Help with my Realistic Setup
- Thread starter jukeboxhero1
- Start date
polypetalous
Super Member
The "D" models only add Dolby Sound for the radio, which isn't used anymore...
The 2100D also uses a more standard power transformer vs the 2100 torodial... not sure the transformer change would make a "sound difference" but does make the non-D STA-2100 more "desirable."
IF you had a STA-2100, you wouldn't need the tm-1001, and the sa-2001 etc. But again, there's nothing wrong with separates and "power wise" how many watts do you really need? I have 75-watts, which far out powers my Nova 7b speakers, but then again I probably only use the first 5-10 watts.
All comes down to personal choice, taste, likes, budget and intended use.
Ben
The 2100D also uses a more standard power transformer vs the 2100 torodial... not sure the transformer change would make a "sound difference" but does make the non-D STA-2100 more "desirable."
IF you had a STA-2100, you wouldn't need the tm-1001, and the sa-2001 etc. But again, there's nothing wrong with separates and "power wise" how many watts do you really need? I have 75-watts, which far out powers my Nova 7b speakers, but then again I probably only use the first 5-10 watts.
All comes down to personal choice, taste, likes, budget and intended use.
Ben
jukeboxhero1
Member
Ah that would do it lol then again thats a very radio shack thing to do. Aka the tandy 1000 just being a straight clone of the pc junior...
jukeboxhero1
Member
So I think the benifit to liking rat shack stuff is that even their best isnt really to expensive. Its why I wanted to try and design the best possible realistic system I can. It'll hold me over till i spend time and effort to get back into tube amps and all the fun stuff again. Plus im just radioshack crazy always have been. Now does the tm-1001 and sa-2001 come close to the 2100 or not even close? I only ask because while i love the look of the 2100 im bizarre in liking having as many things stacked as I can. thanks for your help so far.
polypetalous
Super Member
Again, it really is what YOU want/like...
but I "think" for the price of a 2100, you could have a real pretty stack of Realistic gear that sounds good and also seems like it would make you happy.
You are right though, Realistic gear is often under-valued compared to other more well known brands "of the day," that said prices have continually risen on Realistic gear. The "rat shack" hate is not nearly as pervasive as it once was.
Ben
jukeboxhero1
Member
So I guess to recap for myself:
If I get a sta-2100, it replaces my tm-1001/sa2001.
The tm-1001 and sa-2001 are still a very good combo.
My new revised questions are now:
1. I still need a tapedeck and eq what are the best ones rat shack ever made( wood grain if possible). If I'm buying the 2100 i wanna keep the trend of buying the best.
2. If I were to want to keep with the separates theme vs buying a sta-2100 what were the best tuner and amp seperates that rat shack made?
3. When getting additons to my stack is there anything realistic made that I'm missing. My assumption is tuner, amp, tape, eq, 8 track are what I know you can get. What am I missing?
Thanks guys I'm sure I'll keep asking more this day is only getting started.
goodolpg
Just an old fart trying to help.
As mentioned the 2100 is more highly desired, possibly because of the toroidal transformer. Dolby FM died long ago so the Dolby option is pretty much useless on the 2100D .It does change the apparent tone but it does not do what it was actually designed to do. The "D" also has a "standard" non toroidal transformer as well.
The 2100D can be bought for less, though many sellers don't know the difference between the 2 models and attempt to charge top dollar for the non D model because they think they are the same.
Are you trying to get a good RS receiver with walnut sides as long as it is a classic model, or do you want one from the same time period as the rest of your RS gear.
Maybe you can get both, I'm not all that familiar with the RS lineups through the years.
JMO but buying a 2100 (either D or non D) and then adding separates doesn't make much sense. I'm assuming you'd again want period correct and that will limit options and not sure if RS made separates of the same quality as the 2100 receivers.
The 2100D can be bought for less, though many sellers don't know the difference between the 2 models and attempt to charge top dollar for the non D model because they think they are the same.
Are you trying to get a good RS receiver with walnut sides as long as it is a classic model, or do you want one from the same time period as the rest of your RS gear.
Maybe you can get both, I'm not all that familiar with the RS lineups through the years.
JMO but buying a 2100 (either D or non D) and then adding separates doesn't make much sense. I'm assuming you'd again want period correct and that will limit options and not sure if RS made separates of the same quality as the 2100 receivers.
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polypetalous
Super Member
Not to confuse, easy to do... BUT the STA-2100 NON D is the more desirable with the toroidial transformer while the 2100D is less-desirable without toroidial transformer but with Dolby FM (not used anymore).
Both are powerhouses, but the non-D is the more "desirable."
Ben
jukeboxhero1
Member
Got yah so while I keep an eye out for a sta-2100 I do wanna complete my separates stack that I already started work on. Is the tm-1001 their best tuner? Also I've been reading that I should prob get a separate power amp since the sa-2001 has an option to disable its integrated stuff and work as the pre amp. is that correct?
jukeboxhero1
Member
So I'm not exactly looking for the same era as what I have, I just got the stuff i have cause i wanted the lab-500 as its the endgame for rs stuff as far as I can tell and the guy threw the rest in the deal. I just prefer the wood grain and or steel look. I'm really not a fan of say how my sta-2700 looks, that 80's plastic or black metal doesnt do it for me. Currently where I stand after all this help is I'm keeping my eye out for a sta-2100 but I still wanna build a full rs stack of seperates. I'm not tied to what I have I just thought the tm-1001 was a good high end start to base off of, if there is a better tuner and amps combo i'm all for it. Really the only limits are must be radioshack and not 80's design.
polypetalous
Super Member
I don't have any real experience with Realistic separates or any separates, to be honest... I'm just a "receiver guy," you know more lights, knobs, switches in one unit the better IMO.
I wouldn't think you'd need a power amp, if the integrated has all the features you need. .. but again do you want to fulfill needs only OR create the biggest stack... either way is just a personal preference.
Ben
jukeboxhero1
Member
Basically the latter, lol do I need and or will I ever understand it all prob not I just like giant stacks of woodgrain.
polypetalous
Super Member
Double post here, but...
as for the LAB-500 being "end game"...
kind of...
Some say the LAB-400 is technical a better performing table with more flexibility (ie easier to upgrade cartridges).
Also, there was a Canada ONLY Realistic turntable LAB-8500 that "may have" been higher end than the LAB-500.
I love my LAB-500, BUT the biggest drawback is the arm... being that the arm is designed for the integrated headshell/cart (shure M95 based), the arm can only handle LOW mass cart/headshell combos making it difficult to upgrade to certain (a lot of) cartridges... just not enough counterweight.
Just food for thought.
Ben
jukeboxhero1
Member
Fair, and when I bought my lab-500 i had been looking for a 400, but tbh unless a 400 fell in my lap I'm happy with the 500 being my rs end game. If I were to pay the current prices of restored lab-400's i might as well take that money and jump off into high end companies. Got my lab-600, tm-1001, 31-1987 eq, and sct-20 tape deck for 210. now everything needs work but the lab-500 i think just needs a new needle. Still thats a good price for the core items and leaves room to have a shop fix them
polypetalous
Super Member
So I assume your LAB-500 still has the integrated Cart/Headshell, the R9000E-LWS?
If so, I HIGHLY recommend you go for an upgraded stylus: HE, Line Contact, SAS type...
I personally use (recommend): https://www.lpgear.com/product/SHN095HEL.html
the ultimate would be: https://www.lpgear.com/product/e007429SAS.html
There are cheaper generic N95 needles out there ($15) but trust me they don't sound good on the LAB-500.
Ben
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jukeboxhero1
Member
Your first link seems broken
So the cart seems fine just the stylus was broken, I bought a nos one in the box but turns out the guy was a dinkus and never looked to see if it was broken. Got my money back but uh now I have 2 carts/headshells but no stylus was just gonna get the replacement from lpgear i think its like 45 bucks. Is that the one your recommending?
polypetalous
Super Member
Your first link seems broken
Fixed link, but here it is again: https://www.lpgear.com/product/SHN095HEL.html
This is the line contact stylus $97... the $45 one is better than an ebay generic, but I can't say enough good things about the Line Contact LP Gear stylus.
Its twice the cost at $97, but IF you have decent records its worth the spend, imo.
user @johnjhazel is a needle expert and could probably better recommend choices.
Ben
jukeboxhero1
Member
That makes sense, might just grab the cheaper one to start. I need to make sure the turntable plays as well as it looks.
jukeboxhero1
Member
Lol darn looks like ebay and fb market place are bone dry for sa-2001's or a sta-2100.