iMac -> FOSI V3 -> AR18LS

[killsapo]

Ciao,
my integrated amp Technics SU-8044 is dying, and the cost of having it checked (only checked, not fixed) is just not worth.

I was intrigued and looking also at some modern class D (Fosi, etc) of which I have 0 knowledge, just for the sake of desktop estate space and curiosity (I like good sounding music but I wouldn't define myself as audiophile)

would I need a preamp, too? is my understanding that the fosi (or any class D amp) is only a power amp (pardon a noob, please!)

what would be your suggestion? I mainly use the amp hooked to my iMac (through the output jack which operates as analog but also digital) and a pair of Acoustic Research AR 18LS on the output side. I mainly stream lossless from Apple Music.

also: powerconsumption-wise which amp would be less costly? a class D or my old class A/B?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Dswankey]

You might find this current thread helpful also see below "Similar threads" as there a bunch of others too

Fosi Audio V3 Mono

Following on from my post about the ZA3 - I have managed to get my hands on a pre-release of the new V3 Mono from Fosi Audio and decided to write up a review: V3 Mono - Stunning Monoblock from Fosi Audio Lets get into the details of the new Fosi Audio V3 Monoblock Power Amplifier Fosi Audio...

www.audiokarma.org

 

[Gigantic]

Ciao,
my integrated amp Technics SU-8044 is dying, and the cost of having it checked (only checked, not fixed) is just not worth.

I was intrigued and looking also at some modern class D (Fosi, etc) of which I have 0 knowledge, just for the sake of desktop estate space and curiosity (I like good sounding music but I wouldn't define myself as audiophile)

would I need a preamp, too? is my understanding that the fosi (or any class D amp) is only a power amp (pardon a noob, please!)

what would be your suggestion? I mainly use the amp hooked to my iMac (through the output jack which operates as analog but also digital) and a pair of Acoustic Research AR 18LS on the output side. I mainly stream lossless from Apple Music.

also: powerconsumption-wise which amp would be less costly? a class D or my old class A/B?

Thanks in advance!

if you're using a single Fosi V3 or ZA 3 and just one source, you won't really need a preamp. However, you'll get much better sound if you use an outboard DAC like a Schiit Modi 3+ or an iFi Zen, instead of the 1/8" phono jack. If you want to add more sources, you'll want a preamp. They can be as simple as a volume knob and selector switches (passive pre), which can be had for under $100, or cost as much as several thousands. In the past year, I've had a Schiit Sys, a passive preamp, a Schiit Saga, a preamp with a tube buffer and currently have a schiit Freya+.

 

[RVT1K]

I have two Fosi V3's but feed them with a pre-amp.

But I think you can do what you are asking and simply use the volume knob on the Fosi. I don't know anything about a iMac, you may need some sort of adapter cables to go from the iMac to the RCA inputs of the Fosi.

The Fosi has a small footprint but there is the big, outboard power supply to consider, it has to go somewhere.

And due to the high efficiency of Class-D operation, it almost certain that the Fosi will consume less power.

 

[killsapo]

Thanks for all you quick replies, I'm sure I'll miss my Technics SU-8044 but at least I'll get almost the same quality with a significantly smaller footprint.

 

[killsapo]

I have two Fosi V3's but feed them with a pre-amp.

But I think you can do what you are asking and simply use the volume knob on the Fosi. I don't know anything about a iMac, you may need some sort of adapter cables to go from the iMac to the RCA inputs of the Fosi.

The Fosi has a small footprint but there is the big, outboard power supply to consider, it has to go somewhere.

And due to the high efficiency of Class-D operation, it almost certain that the Fosi will consume less power.

at this time I just plug a 3.5 to 2RCA cable to the headphone port on my iMac to feed my Techincs A/B amp, so I guess it'll be working on the fosi too... do you suggest using banana plugs for the speakers, or can I just use the naked end of the wires?

(the [32v] power adapter will go under the desk on the floor, so no big issue, hoping the cable will be longer than 80cm...)

 

[RVT1K]

at this time I just plug a 3.5 to 2RCA cable to the headphone port on my iMac to feed my Techincs A/B amp, so I guess it'll be working on the fosi too... do you suggest using banana plugs for the speakers, or can I just use the naked end of the wires?

(the [32v] power adapter will go under the desk on the floor, so no big issue, hoping the cable will be longer than 80cm...)

Yes, feeding the Fosi the same way as your Technics is just fine.

My cords are all bundled up so I can't comment on how much reach there is. But between the power input cord and the power output cord, you should have lots of flexibility.

Banana jacks are fine but make note that the speaker terminals on the Fosi are not spaced so that a double-banana jack will fit, you need to use individual jacks. Bare wire is also fine as long as it is not too large to fit through the holes provided. And be VERY careful that no strands are flying around potentially shorting to the chassis or other channel. What I did was solder ring connectors on my speaker wire.

 

[OldJBL]

Ciao,
my integrated amp Technics SU-8044 is dying, and the cost of having it checked (only checked, not fixed) is just not worth.

I was intrigued and looking also at some modern class D (Fosi, etc) of which I have 0 knowledge, just for the sake of desktop estate space and curiosity (I like good sounding music but I wouldn't define myself as audiophile)

would I need a preamp, too? is my understanding that the fosi (or any class D amp) is only a power amp (pardon a noob, please!)

what would be your suggestion? I mainly use the amp hooked to my iMac (through the output jack which operates as analog but also digital) and a pair of Acoustic Research AR 18LS on the output side. I mainly stream lossless from Apple Music.

also: powerconsumption-wise which amp would be less costly? a class D or my old class A/B?

Thanks in advance!

I have a Fosi ZA3 which is much like a V3 from a function aspect in that it is an amp with a gain (i.e. volume) control. My main source for listening is a Windows 11 PC. I wanted to have a DAC that offered connections for USB, optical, Bluetooth and coax while having remote control capability for source switching and volume. I ended up using a SMSL C100 (link here) that cost around $120. I have the computer connected via USB, TV via optical, a Denon DVD 2910 via the coax connection and my phone via Bluetooth. I am very pleased with this setup and it sounds very good. There are countless DACs to be had from $50 to $5,000 and higher. I use a Windows program called PC Equalizer to provide tone control but never have a need for it. The ZA3 provides a very transparent output to a pair of JBL L100t3 speakers in a manner that I don't need tone controls at all. I suggest that you look at the ZA3 (link here) before buying a V3. It can accommodate RCA and XLR inputs and has a sub output that runs from 20hz to 300hz. It also has a 12v trigger output. Fosi has sales on the ZA3 for around $135 with the 48v-5A power supply. It can be bought off of ebay at anytime for this price. Fosi has fast shipping, with tracking, and everything I have bought from them arrives in 5-7 days.

 

[killsapo]

Yes, feeding the Fosi the same way as your Technics is just fine.

My cords are all bundled up so I can't comment on how much reach there is. But between the power input cord and the power output cord, you should have lots of flexibility.

Banana jacks are fine but make note that the speaker terminals on the Fosi are not spaced so that a double-banana jack will fit, you need to use individual jacks. Bare wire is also fine as long as it is not too large to fit through the holes provided. And be VERY careful that no strands are flying around potentially shorting to the chassis or other channel. What I did was solder ring connectors on my speaker wire.

Thanks, your suggestions are very much appreciated! Especially about speakers connections, I noticed FOSI also has banana plugs, I'll just go with theirs, don't need anything fancy

 

[killsapo]

There are countless DACs to be had from $50 to $5,000 and higher. I use a Windows program called PC Equalizer to provide tone control but never have a need for it

as far as DAC goes the iMac internal one is more than enough for me... for equalizing and tailoring the sound I'll just use one of the most wonderful apps in the world (unfortunately Mac only) which allows me also to run also audio plugins and much more: https://rogueamoeba.com/soundsource/ (in case you'll be ever using a mac)

 

[killsapo]

(btw today it's some kind of Prime Day and the V3+32v power adpater is around 87 euros here in Italy... so time's running )

 

[RVT1K]

Thanks, your suggestions are very much appreciated! Especially about speakers connections, I noticed FOSI also has banana plugs, I'll just go with theirs, don't need anything fancy

You are very welcome!

Good luck and have fun.

 

[OldJBL]

as far as DAC goes the iMac internal one is more than enough for me... for equalizing and tailoring the sound I'll just use one of the most wonderful apps in the world (unfortunately Mac only) which allows me also to run also audio plugins and much more: https://rogueamoeba.com/soundsource/ (in case you'll be ever using a mac)

The main reasons I bought the DAC is for volume control and source switching via a remote.

 

[OldJBL]

(btw today it's some kind of Prime Day and the V3+32v power adpater is around 87 euros here in Italy... so time's running )

I would suggest getting the 48v-5A power supply instead of the 32V one. Doing this makes a big difference in power output from the amp if this is a concern for you.