How-To Guide for PL-12D, CEC BD-2000, Realistic Lab-300, etc

[doctor fuse]

Just used this excellent How-To Guide (http://mr-ives.blogspot.ca/2013/07/restoring-pioneer-pl-12d-turntable.html) for tuning up and restoring a Pioneer PL-12D. My new bedroom table is a CEC BD-2000 (rebadged "Electra"), which is so close to the Pioneer it makes you think if they weren't manufactured in the same factory, and designed by the same engineers, it is a miracle a major lawsuit wasn't involved.

This guide should also apply to the Realistic Lab-300, and dozens of other rebranded CEC tables.

I also added a pound of dollar-store plasticine to the underside of the platter, bringing the weight up from 2.5 lbs to 3.5 lbs. I haven't been too concerned about putting the platter's balance out. Unfortunately, if you put much at all of the plasticine at the outer edge (where it makes the most improvement to the flywheel effect), it will make contact with the motor pulley and belt. I don't notice any visual wobble to the platter when it spins, and its speed control and sound are much improved.



I added another pound to the underside of the upper chassis, and a bit more in the corners of the bottom of the lightweight plinth, to dampen and add mass (forgot to take a photo). The platter mat was replaced with a heavier Angstrom Ultimat. I slapped on an unused Grado XF-3 with 8MZ stylus. The deck sits atop a thick maple cutting board, with plasticine sandwiched between, and under the cutting board.

The re-oiling of the spindle and motor (10W40), and suspension refreshing (chucking the rotten foam in the springs, and replacing with loosely and haphazardly cut new foam) were done following the guide.

Gone are the audible wow&flutter, subtle reverberations, and resonances. Bass is tighter, and the overall sound is a bit "harder". Or to put it more positive; clearer. It's definitely not the same relaxed sound before the restoration/mods. But the quietness is quite astounding, as is the improved s/n ratio, instrument separation, detail retrieval, dynamics, and "slam" ( a bit harder than an idler, but still kind of cool). And it is no longer susceptible to footfall.

I still can't believe the sound and performance we can coax out of these unassuming early/mid 70s Japanese belt drives. Worth picking up good specimens if you find them for cheap! The table cost me $30 with Dust Bug arm brush and Empire 2000E cartridge (broken stylus ) included! The 3 lbs of plasticine cost $6.00.

Total cost: $36.00 CAD.



How-To Restoration Guide:

http://mr-ives.blogspot.ca/2013/07/restoring-pioneer-pl-12d-turntable.html

 

[olddude55]

I had a CEC-built deck decades ago. It was badged as a Rotel RP-1000Q and I got it in 1974. It was my first turntable.
It didn't have a cueing lever, but the speed control and tone arm looked like your Electra. My Rotel had the same anti-skate but there was no weight on the platter side of the tone arm's gimbal.
Another way to get better sound from the turntable is to replace the arm. I had a local stereo shop replace the arm with a Transcriptors Vestigal.
Honestly, I didn't think it was a very good turntable back then but in reality it was a much better machine than the Moth Alamo S I wasted $750 on 15 years ago. Even with the OE arm.

 

[spark1]

Could you have put the plasticine on the inside edge of the outer rim to increase the flywheel effect?

I've done a number of PL-12D tables, and like you I am always impressed with how good they can sound. I sometimes replace the spindle bearing and polish the bearing end of the spindle as well.

My first TT was a PL-12D....still own it (along with the Marantz 1060 amp, AR6 speakers and Shure M75 cartridge I bought at the same time). I've got a lot of "better" stuff now, but could easily be happy with that system still today.

 

[olddude55]

Could have done it but there was no Internet in those days, nowhere to get any ideas from.
It sounded good with the Transcriptors and it was built well. Sturdy and reliable. I was stupid to have sold it.

 

[spark1]

I should have been more clear...I was asking the OP, given his comment about flywheel effect. But yes, I'm glad I kept mine...it's kind of fun to still have my original stereo system (not counting the Montgomery Wards Airline portable with fold-out speakers and drop-down turntable that I inherited from a cousin when I was 12 or so).

 

[doctor fuse]

Could you have put the plasticine on the inside edge of the outer rim to increase the flywheel effect?

I've done a number of PL-12D tables, and like you I am always impressed with how good they can sound. I sometimes replace the spindle bearing and polish the bearing end of the spindle as well.

My first TT was a PL-12D....still own it (along with the Marantz 1060 amp, AR6 speakers and Shure M75 cartridge I bought at the same time). I've got a lot of "better" stuff now, but could easily be happy with that system still today.

I've never seen a pulley and belt as close to the rim of the platter as on this CEC. Once I get some more plasticine I might try to put some on that outer rim, but it will be so thin that likely won't do much.

Did you mean you replaced the ball bearing in the bottom of the spindle column? I'm not sure the CEC has that ball bearing that the Pioneer has. I couldn't see one, feel one, or get it out and I didn't turn the table upside down to let it fall out.

 

[spark1]

If not a ball bearing (as in the Pioneer), was there some sort of thrust plate?

Regarding the platter...why would the plasticine have to be so thin? I guess you could also use something like self-adhesive wheel weights spread evenly around the outer rim (inner edge)...but at some point you might be adding enough weight to accelerate the wear on the spindle and its bearing.

I experimented with several material over the years to "damp" the platter, even settting up identical tables so that I could A/B the effect. I ended up deciding that the platter as is sounded best to me...but I do have a felt anti-static mat on it.

 

[doctor fuse]

If not a ball bearing (as in the Pioneer), was there some sort of thrust plate?

Regarding the platter...why would the plasticine have to be so thin? I guess you could also use something like self-adhesive wheel weights spread evenly around the outer rim (inner edge)...but at some point you might be adding enough weight to accelerate the wear on the spindle and its bearing.

I experimented with several material over the years to "damp" the platter, even settting up identical tables so that I could A/B the effect. I ended up deciding that the platter as is sounded best to me...but I do have a felt anti-static mat on it.

Not sure if there is a ball bearing or thrust plate at the bottom. I just used paper towels and Q tips to clean out the old oil. I tried the straw trick to grab the ball if there was one down there, but didn't get a catch.

The plasticine would have to be so thin because otherwise the spinning pulley and belt will run into the plasticine. Not much more than a couple of millimeters of play.

I know the heavier (and most likely out of balance) platter will increase wear of the bearing and spindle, but I'm not too concerned. And I totally understand about liking the original sound. I did this with a Technics belt drive, and found the sound "hard". This time, I decided I would let my ears and brain acclimate to the new sound, and now I am really enjoying it.

I am listening to a Kinks album as I write this, which contains live tracks. I can now discern many individual voices in the large audience, which used to be just a roar. Pretty cool.