I performed surgery on my $30 TA2020 T-amp

[marcusekner]

Now I've got about half of my ordered things, so I have started phase 2 of upgrading this amp.

I used my new silver plated copper speaker wire for the connections this time between the pcb and input capacitors. Along with 3,8% silver solder, really nice to work with because it's melting temp was pretty low.

I replaced the 1uf huge MKP's with some smaller WIMA MKS 2,2uf (the red square thingees by the volume knob) for input caps, and also removed some tiny (maybe 0,1uf) additional caps from there aswell, as they were probably there to compensate for the rubbish electrolytic input caps that were there originally.

I also replaced the four 20k ohm resistors after the input caps with some Dale ones. Don't know exactly what they are, but they seem a lot better than the original resistors.

The results, then: The input caps gave me all the bass back, without them realising my fear of it being too much bass. And removing the additional baby input caps probably did a lot too as the sound is so much more controlled and heavy now. Now the amp packs more punch than ever.

For the resistors I did not know what to expect, but I remember that i could hear some noise when I turned the volume up with no audio input and lay my ear near the tweeter. That is all gone now. Not just less noisy - it really is DEAD quiet. So very dead quiet that I was afraid the amp itself was dead when I first fired it up with no audio input.

The sound is also much less distorted and ear fatigue comes at much greater volume than before. Overall I am really very happy.

To come: I am still replacing the original electrolytics on the power line to some Philips ones, just waiting for them to arrive. Also I am planning on replacing all other resistors in the amp to better ones. The diodes might be swapped aswell as the output capacitors. I am also going to solder wire where it's possible, instead of using the lousy pcb copper.

Replacing the caps and resistors today was a PITA because I haven't gotten my desoldering pump

EDIT: Almost forgot! The top cover comes on now because the newest input caps actually fits the amp! I am also thinking of experimenting with paper in oil caps in the later stages of the amp's development. Are they as good sounding as I've heard or would it be best to stick to polyester/polypropylene caps?

 

[Cogsinister]

Looking good......keep us updated........

 

[marcusekner]

Looking good......keep us updated........

I just told my mom (I am still a teenager, don't worry) I had been working on the amplifier tonight. "That old one?" she asked. "That little thing?" she then asked, when I pointed her to the right box. Then she went out of the room, I started listening to some music and she comes back into the room, stands and looks at the speakers for a while and then asks me "How much did you spend this time?"

 

[Cogsinister]

I just told my mom (I am still a teenager, don't worry) I had been working on the amplifier tonight. "That old one?" she asked. "That little thing?" she then asked, when I pointed her to the right box. Then she went out of the room, I started listening to some music and she comes back into the room, stands and looks at the speakers for a while and then asks me "How much did you spend this time?"

Awww, moms are great.......

 

[marcusekner]

Today I replaced the power buffer caps. I got the Philips 470uf electrolytes in the mail today so I knew what todays work would be. I had checked the size before I bought them and just as I thought, they are exactly as big as the original ones. I also replaced the 0.1uf ceramic caps with some 2.2uf WIMA polyesters too.

On the back side of the pcb, on each buffer cap, I put little multilayer ceramic caps aswell. 0.22uf for the big Philips electrolytes, 0,047uf for the little WIMA polyesters.

I also replaced the copper wire between the audio input jack and the volume pot with silver plated wire, just because I can, and because I like that silver has the highest conductivity.

1. Red rectangle: The new 2.2uf Wimas
2. Orange rectangle: The new 470uf Philips's
3. Red circle: A glimpse of the Dale resistors
4. Orange circle: The Wima input capacitors

The results: I haven't played it loud yet, but I am happy with the sound so far, just as before. This is probably not the most important mod since I already have a powerful PSU. I want to hear a difference, I tell myself that it sounds more controlled, especially in the mids and highs, but I can't be sure yet. It's probably my mind playing tricks on me at this point. And the silver wire probably didn't do much either, but it can't have done nothing. All the small differences packed together will probably make it sound more satisfying, I hope.

 

[marcusekner]

I got the 0,22uf Wima caps today. Six of them, intended to replace the output caps. After some soldering and squeezing, they all fit snugly under the top cover.

I did not expect much from this, I just did it because I had the things and wanted to at least believe I had made it better. But WHAT A DIFFERENCE. This was by far the greatest improvement so far. I can honestly say I can hear more details than before.

The soundstage is much bigger now. I listen mostly to rock, and I can now hear bi-sounds (think of them as sound piggy-back-riding on the main sound) to the voice of the singer, and especially to the guitars. Before everything was so flat and dull and I actually got sick and bored of it yesterday. This was a well needed refreshment.

 

[voltcontrol]

Thanks for the buy link again Marcus, I got mine in today.
I probably will not mod them (any time soon anyway) because they sound amazingly good and go oud enough for all my pusposes, did not expect this..).

 

[gewoonmaf]

Nice little amp, and I like the concept of upgrading as a learning excercise. Very interesting thread!

 

[voltcontrol]

You could even start the journey yourself for about 30 Dollars.

Hij klinkt echt goed, dit beestje.

 

[marcusekner]

Thanks for the buy link again Marcus, I got mine in today.
I probably will not mod them (any time soon anyway) because they sound amazingly good and go oud enough for all my pusposes, did not expect this..).

When you decide you want to mod them, go for the four 20kohm input resistors and the output- and input caps, that's what has made the greatest difference for me. Just google TA2020 datasheet and download the pdf, it has been of great help for me.

Are you running bi-amp or quad stereo? Glad you're happy with them anyways! Oh, and are you running them with a 12v, 14v or any other psu?

Nice little amp, and I like the concept of upgrading as a learning excercise. Very interesting thread!

Thank you! I have sure learned a lot, and I am hoping one day I have gathered enough knowledge to build my own amplifiers from scratch.

 

[voltcontrol]

Bough them for bi-ampuse with the Tannoys in the previous pics, but one is sufficient.

The psu states; 10/16V 2.2/3.2A as output. Works like a charm, but all psu's in the right range did. No need to go crazy on this subject like I suggested earlies.

This is my temporary setup with it;

I'm totally about T-amps, where can I join the fanclub?

 

[voltcontrol]

What do you (guys) actually use to power the(se) T amps? Any noticable differences?

And I have a "D'oh" question> Will this work? ; for my portable T amp radio or do you have better suggestions?

 

[marcusekner]

I am using an ac adapter for a laptop, It gives me 14v and 4a. As for bi-amping, be aware that you must not bridge the outputs on a t-amp. It will damage the amplifier, according to some (maybe even Tripath themselves, I think).

 

[westend]

T-amps, gotta' love 'em Here is a mobile application, the parade bike. Your mods are showing what this little chip is capable of doing and it is not inconsiderable. Great sound from a small package.

There are a few web pages up that discuss the modifications of the Tripath 2020. When I have a little more time, I'll dig them up. I seem to recall that inductor replacement is one of the major mods from the stock amp.

FWIW, the "parade bike" T-amp is powered by a small SLA 12v. battery (salvaged from emergency lighting fixture) and a wallwart 12 v. charger is wired and switched to the battery. Since I have the older version of T-amp with the AA battery pack, I left them in for the odd chance that the SLA battery discharges, completely.

Links:
Michael Mardis site

Decibel Dungeon

41 hz

 

[gychang]

The benefits of knowing how to tweak internals on stuff like that IMO is invaluable though. I honestly think after $60 worth of tweaks that it will likely exceed the sound of something you could buy for around $100 used as well...

I know $10 worth of well placed speaker tweaks usually equates to about an extra $100 that I could spend on a 'better' used set to be comparable in value/performance.

I second cost effective improvement.