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How to clean stains from faceplate?

C

C0deXeus

Active Member
Yamaha ca-800 I own has a faceplate with few stains and watermarks which I tried very hard to clean but couldn't. Yesterday a bottle of turpentine leaked onto it and the fonts didn't go off. I think it's a piece of anodized metal. Will autosol metal polish do the cleaning job besides polishing? Or any other stronger chemicals. It has a 2 light scratches but I will ignore it. De-anodize and sandpaper it won't be cheap I guess.
 
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I've had some success with a MAGIC ERASER on faceplates. I use it dry without any liquid. It'll leave dust from the eraser which can be cleaned up with a soft cloth and window cleaner.
 
I've had good luck with Brasso and what I assume were water spots that nothing else I had tried would touch. Like any product, don't assume it wont have an effect on the lettering, so use at your own risk.
 
It's impossible for any of us to know exactly what kinds of conditions happen to create discoloration on someone else's faceplates (for sure), so can only describe the variations I've found? Some of it is common understanding mostly but still puting it out there.

All faceplates have an anodized finish that varies in color and depending on manufacturer, strength of lettering on top varies (mainly due to bond variations and level of resistance to oils over time).
What we generally think of as water marks are generally actually breaks in the oxidation coating. (Not that hard water stains can't exist, it's just that they don't happen often in my experience.) Once broken through there is no real way to replace it but? Thankfully confusing the eye using a sealer of some kind can at times make them go away, almost go away completely, or minimize greatly. Another way is to polish gently using "smart use" of Magic Erasers and extremely gentle abrasive compounds. (I do this at times but typically a thorough cleaning with soap, hot water, toothbrush, micro fiber cloth, and a wipe down with a wax or sealer blends things beautifully.) The mild abrasive method helps with light abrasions that just "ride" the top of the high points in the brushed under surface, and on the right existing condition? It can be everything you want, but less is better and push it keeping this in mind (because of that thin anodized color).

All kinds of good waxes and things that lightly seal. (My favorite is Stainless Magic as it leaves a film that can really hide breaks in the anodized film and haven't found it's "light oiliness" to eat at any oil compromised lettering.)

This is what I've found (for myself) and maybe it'll help.
 
I used some car paint restoring polish to get rid of some watermark blotches that where on the face plate of my Pioneer SX-5560. Works pretty well though your mileage may vary.
 
I like the Magic Erasers too.
Very mild abrasive.
I would not expect paint to hold up under a hard scrubbing.
 
I used autosol metal polish and it worked. In another case, I used it on nakamichi CD2 and the black paint came off from faceplate...
 
The best way I've found to get rid of smoke stains is to use baking soda. Make a paste of baking soda and water and then just rub it on the knob, faceplate, etc, then rinse.

It works perfectly and doesn't etch or remove the silk screened lettering.

I've also tried dishwasher detergent, magic eraser, alcohol, etc. Nothing worked as well as the baking soda paste.
 
Try Magic Eraser ... soak the knobs and face plate in the bathtub with dishwasher soap for about 30 mins... then use the eraser. I have done used this process on just about every unit that I cleaned...
 
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