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I got a 2245!.. and I think i broke it..

A

Ashek

New Member
I'm new to vintage audio, so go easy on a newb :(
So after weeks of internet researching, and rolling through classifieds and audio shops, i bought a 2245 in pretty decent condition. Wood case, no scuffs, sounded fine in the shop. Stereo lamp is out and FM tuning has trouble, but whatever, i'm happy with it and the price.
Bring it home, sounds great. Hook it up to a set of 6ohm speakers I had laying around, and watched 3 episodes of Dr Who.

By the 3rd hour, there's this loud buzzing sound, and all the lamps are flickering.
It sounds like electricity arcing more than buzzing actually.

Turn it off, unplug everything, no 'purple smoke' or smell..
The odd part is it still worked.. didn't cut a channel out, or effect sound quality much, and the only reason i noticed it was because it got louder than the audio track.

Buzzing isn't through speakers, and is always there (all inputs, all volumes / levels).
Even with nothing connected. Just powered on = buzzing.
It 'seems' to be coming from around the power switch or the phones jack, front right in any case.

Removed top and bottom, and cant see anything 'obviously' wrong with it, or any arcing or shorting going on with it on (no sparks!). none of the caps i can see are obviously leaking or bulging, but hard to tell with an untrained eye.

Taking it back is out of the question, i'm hooked on this already,
Is it even safe to plug in to try to narrow down the sound, or would it potentially burn up some other bits?
Where should I start?
Could this be something obvious i can find / cure myself? or should I just take it to a tech to have inspected + fixed?
 
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Ashek, welcome to AK! And welcome to the wacky world of vintage audio, and specifically Marantz gear.

The 2245 is a great unit, but it is also at least 42 years old, so it's not unexpected that it might have some problems or need maintenance, repair, or even refurbishment. The first things to do are:

1. Download the manual from the AK Database or HiFi Engine, and the service manual if you can get it too.
2. On Ak, read up on and build a DBT - dim bulb tester. It can be used to prevent runaway problems that could blow up major parts and let the magic smoke out.
3. Figure out if you want to learn how to troubleshoot and repair your own gear. If you do. There's plent of Marantz threads on the 2245 and similar receivers which will give you lots of ideas and pointers on how to proceed. If so. You'll need rudimentary tools like a soldering iron, solder, a digital multimeter (DMM)' test leads with miniclips, and of course tools for disassembly and repair work, plus a good lighted work area and maybe a magnifier.
4. If not interested in that, then find a good tech in your area and take it to them for diagnosis and repIr. However, be prepared for at least a couple of hundred on the bill for even routine repair, lights, etc. Some of this you can do (lights).
5. Go to your profile and add in your location, there may be an AK member who is nearby who could lend a hand.
6. Since you're new here, we just want to let you know:

:needpics:

:thumbsup: Good luck and I'm sure others will chime I over the next couple of days.
 
Hey welcome !
Lamps flickering and an arcing sound ? otherwise working ? Sounds like the power switch is going bad.
The 2245 will be just fine with 6 ohm speakers.
If you are technically and safety-wise able, I would try jumping that power switch to make sure thats what it is. If yes then replace it, and the safety cap as well.
Good luck !
 
Bert 1100 said:
Hey welcome !
Lamps flickering and an arcing sound ? otherwise working ? Sounds like the power switch is going bad.
The 2245 will be just fine with 6 ohm speakers.
If you are technically and safety-wise able, I would try jumping that power switch to make sure thats what it is. If yes then replace it, and the safety cap as well.
Good luck !
Click to expand...

Agree, hopefully the primary problem, but then also important to check out the rest of the system and so some valuable maintenance on it.
 
If you are interested in learning to work on these units, there are lots of willing folks with tons of experience in the Marantz forum to help you. There is a learning curve, you need some soldering and unsoldering skills (not hard to learn) and the right equipment. The AK bible on what equipment you need is EchoWars' thread describing what tools and equipment you will need. The first two items are the most expensive and will not be needed to get started, but if you get hooked, you will eventually want them.

http://audiokarma.org/forums/index....udio-gear-eh-heres-the-tools-you-need.333423/


And here is a very good thread to walk you through building a DBT (dim bulb tester), which should be used before powering up with direct line power every time you work on a unit. It helps you detect shorts and MIGHT give you a few seconds to shut off the power before doing major damage. I built my DBT using the instructions in this thread.

http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/compact-dim-bulb-tester-wiring.465423/#post-6009937
 
I just replaced the switch in a 2230 which is similar. Buying from Mouser, I used part no 612-P227EE2B20A for the switch , 80-C981U103MYVDBWL20 as a safety cap and a 120 ohm 1/4 watt resistor (eg 660-CF1/4CT52R121J). All this comes in under $4.
You need to solder the wires but it's not too hard a project for yourself or any reasonably competent technician.
 
Wow, thanks for being so friendly and welcoming!
I haven't soldered/desoldered stuff since high school, and although fairly comfortable with it at the time, i'm not sure how much i'd be willing to tackle adding/removing components on a PCB. Wires on a switch terminal, sure, not much to mess up.

And yes, it is the switch. Upon closer inspection, one of the rocker contacts is burned black, and a tiny bit of magic smoke does leak out, with a tiny bit of sparks coming out from inside of it.

Now about this 'safety cap' and resistor that bluehills5 mentioned... I don't think i have one now..
Should it be on the switch itself? (currently, 'front' pair has a brown wire across both terminals, and the 'back' pair has two yellow wires, one per terminal).
Is it on a board somewhere? (which one? C808/C809 on P800?)
on the underside of the switch, and hence not obvious till i remove it?

The reason I ask, is i'd probably be comfortable swapping the switch out, but a disc cap and a resistor on a PCB, less so.
 
They are usually either piggy backed on the side of the power switch or mounted back by the two rear panel outlet/receptacles.


Here is one I just installed on a 2270....
BGVcDj3.jpg

The series resistor is inside the heat shrink for protection.
Removing the side chassis bracket makes it easy to get at.


Bob
 
This brings up a question I have not seen definitively answered. In a routine complete rebuild, do you replace a trouble free switch or leave it alone? So far, I have only replaced them when they seemed to have trouble. So....you guys that do lots of these - replace switch, cap and resistor, replace only cap and resistor or leave alone??:dunno:
 
Sometimes the suppressor network is located near the AC outlets on the rear panel, electrically it is still connected across the power switch contacts.
I always replace the suppressor network, but the power switch if only if necessary.

Tom
 
catrafter said:
Sometimes the suppressor network is located near the AC outlets on the rear panel, electrically it is still connected across the power switch contacts.
I always replace the suppressor network, but the power switch if only if necessary.

Tom
Click to expand...
:thumbsup: Good to know. Thanks!
 
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