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[How to] restore my McIntosh MC-60

I use the 80x40x30x20@525V slightly shorter, tie the 30 and 80 together and use as 80, 20 for the 15, 40 for the 35. If you do not plan on using a C8 preamp and leave the socket unused take the 20uF sections and tie them together.
 
Here is what I did trying to maintain the "original" look. For the single caps, I removed the can from the unit, spin it on a lathe and bore out the old stuff. Hide the new parts inside so at a glance, the part will look just like before. See picture.

I was able to buy some new Mallory brown caps from McIntosh parts department to replace those old one. I am in the process to bore out the bumble bee but the first one I tried crack on me so I need to rethink what is the best way.

I know that no one will ever see most of the stuff... but... just in case the McIntosh god is looking from above. I hope he is happy.

LN
 
The McIntosh god would be happy to see the bumble bee caps removed from the unit. They are not very good and we all know it. Use orange or yellow poly caps and live happily ever after.

thanks,
Ron-C
 
Thanks LN,

You did a great job utilizing the old cans and keeping the original look. I thought the cans were rivetted into the chassis. What did you replace the selenium rectifier with?

Levi
 
Thanks Terry,

Hopefully, I would be able to put the information together. This is like a peice of puzzle I have to put together. It has been fun so-far-so good.

Hi Ryan,
I am looking forward to what Mike and I talked about...MC-60 rebuild kit:thmbsp:

Levi

dewickt said:
I use the 80x40x30x20@525V slightly shorter, tie the 30 and 80 together and use as 80, 20 for the 15, 40 for the 35. If you do not plan on using a C8 preamp and leave the socket unused take the 20uF sections and tie them together.
Click to expand...
 
batman said:
Thanks LN,

You did a great job utilizing the old cans and keeping the original look. I thought the cans were rivetted into the chassis. What did you replace the selenium rectifier with?

Levi
Click to expand...

Hello Levi, I use 1N4007 to replace the selenium. The cans mounting plates are rivetted into the chassis. However, the can itself has a few tabs that are go thru the mounting plate and twisted to secure. All I did was unsolder it from the mounting plate and un-twist the tab and it will come out. If you do not have a lathe or have access to one, a Dremel tool will work too, it will just take longer. Once you break the end cap off, you can just pull the old paper/foil out.

LN

P.S. Pictured was a MC225 and not a MC60. Process is still the same.
 
Hi All,

It was brought to my attention regarding non-existent rebuild kit for the MC-60 (?). I wonder why many repair shops do not provide such kit(s):

1) Is it about safety and reliability?

2) Potential loss of business opportunity? Parts are easily available on web and shops makes less$ on parts?

3) Rebuild kit not for DIY?

4) Repair shops don't bother since it will make it too easy? Goto step 2.

5) There are better McInstosh amps out there worth the time and money.

Hmmm...
 
Some of part 2 some part 3 maby some 1, plus it's easy to find the parts for a lot less then the rebuild kits if you know what you are doing. That's the key if you know what you are doing you don't need kits. With kits and it goes bad for any number of reasons people sometimes blame the seller even if it has nothing to do with the parts. When a seller just sells parts there is less risk for them.
 
batman said:
Hi All,

It was brought to my attention regarding non-existent rebuild kit for the MC-60 (?). I wonder why many repair shops do not provide such kit(s):

1) Is it about safety and reliability?

2) Potential loss of business opportunity? Parts are easily available on web and shops makes less$ on parts?

3) Rebuild kit not for DIY?

4) Repair shops don't bother since it will make it too easy? Goto step 2.

5) There are better McInstosh amps out there worth the time and money.

Hmmm...
Click to expand...
6) Not cost effective on a small scale.

I vote for number 6. :smoke:
I doubt that anybody would sell that many kits a year. Imagine doing the research to find all the parts used in each series of production in each amplifier? How do you really charge for all that research?
These sources are not necessarily accurate as well. Best to buy what you already have and check your voltages afterwards.
Carl
 
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The other problem is that does the person installing the parts have the test equipment to properly check his MC60, VOM for resistor checking and bias verification, metered variac to bring up the amplifier slowly while monitoring for problems that can cause excessive current draw. Then the test equipment that most people never have to check distortion and output, afterall after all the work it would be only fitting to get real data that proves the upgrades were worth the effort.
I can give lots of hints on what to do, but the actual mechanics of the job are something that is hard to tell a person.
 
I have used the rebuild kits from VTV. The MC-30 kits included all the signal caps (IC), and key resistors. New diodes for bias. Do what Terry says about replacing the bias resistor.
They do have a kit for the 60's as well.
 
Thanks Terry for all the hints. :thmbsp:

dewickt said:
I can give lots of hints on what to do, but the actual mechanics of the job are something that is hard to tell a person.
Click to expand...
 
This is excellent information Dan.

I am waiting for Ryan for his version of replacement parts for the MC-60. Perhaps, we should refrain from calling it "rebuild kit" for some safety reason (s) (?).:yes:

Thanks guys for all the input.

Levi

mc dan said:
I have used the rebuild kits from VTV. The MC-30 kits included all the signal caps (IC), and key resistors. New diodes for bias. Do what Terry says about replacing the bias resistor.
They do have a kit for the 60's as well.
Click to expand...
 
A rebuild kit is available! These findings just proves me wrong with my previous posting regarding a non-existent kit. They do exist. Bua ha ha ha :music:

Thanks to mc dan for the VTV kit info. It is true, they do offer a kit for many audio vintage systems.

I just confirmed with Ryan and he will start selling a rebuild kit with instructions for the MC-60. :thmbsp:
 
I just bought complete NOS Tungsol and RCA replacement tubes for testing purposes.

I still have them Genalex Gold Lions waiting until the project is done. They are quad matched tested good.

74272248.jpg
 
looks like one of the flashing is about had it.

BTW, having all the equipment per Terry's list is very important. It is more than just replacing parts. It is always good to know after all the new part, how well is the unit performing.

Am I glad I did not pop any of my spare tubes back in the early 70s when most of my friends did when we used to think transistors were the way to go.:no:

LN
 
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