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I F'd it up and need a little help. Marantz 2325 recap gone wrong

gaboozo99

Vinny Bag o' Pins
HI everyone. Been some time since I've had to post here looking for some help, but I had a dear friend bequeath to me his Marantz 2325 and I've had a rebuild kit in my hands for the better part of the year sitting in a box. Now that the worst of the summer heat is over with, and my garage is a somewhat friendly working environment, I decided to get to work. This 2325 is not my first rodeo. I've rebuilt and repaired several other Marantz and Pioneer receivers of the day, and know my way around a soldering iron and multimeter. I even have a logic probe..ooooooohh, ahhhhh. SO I'm competent in through hole board repair, been doing this on Arcade equipment for over 25 years as well.

To start, the 2325 was functioning. Meaning it had sound from both left and right channels, it would tune to FM and AM stations and in general terms all the functions seemed to do what they were supposed to do. Volume was intermittent at low levels, and it took turning it up at least a 3rd of the way to get sound from both left and right channels. But once playing, it would do so for plenty of time with out issue. Several hours at least if it was behaving. So armed with what I thought was a working receiver, some really dirty controls, and a bunch of burnt out lamps etc. I dove in. Rebuilt the power supply, all new electrolytic caps, new LY2 relay (had to wait for that a couple days, and more on why that was an issue) new TIP 41 transistors with new thermal paste and all mica insulators and heat shrink insulators installed again etc. No issues. Some slight lifting of the relay traces, but nothing that was severed from the circuits themselves. This receiver is all original, no previous work, and is fairly clean. Double checked polarity of the caps with the board markings AND the before pics I took just to ensure they matched the originals. The parts are from a kit (fairly reputable ebay seller,) and I verified each cap was correct impedance and in all cases higher voltage values. Kit parts were broken down by board, so only the Power supply parts were taken out of the bag marked "Power supply" Provided instructions were only helpful in keeping track of which parts I replaced, along with a marking on the sheet. Not that the PS is that complex anyway. Ok here's the issue. I don't have a copy of the schematics or service manual. Seems HiFi Engine no longer knows my User ID or password and isn't accepting new members. So Even the link provided by the ebay seller takes me to a log in, and I figured, when I need to do the adjustments I'll just look those up and do so when needed. Besides that the kit had the wrong relay so while I waited for the correct one to arrive, I had the right channel amp already uninstalled and figured, well I'll just do that one while I'm waiting.

Same deal, replaced electrolytics, all the smaller transistors, and 4 diodes plus the flyback diodes, put together a differential pair with thermal grease and a bit of heatshrink to keep them together, etc. etc. Also added the flyback diodes (in opposing directions) as this unit is an early production unit and didn't' have them. Made sure to check out pictures, and installed them to the correct resistor leads, and leads on the board. Not really difficult stuff here, and all the work was cleaned, solder pads checked, figured easy peasy.

Got the relay a day later, installed it in a couple minutes, put the right channel amp back plugged it in with the 4 pin Molex and cleaned RCA type plug and set it all up on a dim bulb tester with a 100w bulb. Flipped the switch, all came on as expected, no issues, no smoke, etc. Took it off the dim bulb, turned it back on, and tried to get sound. Got sound out of the left side only. Tried fader back and forth, and while all the way to the right I can get very faint sound from the left channel when volume is turned way up, but the right side is silent. Dead silent.


Ok so at this point I know I need to get out some test equipment and start checking voltages and see whether I have a power supply issue or an amp issue. Did a quick test of the output to the amps.. J809 (blue wire) on P800 power supply has 11.7 mV, and J808 (yellow wire) on P800 has 174 mV. (Big discrepancy here) Voltages on the P800 board check out. J806 19.81V, J807 13.02V, (a little low?) J805 34.96V. Voltages at the amps find plus and minus 62.2 V at both left and right sides, so those look good as well. Tried connecting and cross connecting the Pre In with output via RCA cables, no change. Only the left side channel has sound.


Figured maybe someone with more intimate knowledge than I could start to point me in the right direction. Just grabbed the Service manual and schematics off AK's PDF database, (TY AK!) At this point before I start really digging in, I figured I better get prepared so I can get this done correctly. My buddy deserves to know his prized amp is singing once again and being enjoyed down here on Earth. I know he'll be happy when that day comes!

Thanks in advance.

Vinny
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Crossing the pre-in/main-out jacks tells you the right amp board is either the problem or not getting a signal.

Have a scope? Scope the signal to the right amp board then start following it in.

If the board is still out check the trace side to be sure soldering is good and the flux is removed and that there aren't any shorts.
 
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Thanks Kwayde. No scope, but I do have a logic probe which is typically how I follow signal paths. Figured it was the amp considering voltages on the P800 are good and the plus and minus 60V are good at the amp itself. Have pulled the amp again, double checked the soldering, but considering this is my first 2325, maybe some of those solder pads that look connected may not be. I'll go over them again.
 
Pulled the amp board, desoldered all the replaced components and reflowed them just to be sure there were no solder bridges. Did another wash to get any flux off the board, checked all polarity of caps, diodes and transistors. Don't see any glaring mistakes. Without a scope, I'm open to suggestions to continue troubleshooting. Thanks!
 
Buy a scope. Without one you are just working blind.
 
As to troubleshooting I would, place under a dimbulb and then do some testing. You gave one good channel, that is an excellent helper. Examine and test the parts you replaced on each channel, the good channel verifies orientation and voltages. There should be some nice clues there to help narrow it down. You can use your meter with a probe that just has the very tip exposed, if you dont have a probe like that use tape to cover all of it but the tiny tip, you don't want to create a short in a tight space.
 
Thanks guys. At the suggestion of someone who's helped restore more of these Marantz units than I can count, I checked to see that in installing the 1uF Film cap on the amp board didn't break one of the legs internally while trying to get the legs to fit in the through holes. So with a spare Film cap earmarked for the left channel I replaced that with no change. At that point I figured I'd just better make sure it's an amp board problem (was fairly sure it was) but I swapped the left and right sides, and verified that in doing som the problem migrates to the opposite side. Right side amp board(non working) plugged in left channel, gets no sound and vice versa. Ruling out problems with bad controls, fader etc. I'll be copying a picture of the amp board schematics tomorrow morning and checking the voltages on the amp itself. Was concentrating more on the P800 hoping to ensure that everything from the front end power wise was correct. Seems that's the case. I'll report back with results.
Good night
 
I restored another 2325 for him and have been looking at it and communicating via email. I gave a few more ideas late last evening so we'll see how that pans out. Reading through this post I have an idea. If you have a test speaker laying around, of any size, wire it up to ground and to the right channel actual output at J710, the 4 pin connector on the amp board, at the end pin spaced away. Move the balance slider all the way to the right. If there's sound, reconnect the wire to the power supply at pin J809. If you hear sound, the relay may be faulty or there's a subtle break on the relay's normally open pin, usually right at the pad. Your mention of the lifted trace at the relay gave me the idea.

The DC voltage you measured at the output may have been the meter floating? :dunno:
 
I'm not sure why you would take on this kind of project without having a scope. You would really benefit from having one for troubleshooting a problem like this. They are so cheap these days there is really no excuse.
 
What did you use for the differential pair and are the legs correct? Can't tell from the pics if they're put together face to face.
 
I restored another 2325 for him and have been looking at it and communicating via email. I gave a few more ideas late last evening so we'll see how that pans out. Reading through this post I have an idea. If you have a test speaker laying around, of any size, wire it up to ground and to the right channel actual output at J710, the 4 pin connector on the amp board, at the end pin spaced away. Move the balance slider all the way to the right. If there's sound, reconnect the wire to the power supply at pin J809. If you hear sound, the relay may be faulty or there's a subtle break on the relay's normally open pin, usually right at the pad. Your mention of the lifted trace at the relay gave me the idea.

The DC voltage you measured at the output may have been the meter floating? :dunno:
Thanks for the suggestions. Gave connecting the speaker directly up the output on the right amp and no change. (but don't forget, I also put the right amp/board in the left channel and it was still silent. Put the working left channel amp/board in the right side and it was fine, so I think I've ruled out the P800 power supply and components.

Have a bunch more info, but having taken reading off the DBT, I don't know what's accurate, so I went back to redo all the transistor readings off the DBT and the heat sink actually just nicked the chassis and shorted for a split second. Guess my insulating board shifted. Put everything back in an fastened with screws, powered up on DBT, bulb stays dim, Powered up off the DBT and relay clicks on, and doesn't go back into protection, so fingers crossed I haven't shorted any outputs.

I quickly double checked some voltages at the outputs, and get Pos and Neg 62V at the outputs, but the emitter voltages are all in the range of -355mV. Which is exactly the DC offset measurement. PS. I can't adjust it any closer to zero on the right channel as the pot is at it's limit (wasn't there previously) I've just adjusted it to the max and that's as low as I can get.

Ran out of time today to work on this, I've got some time later this week as I'm taking time off for the Halloween holiday, lol. Will get back at it and measure again off the DBT to see if there are any changes.

FWIW, measured the following also off the DBT

H701
B 6.1mV
C-22.1V
E .6V

These are essentially the same as on the DBT. just the first one I had time to retest. Still unsure why the lower voltage at the emitter than the expected 1.2V on the schematic. Randy is this what you were referring to as incorrect in the schematic diagram? I know these were plagued with misprints, but hadn't seen any references to this in particular.

Thanks again for all the assistance and tips everyone. To answer why I don't have a scope. Never needed one, have always been successful with the basics that I have. Also this amp was working and I figured a recap wouldn't cause any problems. Lastly, I don't do enough of these kinds of repairs anymore to warrant buying more equipment, but it necessitates getting a scope (thanks for the link Dr. Audio) Then I'll consider grabbing one. I also have had plenty of help in the past from folks here at AK so I was going that route first. Hope that makes sense.


Enjoy the rest of the weekend everyone.
 
What did you use for the differential pair and are the legs correct? Can't tell from the pics if they're put together face to face.
Pair of KSA992's Flat sides together with some heat sink compound in between. Mind you these were provided in a overhaul kit, so they have not been "matched" which would be ideal I know.
 
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