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How to get rid of bloated bass

I'm told Timex watches perform as well as Rolex watches. And the drivers and boxes, properly used, are capable of excellent performence.


"The Highest form of Ignorance is when you reject something you don't know anything about"
WD


Cary on with the post , Your passive aggressive attempts drown the potential of knowledge !

It appears that a great creative craftsman was indeed involved in the box construction. That being said I would definitely port the box with a flared port to get the most out of the drivers potential.. or look for a good 8 inch Scan Speak Revalator or Fostex! Not cheap but made for a Good well made sealed enclose.. Much more than many want to spend when re engineering a speaker.. Thats why a port is a fast easy fix .. Box becomes happy as well as the driver !
 
What about an aperiodic vent?

Just looking at the back of the speaker... It could be an easy try.
He's got a tweeter control level at the back which can be removed. In that hole you could try some resistive material like fibreglass or Dacron or something.
This way nothing gets destroyed trying it out either.

Just a thought?
 
Just looking at the back of the speaker... It could be an easy try.
He's got a tweeter control level at the back which can be removed. In that hole you could try some resistive material like fibreglass or Dacron or something.
This way nothing gets destroyed trying it out either.

Just a thought?

Definitely would be my first approach and some toilet paper rolls too.. Before cutting Id experiment as much as possible to see if the drivers and x over will have any potential to fulfill your needs !
 
Just looking at the back of the speaker... It could be an easy try.
He's got a tweeter control level at the back which can be removed. In that hole you could try some resistive material like fibreglass or Dacron or something.
This way nothing gets destroyed trying it out either.

Just a thought?

I tried pulling that assembly out but it is glued in as well as screwed in. Same with the binding post plate. That is why I'll have to use the tweeter opening for the port to experiment and get it right before I drill a hole for the permenent port.
 
I tried pulling that assembly out but it is glued in as well as screwed in. Same with the binding post plate. That is why I'll have to use the tweeter opening for the port to experiment and get it right before I drill a hole for the permenent port.

If you try the tweeter opening, then try pushing tweeter control out from behind by going through the tweeter opening with your hand. You might have some luck by gently rocking it out of place. I doubt the builder used glue to put in that control. Must be like silicone or something.
If the tweeter opening is too small for your hand to fit, I would just take the woofer out and then go from there.

But you should be able to remove that tweeter control pot. I can't believe he or she cemented it in.

With regards to where you try your port or aperiodic vent? That control pot is probably the best place for it. I tend to keep my ports away from right behind the woofer. I find I get way too much midrange coming out of it if it's directly behind the woofer. So try to stay away from that if at all possible.

Let us know how you make out.
 
I just tried Faz. That plate is just a plate, not covering an opening, just the hole the stem fits through. I think for just tuning the woof, making an adjustable length port for the tweet opening will work well. As for port placement, I will do as you suggest and keep the port away from the woofer but it has to go in back. Putting it in front will mess up the design.
 
I just tried Faz. That plate is just a plate, not covering an opening, just the hole the stem fits through. I think for just tuning the woof, making an adjustable length port for the tweet opening will work well. As for port placement, I will do as you suggest and keep the port away from the woofer but it has to go in back. Putting it in front will mess up the design.

Ah... ok... I thought it was like the pot opening on one of my old Yamaha NS speakers. The opening on those are much bigger.
So yeah... as you already figured, your tweeter opening is the best to use for experimentation.

What you could also do when you do this, is just mount your tweeter on top of the speaker temporarily so that you can hear the whole frequency range when you're tuning the tweeter opening. If the wires aren't long enough just add some extra wire temporarily securing with electrical tape. I've done this many times. At least you'll get to hear what the speaker will sound like with each change you make and you're not judging by just the sound of the woofer.
Once you get the sound you kind of like out of one of the speakers... do the other one the same way and listen to them both like that for a while. This way you're sure the change you make is something you are going to like. Once you put a hole saw to the speaker... there's no going back! :nono: :D

Good luck!
 
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