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Hh scott score?

A

Analoglodite

New Member
Hi

I'm new here, so excuse if I happen to breach etiquette. Got this set from an estate sale for 100$ with the intention of having it be my first hifi resto. I've only done two organ donor conversions so I'm pretty noobish.
I want to dig in, but found this gear listed for a ton o cash on ebay, and I am wondering if I should just pay for a professional resto instead of potentially killing a possible gem with my unrefined tech skills.
Power amp is an hh scott lk-150
Preamp is a lc-21.
Goin on e*ay for 4300.
I realize that the lister is shooting for the moon, but wanna make sure that I'm not taking a crap in the holy grail.

20160906_204257

20160906_204257

Lc-21
20160906_204227

20160906_204227

Lk-150

Whatchall think?
 
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Asking $4300 and "goin for" are two completely different things.

Looks like at least 2 of the power tubes have lost vacuum.

Pay a pro and enjoy!
 
The one whole channel looks like it has issues. The predriver tube is fried also. I'd take it in. Probably has serious issues on that one channel and I bet the PO was well aware of it. Still you bought it quite well.

Not to be a smart ass but going for $4300 means nothing. People ask ridiculous prices for stuff all the time. Go to closed auctions and look at the average of what the same items have sold for. That will give you an average ebay selling price. Asking price means absolutely nothing.
 
Yea. I was kinda lookin for a project tho. And I'm poor enough that I'm willing to pay a pro if I can make some significant cash post resto. but for a less substansial return, I'd rather fix it myself and own it.
I understand that dude isn't getting his 4300.
Is this gear desireable enough that I shouldn't use it as an experiment? I bought it knowing that channel A had issues. Tubes were cracked when I got it. Channel B works like a champ tho. Should I try to fix it and risk killing the pt or ot with my noobish skills?? Or would I be able to make some cash having a pro fix it and broom? Personally I'd rather fix and keep but I'd hate to F up and kill an opportunity to make a significant dollar.
 
Whether you flip it, or keep it, these deserve an experienced eye. They aren't the 4300 diamonds, but they could be a solid 2500 emerald. Not for a rookie to cut his eye teeth on.
 
Thanks for the opinions new friends. I will send inquiries to my local vintage audio techs, and let you know what they have to say. I'm just outside of ann arbor, so there should be plenty local experts within range.
 
The power amp is not terribly complicated. If you can solder, use a DMM, read schematics, have access to a tube tester, and are able to work in a methodical, safe manner (tube amps generate voltages that can kill you), it shouldn't really be much more of a challenge than a console-pull amp; it's just bigger and heavier.

What's it look like underneath? Anything fried looking on the side that has the bad tubes?
 
If you rebuilt the organ amps, this shouldn't be much different.As long as you are careful, and don't modify the chassis you should be able to rebuild them yourself,as was already said, all of the white tubes have lost their vacuum and are shot.you should have a dim bulb and variac before you try to bring them up.Check they have proper fuses.
 
I have a variac that I have used to test thus far that I stole from a broken avr. Guess theres no harm in testing some pin voltages And comparing channels. Bias is visibly different between the two based on bias adjustment screws. Any suggestions?
Do I need to hook up speakers if tubes are removed? Should I even power up with tubes removed? (Already did) I just don't wanna kill xfmrs. Tubes are fng expensive too. But replaceable. Xfmrs are more expensive than a couple of repro 6550s.
Working on something of value is more stressful than a basket case organ amp as it turns out.
 
The schematic for the LK-150 went through several revisions. I've posted a re-drawn version in one of my threads regarding the restoration that fine amplifier.

The lost vacuum in the tubes in the channel on the left isn't necessarily indicative of an electrical problem in that channel. Looks like those tubes took some sort of a shock that broke the seal.
 
You shouldn't run it up to full voltage without output tubes in it, some of the caps will see higher than their rated voltage without the load. For teating without output tubes keep the varaic turned down to 80-90v for testing basic function
 
+1 on the advice you got here,,, if one channel is working, I'd pull all the tubes except the rectifier (or is it SS?), and match pin readings from side to side,,, make sure you keep the voltage well with in range of the caps, as was previously mentioned... Schematics are helpful, but may not match the chassis exactly...
It should be a simple matter of replacing the old PS, and coupling caps and matching all the resistors, and replace diodes, if it is SS... if you want to work on it yourself...
Nice gear, good luck with it...
 
+1 to what John said, at least for the LK150. Usually it's just a matter of replacing old electrolytic caps and coupling caps to get things going. And the PS should be working, if you already have one working channel. A visual check should show if there is anything obviously amiss on the other side. It could just have been that the tubes on one side got knocked and cracked, but such a bump might have affected the wiring too.

I suggest read the other LK150 threads here just for some orientation. This one has the schematic: http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/scott-lk-150-rebuild-modification-thread.636738/.
No need to do any mods yet, but it's helpful to do some study before you do any work.

After a careful visual check and a check that you have the right fuse, put some new tubes in it and power up with a dim bulb tester. The latter will warn you quickly of any shorts in the problem channel.
 
Dandy said:
+1 to what John said, at least for the LK150. Usually it's just a matter of replacing old electrolytic caps and coupling caps to get things going. And the PS should be working, if you already have one working channel. A visual check should show if there is anything obviously amiss on the other side. It could just have been that the tubes on one side got knocked and cracked, but such a bump might have affected the wiring too.

I suggest read the other LK150 threads here just for some orientation. This one has the schematic: http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/scott-lk-150-rebuild-modification-thread.636738/.
No need to do any mods yet, but it's helpful to do some study before you do any work.

After a careful visual check and a check that you have the right fuse, put some new tubes in it and power up with a dim bulb tester. The latter will warn you quickly of any shorts in the problem channel.
Click to expand...

The last post in there has my corrected re-draw of the Nov. 1962 schematic. It should be fully accurate, and was HH Scott's final revision to the circuit that I'm aware of.
 
Yall have talked me into it. I'm just gonna get my hands dirty. I talked to the local tech, and he was cool, but I'm thinking it's going to cost me dearly.
So first steps. Order some tubes and clean this beast up. Any suggestions on 6550s. I've got a local tube wholesaler that has NOS svetlanas for 50$ or tung sol reissues matched from any online tube spot for 35$ish. The oem tubes are too expensive for me. Or kt88s.
Also, cleaning tips? I've heard good and bad of deoxit for jacks and sockets. Any good alternatives?
 
Good news. The fact that Sam C has got the corrected schematic for you, plus lots of experience with the the LK150 as detailed in his two threads, should be reassuring. You might want to start a new thread marked 'Scott LK150 rebuild' so people can follow your work and/or learn from it later.
 
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