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How to select a replacement tweeter (without knowing specs) Norman Lab Model 10

thedudedigs

New Member
I snagged a pair of Norman Lab Model 10's that needed some TLC. I repaired the surrounds on one and
recapped it. It sounds swell. The other, has a blown tweeter. I have no idea, and haven't been able
to find any specs on the crossover or tweeter. I replaced a tweeter before, with less than stellar results, based solely on mounting screw placement. I'd like to avoid that waste of resources.
So I guess my question is tri-fold:
a) can you determine the crossover or speaker specs via testing with equipment available in an average garage?
b) does anybody know what the specs are for the tweeters or crossovers of Norman Lab Model 10?
or
c) if you are going in blind and don't know any specs, what do you do then?

I've looked at tweeters on parts express, and all of them have 4.5 stars or higher out of 5, so it's hard to believe there's any way to screw this up, but, as someone who has managed to screw it up before: any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Did you look for an actual replacement on ebay? You could start a WTB thread in Barter Town, but you would need to become a subscriber to do that.

They are Philips tweeters, so they were probably used in other companies designs. Pull the tweeter and get the numbers off the back.

Here is a link to The Classic Speaker Pages with some more info, including a post from the designer of the Model 10.

http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/IP.Board/index.php?/topic/673-norman-labs/

This is a quote from another post on the CSP linked above. You could start a conversation with basicblues and ask.

"One of the really knowledgeable guys about Norman Labs on Audiokarma is a guy named basicblues, and there's several informative threads there."
 
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If you need a norman style tweeter, it is probably a Philips. See if the dead or other tweeters have the model number on them. If not, you would need to measure the impedance as Philips made both 4 and 8 ohm versions. Should be easy to get one that will work off the bay. Are the tweeters marked?
 
I've been checking Ebay for a couple of weeks, to no avail. But the speakers don't have a single mark, except a red dot.
Thanks for the advice, I'll have a look at ebay and see if there are any Philips tweets that look like them.
 
I'm no expert, but I wonder if you could also look at the capacitor to back into the frequency it starts at; then with the impedance, you'd be close. May we'll hear from an expert in this...
 
Try speakerworkstulsa.com their web site the says they specialize in Norman labs. Maybe somebody there could answer your question. Hope this helps. I lived in Oklahoma City in the late 70's and again in the mid to late 80's . I owned a pair of Norman lab tens but sold them to a friend. I looked, but don't have any of the documentation around.
 
Try speakerworkstulsa.com

Ah yes, Speaker Dave. A friend in Tulsa drops by his place on a regular basis. It is absolutely packed with gear, can't even get in the place is what he says and he is a skinny guy. Dave will know what goes in the cabinet and may have what you need.
 
Try speakerworkstulsa.com their web site the says they specialize in Norman labs. Maybe somebody there could answer your question. Hope this helps. I lived in Oklahoma City in the late 70's and again in the mid to late 80's . I owned a pair of Norman lab tens but sold them to a friend. I looked, but don't have any of the documentation around.
Thanks, I'll see if they have
Try speakerworkstulsa.com their web site the says they specialize in Norman labs. Maybe somebody there could answer your question. Hope this helps. I lived in Oklahoma City in the late 70's and again in the mid to late 80's . I owned a pair of Norman lab tens but sold them to a friend. I looked, but don't have any of the documentation around.
I shot them an email. Thanks. I'll let you know what comes of it.
(I also have a Tannoy that probably needs to be re-coned and asked them about that).
 
Thanks, I'll see if they have

I shot them an email. Thanks. I'll let you know what comes of it.
(I also have a Tannoy that probably needs to be re-coned and asked them about that).

Did you find the Model 10 tweeter? I'd advise sticking with stock unless you change all 4. It will be very difficult to match the Philips (and thats what NL used primarily). Post a pic if you can. I'm pretty familiar with Normans. There are 2 different Philips (if memory serves): 1 version has 3 screws another 4 screws that mounts the magnet/motor assembly to the faceplate.
 
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Did you find the Model 10 tweeter? I'd advise sticking with stock unless you change all 4. It will be very difficult to match the Philips (and thats what NL used primarily). Post a pic if you can. I'm pretty familiar with Normans. There are 2 different Philips (if memory serves): 1 version has 3 screws another 4 screws that mounts the magnet/motor assembly to the faceplate.

I paid the guys over at Speakerworks in Tulsa to repair my original (didn't cost much). Thanks for the help. I ended up trying to refoam a driver and blew it up. I sent that one to them and they suggested I replace the original drivers with some generics from parts express. I ordered them and when delivered I'll do a side by side comparison to see how they sound compared to the originals prior to making the decision to pay to have the originals restored, or what (those speakers started out as a good deal).
 
Di
I paid the guys over at Speakerworks in Tulsa to repair my original (didn't cost much). Thanks for the help. I ended up trying to refoam a driver and blew it up. I sent that one to them and they suggested I replace the original drivers with some generics from parts express. I ordered them and when delivered I'll do a side by side comparison to see how they sound compared to the originals prior to making the decision to pay to have the originals restored, or what (those speakers started out as a good deal).

Did you blow up one of the polypropylene woofers by chance? If so, shoot me a pm.
 
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