I just got a soldering iron! Time to buy some caps - help me put together a PE order

[avionic]

I've found nothing works anywhere near as well as solder wick.

This "soldapullt DS017" by stanley is by far , better than solderwick.The problem with solderwick is it is way to easy to damage copper PCB traces especially on some of the lower quality PCBoards. This solder vac is " standard issue" for military electronics CTK's (consolidated tool kits)... http://www.howardelectronics.com/edsyn/solderpullt.html

 

[High_Current]

Mine is a soldapullt III model PT 209, replacement tip MRT16. I'd assume a google search will find them. Served me well for many years.

 

[shimniok]

The solder wick only wicks if you have enough heat. Have to let the iron heat up all the way and have to pull the wick and iron away at the same time while solder is molten. I've had good luck about not damaging pcbs but I could see how it might pull up a trace if you're not careful. Sounds like I should check out some of these other options too. That's what I love about this place---all these knowledgeable folks.

 

[highfigh]

are you wearing pants? I have found them essential in any soldering job.

just saying.

+1 to the desoldering tool advice. those spring loaded dealies are a lifesaver.
just have some form of vessel to dump the waste solder in, otherwise you will have all these super thin slivers and flakes of solder all over your work area from when you depress the desoldering tool to recock it.
I use a crappy old coffee mug, and I always cock the desoldering tool over it to catch all the solder flakes.

I just re-cock over a waste basket.

 

[mswer]

Thank you for all of your thoughtful responses! I do not yet have a desoldering iron, it seems I made a critical error on my Rat Shack run the other day in forgetting it.

I'll post a more extensive follow-up tonight when I'm at home with my speakers. I have decided to prioritize the EPIs and the Advents; the Sansui 771 is lower on my list of concerns, since it is just a temporary solution to main receiver. I've looked over the link re: Advent crossovers, and I'm sure it will be useful to me as I work through this process. I have many follow up questions, as I am new to this process, but I'm looking forward to starting new projects.

Just to note: I have soldered before, but this will be my first stereo project involving soldering. Other than the tip to get solder with 5% silver (which I will need to do), and the desoldering iron that I still will need, am I missing anything critical? I don't have a multimeter, but I think I've read enough times that I won't need one for at least the straight-forward jobs like simple crossovers that I'd prefer to hold off on that, for cost reasons. I know they can be had relatively cheaply, but everything starts to add up pretty quickly!

 

[toxcrusadr]

I like to clip off the leads of the old components at the point where they enter the cap, leaving the old leads soldered to the terminals. Then, make a pigtail in the leads for the new component by wrapping around a thin stiff piece of wire like coathanger wire (small as you can get). Dunk that in flux and slide it over the old lead. Solder in place. Some people don't like this method because there isn't necessarily a 'secure physical connection prior to soldering.' I got to using it on old radios, where there are many components soldered to delicate terminals on tube sockets. Much easier not to try to remove all that. It hasn't done me wrong yet and I've avoided all kinds of damage and headaches and saved a lot of time. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Jcricket]

I've found nothing works anywhere near as well as solder wick.

Don't absent mindlly leave the wick on the PCB when you fire it up to test. It makes really pretty sparkles - kinda sounds like bacon cooking too.:nono:
Voice of experience talking!

 

[toxcrusadr]

Ouch.

So, on this wick thing, you just get the solder to melt and stick the end of the wick in it? Is the wick supposed to be fluxed? I seem to remember not getting it to 'wick'.

 

[Isotonic]

You need a bit more heat for wick. I don't think it damages the board because the wick acts as a heat sink. I use wick when I need to desolder and it leaves the board very clean. I have found the brand Chem-wick to be a superior quality wick.

 

[shimniok]

Ouch.

So, on this wick thing, you just get the solder to melt and stick the end of the wick in it? Is the wick supposed to be fluxed? I seem to remember not getting it to 'wick'.

Place wick onto the blob of solder you want to remove. Put hot soldering iron down on top of wick pressing it against the blob. Wick has flux in it. It is braided copper so it literally will wick the solder out, once it begins to flow. Now slide the wick and soldering iron off the solder point. May need to repeat this a couple times to remove all solder.

Michael

 

[mid-fi-ry]

Hi
Im not trying to be a prick in anyway, but if this is your first soldering iron, I would practice before you go balls out on your Advents, AR's and the like.

A good way to practice, is get a broken piece of electronics and practice soldering and desoldering joints on a circuit board. You might want to then move onto making some rca cables or something or get a basic electronics kit. Get a feel for it.

Just a tip, I hate to see you fry those nice vintage pieces and waste money on new caps etc. You will be sorry.