c.coyle
Fighting the Dunning-Kruger effect.
I have a Nikko TRM-750 integrated amp. There is a 560/2W (R761) resistor right next to the speaker relay that gets too hot to touch, and the relay itself ends up very warm, but not hot, after 30 minutes. It looks like this resistor brute force drops the B+ down to 24V for the coil. It is only dissipating 800mw.
I installed a new relay yesterday, and never noticed whether the original was also getting warm, but I suspect it was. Now that I think about it, the original relay's clear housing was discolored yellow, suggesting heat.
I am going to check all resistors in the relay circuit and change all associated caps, transistors, and diodes. Maybe up the wattage of the hot resistor. But I'm betting that resistor still gets hot, and the only thing to do, other than moving the resistor "further up the line" or adding some sort of regulator, will be raising it further off the board and away from the relay.
This seems like something that I shouldn't lose sleep over. A relay is just a bunch of metal, and unless the heat is so severe as to warp the contacts, a little heat shouldn't affect operation.
Anybody disagree?
I installed a new relay yesterday, and never noticed whether the original was also getting warm, but I suspect it was. Now that I think about it, the original relay's clear housing was discolored yellow, suggesting heat.
I am going to check all resistors in the relay circuit and change all associated caps, transistors, and diodes. Maybe up the wattage of the hot resistor. But I'm betting that resistor still gets hot, and the only thing to do, other than moving the resistor "further up the line" or adding some sort of regulator, will be raising it further off the board and away from the relay.
This seems like something that I shouldn't lose sleep over. A relay is just a bunch of metal, and unless the heat is so severe as to warp the contacts, a little heat shouldn't affect operation.
Anybody disagree?
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