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HOLY #^&@ Lab 80

JHS2RT

and Miss Sasha
Subscriber
A supposedely new in box Garrard Lab 80 just sold on the bay for $355.00.
I have a Lab 80 and love it but there is no way I would pay that much.
Wait until the buyer discovers the grease is rock hard and needs a full rebuild.
I wish him luck finding someone to rebuild it. They are tempermental and complex. (The late Joel Thorner rebuilt mine and it is a charm).
I hope an AKer didn't buy it.:scratch2:
James
 
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I was gonna make a comment about the buyer having more money than brains, but that's not very nice.

What would be interesting would be to ask the buyer why he willingly spent so much. Sentimental issues? Memories? New to online product reviews or searches? :D

Tom
 
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I saw that too and was amazed. I have been watching the prices on Ebay lately. Today a Rek-O-Kut Rondine Deluxe with hysteresis motor sold for just over $500.00. An in the box Garrard from 60's would probably be a disappointment. It's funny, I bought a really nice Lab 80 3 weeks ago on Ebay for 51 dollars. It is my winter project mainly because I like old Garrards, it's idler drive, and I think it would be a real challenge. I just bought my parts Lab 80, in case I need something, for 45 dollars on Ebay. So don't worry, Lab 80's are still right where you would want them to be price wise.
 
That's insane for a Lab 80, even one NIB IMO. :no:

I bought a really nice Lab 80 3 weeks ago on Ebay for 51 dollars.

I've got at least two Lab 80's in storage with the funky dust covers and $50.00 was all I paid.

Epay's a strange place at times. If the seller had placed $355.00 starting price no one would have ever bid on it, but let it go into a pis^ing contest auction and the skys the limit.

I'm happy for the seller and sad for buyer :nono:
 
I think Rube Goldberg designed the 70's Garrards.

actually a dysfunctional British cousin of Rube's... possibly a former Lucas employee.

I found a nice LAB-80 at the dump some years back. Fiddled with it a time or two, finally passing it on to Charles King.

Also a LAB-95 (edit: SL-95... duh) which was galled up. AKer Nat may or may not still have that one.

These aren't anything to write home about (even for free)...
 
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I posted awhile back that a Garrard Type A sold for just under $500....over that amount when you factor in the shipping. It was a very nice example and claimed to be in fully functional condition and included all the accessories, but without the original shipping carton.
Sentimental value might be having an influence on the high prices that some of these Garrards are currently bringing. Realistically, they are worth far less, even when factoring in the cost of a full restoration. All it takes is a bidding war between two individuals that are hot to own the item, and the price goes thru the ceiling. I just hope the seller actually gets paid and the winner doesn't bail after experiencing buyers remorse. I've heard this happening alot lately from disgruntled sellers, now that you can't leave negative feedback to deadbeat winning bidders.
 
Note to self: time to dig all of the Garrards out of the closet & put up on Ebay...

Almost embarassed to say I own 5 Garrards - 2 Lab 80's, 2 SL-65's & 1 SL-95. :tears:
 
I think Rube Goldberg designed the 70's Garrards.
actually a dysfunctional British cousin of Rube's... possibly a former Lucas employee.

Way to true, although I will add that the 60's garrards are what you are talking about. I need to work on my type A (runs pretty well now, though) and i've been putting it off because one look at the bottom is a mechanical nightmare. I recall there being a topic (by redboy...I think) where he took out the automatic section of a garrard, but left the manual...that got rid of a good 50-75% of the clutter under the table. The fact that they operate as well as they do is somewhat amazing.

I posted awhile back that a Garrard Type A sold for just under $500....over that amount when you factor in the shipping. It was a very nice example and claimed to be in fully functional condition and included all the accessories, but without the original shipping carton.

Man, I thought I paid a little too much for my '62 garrard type A in good condition, And I "only" paid around $114 or so...Yes, I know not a deal, probably paid too much, But it was at a local resale shop that I frequent, and had set on the shelf for around 6 months or so...and I loved it the first time I saw it, but didn't have the money. Then again, From the same shop I got a Zenith 3G turntable w/built in amp (needs a little work) from 1968 for only $5...because I liked the styling (illuminated knobs are awesome!). Either way, the price to me was fair, but I don't think $500 is reasonable at all.
 
I think I paid about $25 for my Type A from a local Resale/Pawn shop 3 years ago. It came with both short and long spindles and the original owners manual. An added bonus was that it had a Shure M3D cartridge mounted, altho the original stylus was just about shot.
The original rubber mat had become petrified over the years and it broke into pieces when I tried to remove it. I was lucky to find a nice pliable like new replacement online. It sits on top of 2 cork mats that are over 6mm thick. As I only use it manually, I wanted to raise the level of the platter so that the arm would be as parallel as possible.
The auto function on mine still is a bit quirky. Instead of attemting a full disassembly and lube, I oiled the mechanisms the best I could and tried the idler refurbishing methods (not a re-build as of yet) only to have the same stopping in mid cycle occur. Oh well.....I haven't really stacked LPs, even on my Dad's original Type A since 1965! So strictly manual it is!
Btw....if you look in the manual, there's a section on adjusting the arm lift with a screw found under the inner platter. I found if you turn it all the way in one direction, the arm will play out to the final groove in the run out and not attempt to lift and return. This keeps the table running and operating in true manual operation. I use this method with my Type A. It's a quick fix if you want it to perform strctly manual without any removal of the mechanisms underneath.
 
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