Help With Restoring a Fisher Statesman? What is the OEM Turntable?

[Craig TD]

I stumbled into this via the purchase of a Fisher Statesman last weekend. It's the same model as indicated in this post.

The tuner and electronics are working great, the turntable and cassette deck need help. I'm starting with the turntable because we've got a Go-Go's album that needs to spin again...

My Question: Does anyone happen to know what the original turntable was for the Statesman?

The purchase came with manuals and I've got a Fisher 401 turntable manual so I'm wanting to think that's the original. What I have in the console is a BSR turntable. It does not show a model number (and I've avoided the screws so far so I don't know what's under yet).

Before I start investing time and money into this I'm hoping to understand what it came with. Then I can face down the choice of either restoring it to the original state, or repairing the BSR (under the presumption that it was some kind of upgrade).

Any tips or pointers would be fantastic. I'm a total novice here so it's OK to talk at me like I have no idea what I'm doing. Thanks!

 

[larryderouin]

What's the model # of the console? (Look for a large paper sheet on the back with model info, or if you have the owners manual look there. It could be a S-694, . The S-694 had a "FISHER AUTOMATIC Turntable, which is the FISHER 401. IIRC it's a P.E. model. However, a BSR replacement wouldn't be out of the realm of things, as they were cheap and plentiful. I would install a DUAL 1009 or a ELAC Miracord 10H or 50H for the time being as 1.) that BSR is likely to be seized up on the spindle(this was very common with most of them from the early 70's and not worth repairing, and 2.) the FISHER 401 is very rare. The receiver is either a 250-T or 400-T console variant. If the output transistors are TO-3's it's a 400-T, if TO-220 it's a 250-T.

 

[Craig TD]

Double post, sorry

 

[Craig TD]

S-694, Here's a shot of that back label:

...and a link to imgur for a few more: http://imgur.com/a/gbLNo

Forgive my ignorance but what do you mean by a P.E. model?

Similarly, this went over my head:

"The receiver is either a 250-T or 400-T console variant. If the output transistors are TO-3's it's a 400-T, if TO-220 it's a 250-T."

I'm sure I can sort out which one, but what is the relevance? Does that (the receiver) limit which turntables I can put in it?

Thank you for your solid response full of details. I'm just getting started so there's a lot for me to learn, but this is pretty exciting for me!

 

[Sam Cogley]

Every once in a while an ELAC 10F pops up for sale. Standard (non-hysteresis) motor model 10 with Fisher branding.

 

[larryderouin]

S-694, Here's a shot of that back label:

...and a link to imgur for a few more: http://imgur.com/a/gbLNo

Forgive my ignorance but what do you mean by a P.E. model?

Similarly, this went over my head:

"The receiver is either a 250-T or 400-T console variant. If the output transistors are TO-3's it's a 400-T, if TO-220 it's a 250-T."

I'm sure I can sort out which one, but what is the relevance? Does that (the receiver) limit which turntables I can put in it?

Thank you for your solid response full of details. I'm just getting started so there's a lot for me to learn, but this is pretty exciting for me!

P.E. model refers to Perpetuum Ebner who made the turntable. It's a GERMAN brand, which was bought up by DUAL shortly afterwards in the early 70's. The Fisher 401b changer is a Perpetuum-Ebner 2038. Very complex turntable, not for a beginner to try and restore. I would suggest a turntable shop.

"The receiver is.............." for future reference in case you need a Service manual. The 24-R chassis is a 250-T receiver without the top cover and heatsink changes to fit the console. Has no bearing on what changer you install on it. Fisher took their receiver line, removed the top, changed the heatsink in most cases, and sometimes added an additional switch on the selector knob shaft to allow automatic shut off when the turntable shut down and a molex plug to power the turntable.

Unfortunately we haven't gotten to 1969 on the FISHERCONSOLES.com site. However there is documentation out there in that we can identify most if not all of the 1968 and 1969 models

Service Manual for the PE 2038 here.......... http://akdatabase.org/AKview/albums/userpics/10007/PE 2040 Service Manual.pdf

Service Manual for the 250-T (24-R) here....http://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/fisher/250-t.shtml There is free registration on hifiengine site.

 

[Craig TD]

Ahhh, thank you both for the feedback!

What I'm thinking is that I'll see if I can get the BSR turntable working (the needle fell out and it's spinning slow), and then sort out if I really want to do a restoration to the original, or if I'm happy enough. Slow, deliberate steps. Plus, if I screw up and break the BSR while learning... well it's already not working so my expectations are OK with that

 

[Craig TD]

However, a BSR replacement wouldn't be out of the realm of things, as they were cheap and plentiful. I would install a DUAL 1009 or a ELAC Miracord 10H or 50H for the time being as 1.) that BSR is likely to be seized up on the spindle(this was very common with most of them from the early 70's and not worth repairing,

Man, you nailed it! I just cleaned and lubed the BSR and... yeah that and the needle sound terrible. Time to go hunting for something that'll play better.

In the process of the cleaning I lifted the BSR up/off the console and it definitely had something else mounted before. I'm guessing that if it did have the original Fisher 401 in it someone knew and swapped them out for the $. That makes it easy enough for me to view this console as something to make good vs. restoring for perfect authenticity. The tuner/speakers are great, time to get a turntable that's great vs. worrying about perfect vintage replacement (though if I stumble into a rare 401 I'm going in on it).

Thank you again!