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How to LED Relamp a Sansui ORX-9001 (May also apply to other units or manufacturers.)

dickmc

New Member
I have fully recapped, ‘pinned’, and recalibrated a Sansui QRX-9001 which --along with four Axiom’s-- remains a prideful pace as my primary listening unit. Needless to say, I’ve also become skilled in putting pigtails on fuse lamps to replace the Sansui unobtanium Dial and Tuning Meter light bulbs. From time to time, I’ve also had to do the near equivalent of laparoscopic surgery to replace burned out Power Meter bulbs.

After one lamp replacement too many, I decided to look at completely relamping the unit with LEDs. However, a key criteria was to retain the 1970’s Sansui vintage ‘look’ and to keep the conversion reversibly straight forward. The resulting QRX-9001 LED relamping has very nice (I personally would say beautiful) emerald green Dial and Tuning Meters and ‘incandescent’ looking Power Meters.

OverallQRX-9001Receiver.jpg


As described in the attached uploaded pdf, this began with a fairly extensive investigation of the available colored and white LEDs and developing how to determine suitable units. The resulting two-part QRX LED Lighting Instructions Drawings Photos.pdf starts by explaining how to use www chromaticity tools with manufacturer’s color nanometer and XY specifications to select suitable LEDs for pretesting and relamping use. These were coupled with a specific low-differential-voltage regulator to develop an Addon Board to supply the necessary AC to DC conversion.

DCOverlayBoardandTuningMeterLEDLighting.jpg


LEDDialLighting.jpg


LEDPowerMeterLighting.jpg


Included in the pdf is a complete parts list plus four key Sansui QRX installation photos, as well as detailed drawings for the Addon Board and the various Tuning Meter, Dial Lighting, and Power Meter LED conversion assemblies. Extensive step by step instructions are also provided for constructing both the assemblies and for actually doing the complete relamping.

The end result is a Sansui QRX with a very attractive emerald green Dial and Tuning Meter lighting as well as relatively incandescent looking Power Meter lighting. Moreover, these LEDs produce very little heat and won’t burn out causing inconvenient replacements.

Furthermore, because of the way this LED lighting conversion is accomplished, these concepts, LED selections, and Addon AC-to-DC Board should also be potentially applicable to other Sansui units and even to other manufacturer’s units of the 1970s.

I might add that it took far less time to do this QRX-9001 LED relamping; than it did to write it up here.

Regards,
dickmc
 

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Nice work on that, very thorough.....
There is the argument of course that LED's have a limited life-span, usually less than a normal bulb, however you seem to have been replacing them regularly....
I have found if you get the right bulbs, all is well and they will last another 30 years.....if you get bulbs which are not the correct voltage and current, they will not last very long, and I have been there, it is very frustrating firing up your favorite receiver to find there is a bulb out.....
Also some particular bulbs are impossible to get so I totally understand how you have ended up going this way....
However, all that said, you have done an exceptional job on that, and I am interested to see how long the LED's last.......
 
Thanks,

I have found if you get the right bulbs, all is well and they will last another 30 years.....if you get bulbs which are not the correct voltage and current, they will not last very long, and I have been there, it is very frustrating firing up your favorite receiver to find there is a bulb out.....


Actually there is a crucial third component which is filament temperature (essentially life) at rated voltage. For example, the pointer bulb which lasts forever is orange in temperature.

Unfortunately other than a few specialty sites, rated incandescent bulb life is rarely listed --or probably even known. About the only good site that I know of are the lamps at ACK Electronics http://www.acksupply.com/catalog/lamps.pdf which I have used as a lamp supplier for years. Unfortunately 8 volt lamps for tuning meters and dial lighting are becoming exceedingly rate and even then are only rated for 5,000 hours.

To date, my experience is that LEDs will essentially last forever as long as they are operated at or below rated current.
 
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Very nice work, and great documentation...
Thanks for the link for lamps, it appears they have a lamp I have been looking for forever.
Casey
 
Nice job, looks really good. I just did a customer's 9001 with all LED's, looks similar except that I left the tuning meters blue. I found that a simple dc supply made up of a diode and a 470uf cap did the trick.
 

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Thanks

One thing I should have added is that if you are shopping for LEDs, Mouser has very good detailed specifications if you can work your way into their comparison mode http://www.mouser.com/Optoelectronics/LED-Indication/Standard-LED-Through-Hole/_/N-75pv5/. Particularly since they tabulate such things as: diameter, wavelength, luminous intensity, and viewing angle.

Incidentally, if you want a rough guide to overall illumination power when selecting between candidate LEDs, a useful indicator is 'luminous intensity' times the square of 'viewing angle'. The larger number will be the LED with the most total light output.

Regards.
 
When I did mine, I used fuse lamps for the tuning meters, replacement lamps for the power meters, and LED's for the dial. Took me a couple of times to get the color right.

Because the tuning meters are the stock color, I tried to match them.

I soldered the dial LED's in and bent the legs so the LED aimed into the side of the dial.

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Rob
 
I did mine to, to look like it came out of the box.Thanks for taking the time .Excellent
Joe
 
All the LED mod look great with all differant colors the blue has that mar--tz look to it, I still like some of the models that turn off the tuning lights when not in use when switching to phono or aux like the 5000X and the QRX 5500 thats the only thing about the 9001 that I am getting use to. Ken
 
Nice job, looks really good. I just did a customer's 9001 with all LED's, looks similar except that I left the tuning meters blue. I found that a simple dc supply made up of a diode and a 470uf cap did the trick.

Getting ready to dive into mine ... just got a big ol' box of caps and resistors from Mouser in today's mail.

You wouldn't happen to have a parts list for your conversion? Really like the looks. Be good to know which LEDs you used so I can match the results. Also, a diagram of your power supply would be much appreciated. I'm decent at following instructions, but when it comes to blazing new paths, I tend to smoke a lot of shoes. <G>
 
I used these LED's for the dial. Bend them so they aim into the side of the dial.
They are the ones you see in the pic a few posts up. The green.
b4304h95 linrose

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Rob
 
LED light strips?

I see Linrose also makes a 10v light strip that you can cut to length. Wonder if that would even out the light better across the dial? Heck - for power, just plug a 9v wall wart into the switched outlet on the back ...

LINROSE 9V LIGHT STRIPS

I'm thinking you could also just run one strip along the back of all the power meters and kill four birds with one stone. The strips can be cut to length as needed. Run the strip along the TOP of the meters, and just clip the power and leave the original lighting fixtures alone. Have to play around with spacing - seems to me there's plenty of room to add a bracket to hold the strip away from the meters and/or angle it to control the light diffusion. too. That might also get rid of that annoying (to me anyway) dead spot in the middle of each meter?

No rush for me - I've still got good lights all the way across.

qrx9001-original-dial-light.jpg


fizzle

WHAT WAS THAT?? <G>
 
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While we're on the subject of lighting ... and annoyances ...

Is there a tried and true method to cut out the leakage around the edges of the front panel on these things? I've done a couple rigs in the past where some masking and flat black paint did the trick. I also had to paint the edges of the glass and a narrow band on the back of the glass to eliminate any "light piping" effect.

Not sure about the glow around the buttons - I suppose that does make them a bit easier to find in the dark, but that's what the indicator lights are for.
 
Here is what mine looks like just after the restore
Joe
 

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