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ID help on some Kenwood champagne colored rack-mounted components?

Maybe I'm being dense, but I don't get what you are wanting to do...

Sorry - that's my fault - I should've posted a pic when I asked the question. See below. Would just a dab of Gorilla Glue suffice? Or is there something specific that I should use?

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I suppose it is possible that it is frozen. It may be possible to free it up with some disassembly.

See below for a pic of the pot in case there's anything you can see from the outside (though it doesn't seem likely). If I do need to disassemble, my first step would be to desolder the wires from the pot itself, correct? (Take many photos prior to desoldering and put tags on every wire so I know where they go back on.) Or should I try to get the pot out with the wires still in tact? I've soldered lamps with good success on a number of units, but that's about it.

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Thanks a lot.
 
Sorry - that's my fault - I should've posted a pic when I asked the question. See below. Would just a dab of Gorilla Glue suffice? Or is there something specific that I should use?
Oh! Forgot about those.

I hate Gorilla Glue...that foaming crap is too messy. A couple of dabs of 5-minute epoxy on the plastic piece and hold it in place till it sets. Done it many times on these pieces.
See below for a pic of the pot in case there's anything you can see from the outside (though it doesn't seem likely). If I do need to disassemble, my first step would be to desolder the wires from the pot itself, correct? (Take many photos prior to desoldering and put tags on every wire so I know where they go back on.) Or should I try to get the pot out with the wires still in tact? I've soldered lamps with good success on a number of units, but that's about it.
I don't know what to tell you about the volume pot. I've never had to pull one of these apart, even after working on 20 or more 700C preamps. I'd probably see if some penetrating oil could be dribbled into the bearing from the front of the shaft (probably can do this without even taking it loose from the front chassis piece)...that might allow you to get it freed up without having to desolder and disassemble, as it does look like desoldering will be a requirement for disassembly.
 
Unless they tried to clean it with super glue ... LOL !!!!
Only kidding ... couldn't resist...

See ya

John
 
A couple of dabs of 5-minute epoxy
...
penetrating oil could be dribbled into the bearing from the front of the shaft

Thanks EW - I'll pick up some epoxy and some penetrating oil and see if that does the trick.

Unless they tried to clean it with super glue

That's pretty much what it feels like. Here's to hoping the oil can work some magic. I'll report back as soon as I'm able to try that.
 
A quick update and some pics. The epoxy worked great for re-fastening the plastic inserts for where the buttons come through the faceplate. The 700m had the same problem, so all is well there.

I've tried one application of the penetrating oil (let it sit overnight), but still can't budge the 700c volume pot. I will try another tonight and let it sit again (and maybe be a little more generous with the oil this time).

I did clean up the faces and took some pics, so I figured I'd toss a couple up. Both of them still have their cords wrapped as they would have left the factory. The insides were immaculate. Virtually no dust - even on the interior black covers. The heatsinks on the 700m were black and shiny. I know looks can be deceiving and I haven't hooked them up to anything yet, but I'm more than happy that they're spotless on the inside - and man, they are sure shined up good on the outside.

Here's the 700c inside and out:

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And the 700m:

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Looks very nice.

Keep working with that volume pot...really, at this point, you have nothing to lose.
 
You might take the knob off and make damn sure the pot is actually in the center position, then with a good pair of channelocks directly on the shaft, try to break it loose. What are you actually using to lube it?
 
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It works! :D

Another dose of penetrating oil (I was using PB Blaster as recommended in this thread), let it sit, and then with vice grips I very gently started to rotate the post. It was smooth and easy at that point. How wonderful!

I didn't have time to do more than that before work, but hopefully I can get it hooked up this evening and finally see how they sound. I'm guessing there may be some crackle to some of the pots, but hopefully nothing more than that.
 
I love a happy ending! Glad the penetrating oil worked, and I hope you enjoy your new 700-Series gear. It's pretty special stuff!

(Especially after you send 'em to EchoWars!)
 
You are a lucky guy! I see that your 700c has film caps in the buffer stage both input and output, which is awesome. If you want to be minimalistic and restore it without worrying about mylar versus polypropylene you could leave them alone and save some $$ as well.

Can you please take one close up of the tone control board? I see it populated with some film caps that my 700c does not have. Curious as to what those values are. The phono section has different film caps from my unit which uses 2.2 green square boxes for all 4 of them.

Congrats on getting it work!
 
I love a happy ending!

It's definitely a big step in the right direction, but I'm not counting my chickens just yet. Still haven't heard the new toys yet.


Can you please take one close up of the tone control board?

I'll do my best.

Anyone know of suitable replacements for the feet for the 700c/m? Looks like they had been removed in order to fit in the audio rack.
 
I'll do my best.

Thank you very much. I took a close look at the buffer board pic and it looks like the output coupling cap is electrolytic - you still have to change them to film caps. The extra film cap is for power supply decoupling. Time to add those in my unit!
 
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Thanks for the links guys - EW's may be the way to go.

As promised, film caps on the tone board:

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Hopefully that gives you what you're looking for. The ones out of focus are the same as those in the foreground (sorry - didn't realize when I was taking it that my depth of field was so shallow).

I finally got a chance to listen to these for the first time this evening. I am a happy, happy man. I'll need to spend some time cleaning the controls, but I just couldn't wait any longer. Goodness. Just sweet music. Nothing else. It's wonderful.

Here's a pic of the kids playing nice with the Cornwalls. I say kids because I count the wallpaper background on my cell phone as the equivalent to a picture in a wallet. The 700m's green eyes smile back at me whenever I need to make a call.

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Thanks for the links guys - EW's may be the way to go.

As promised, film caps on the tone board:

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Hopefully that gives you what you're looking for. The ones out of focus are the same as those in the foreground (sorry - didn't realize when I was taking it that my depth of field was so shallow).

Thanks ghettofunk. That was helpful. I figured out what the small film caps were. My 700c does not have a .01uF across the 1uF cap in the tone control feedback circuit, but I have a 1uF film there (mylar as that was the only one which would fit in there without looking like a crappy mod job - anything bigger can rip PCB tracks as well and we don't want that). And the two films in the middle are totally missing along with the tracks on my board - these are the power supply bypass .01uF's. I guess they revised the board. Your serial number like you said is 950126. My 700c is 060125. If there is a logical progression to these serial numbers I am guessing the .01 PS bypasses were added later. Maybe someone knows here - most likely Glenn.

Enjoy your 700c/m. Do send them to EW. You will be amazed what a makeover does to these. Congratulations again :yes:
 
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