so I lived with it. One evening about two months later it worked ! Been running like a champ for 3 years or more since then.
 
dual 1019 sk2

i need a manual for this thing. Tone arm raising lever is stuck in the up position!!! I need instruction to get the silicone piston out.I am a total newb on T.T. repair.
 
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