How to clean these switches?

[Catmanboo]

As previously mentioned, hold unit so switches are vertical, get ya some plastic-safe contact cleaner spray with the red straw, squirt in from top while working the switch, keeping top components dry, although the shiite dries fast so may not be a concern.
That assembly not that dirty, considering some of what I've encountered in the past. You sure you want to go there?

 

[lgdavis]

Iso alcohol? Doexit? Contact cleaner? Dawn dish soap? Such a mess.

CorrosionX.
I've been using this as a contact cleaner for several years and like it much better than DeOxit.

Amazon.com

Stand the board up vertically, and put some of the CorrosionX on the end of a small screwdriver, so you can put it into the switches a drop at a time.
(The spray can be messy)
Flow several drops into the switches, let it stand awhile, then excersize them.
You'll be amazed at how smooth they feel, and it will keep your contacts working for a long time.
Great stuff...

 

[waggs098]

I have decided I will not remove parts from the switches. I may remove the board then remove the switches from the board to get things cleaner. I will not get the caps or coils wet with anything. I don't have the tools to do a realignment but I'm also sure this tuner isn't perfect anyways.

 

[waggs098]

Are those Mica trimming capacitors in between the coils? If so, I would be careful about getting anything inside them. If you are going to spray/blow anything I would cover those up. It looks like there may already be some damage to the front coil second from the left? That strip next to the resistors has a bent contact in the front, also. I think the sliding strips could be safely cleaned with a gentle spray of Deoxit, but I would be inclined to leave all this stuff on the top side alone for now.

I believe they are trimming caps, if I'm looking at the right part in the schematic. As far as the kind i don't know. Here is a better pic.

I don't see any damage to any of the coils currently.

 

[waggs098]

All the switches with the coils are for am and shortwave bands. The switch with nothing on it is for the tape/turntable input.

I'll see if I can get that switch out of the donor unit first and find out how to do it and if things (plastic) break then I will not try on the good unit and deal with it not being as clean as I would like.

 

[waggs098]

Got the push lever removed. You can see the hole in the board.




After that the slide just pulls out. Here are the innards and outside.






Notice the small spring straps that push on the contacts.

Edit: One thing I notice is after the slide is out some of the pins on the outside wiggle and feel loose.

 

[waggs098]

So one more thing to look at. In the pic I circled points in green. These are melted plastic under the switches I assume to hold the case in place.

I'm wondering if the pins and case are actually separate.

The yellow circle is the push lever.

 

[waggs098]

So the switch is removed from the donor unit.

Its built like a "tank". The pins are bent over on top and then smashed or crimped on the bottom to keep them in. All the pins wiggle. The contacts on the slide are quite hefty.

 

[waggs098]

Bottom view. The case is held by plastic melted rivets. The green circles show the connection on the switch.

I used my S.O.'s wood burning iron with a tip she didn't care about to melt the back side off.

I would have to figure out how to keep it solid again in the same fashion.

Best I can think of is black zip ties, small pieces cut and melted to the back side again.

Hmmm. Maybe just good hot glue? Put it on the pins and smash to the board quickly.

 

[waggs098]

So here is a picture of the donor unit with the switches taken apart.



Much easier than expected.

If I can figure out how to reattach the case in a secure way then removal isn't really all that bad.

 

[Catmanboo]

That's a big 'if' , but hopefully not too big for you to conquer. Just hope it still works, even better than before!

 

[waggs098]

That's a big 'if' , but hopefully not too big for you to conquer. Just hope it still works, even better than before!

That's the idea. Its not just the switches but trying to clean the board in between also.

Definitely gaining knowledge as to what really should be done and what SHOULDN'T. Like getting certain parts wet that should never be wet.

I have just put the switch case back in and used hot glue. Put the glue on the pin spots. It definitely has ahold. I pulled on it hard and didn't pop loose.

If I did go this route I would add hot glue to the bottom of the board on the pin locations. Add a little strength and cover any scraped spots.