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Improving on the La Scala design?

Mine are 18“ tall, 24-1/4 wide and 25-1/4 deep, but I did a custom build to fit a 15“ passive radiator in the back. I have 1-1/2“ space above the L-Mahl and below the PRV WG-4550 on the motorboard. If you’re not doing the passive, you could get by with 15-1/2“ high motorboards or less, if you overlap the tweeter and mid horns.
Could I get by with an inch above and below and a 1/2 in in between. I’m not sure what your suggestion of overlapping is, no space?

I was going to go with a 3/4 in mdf, hdf(if available) or plywood baffle. Is there a preference? Also I was going to use a router for a channel to fit the baffle, recessed enough to make a magnetic grill fit flush. I’m just trying to get all the details figured out as much as I can before I measure 5 times and cut 2 or 3! lol! Any suggestions are much appreciated!
 
I have no space between, overlapping would place the flange of the L-MAHL atop the flange of the mid. The less space the better

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I have no space between, overlapping would place the flange of the L-MAHL atop the flange of the mid. The less space the better

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Thanks for all the help sir, I’ll go that route. 1 1/2 in is probably safe above and below. What material did you use for the baffle? What coating did you use for the horn and how did you secure the mumps? Did you go the router route? What depth? Sorry for all the questions, that should be it. I’ll dynokat the horn.
 
I used Guitar pickguard material for the mumps and cut them with a router, using an MDF form, putting a 45° bevel on them. I used CA glue to attach them and filled with bondo and spot putty. I finished the horns with black krylon, glitter and automotive clear coat- I paint guitars for a living and specialize in glitter finishes, so it seemed fitting. The motor boards are 1“ birch ply. I didn’t put any Dynamat on the mid horn, i didn’t think it was necessary after the mumps and exterior finish I put on it. It has not shown any resonances in measurements.
 
I’ve had all the parts for a couple of weeks and am getting started on this tomorrow. Does anyone have top hat dimensions that will fit the PRV Audio WG45-50 2" 90 x 40 and the LMAHL horn. If not, I’ll draw something up tomorrow.
I was able to fit the same horns in my upper cabinet with a 14.5" height, so a 13-1/8" baffle height. This was with overlapping the LMAHL 1/2" into the WG4550.
 
The Grand Papi of the LaScala...

And Fantasia too which Disney gambled on big time. I remember see this as a kid and never forgot it. I would periodically revisit it through the years and I wonder how many here have never seen this or even heard of it. If you are one of those you owe it to yourself to see a good copy of it and you can thank me later. This reminds me it is time to watch it again.
 
I don't recall seeing the entire movie. I just bought a remastered DVD so we will see what it looks like on a 75" TV and great sound system!

Disney and Looney Tunes were always ahead of their time with animation.
 
Have you ever heard the AL5’s? Do you think these modified LaScala’s can compete, or possibly better?
I would argue that they’re significantly better, especially considering that the AL6 has many of the attributes of these modded LS, or in my case, something well beyond the original design parameters. The 2” mid horn and driver is a significant departure from what preceded it: the shorter horn and larger aperture negates the shoutiness inherent to its predecessors, for a more lifelike, less forced mid range. The DSP units that many of us are using smoothes the response of the bass bin in particular, but the mid and treble as well for a flatter, less resonant response and either by using a 24dB, 3rd order or “zeroth order” crossover filter, phase response is more linear, with superior soundstage and imaging. It’s not clear what filters Roy has engaged in the AL-6, but the reports from Axpona were underwhelming. Big score for the DIY squad on this front. Finally, the DIY port mods employed allow bass response to 32-35hz using 4” tubes and in the case of my passive radiator, down to 20Hz, whereas the AL-5 and prior fall off at 51-55Hz and the AL-6 might hit somewhere between 40-45 Hz. Another score for the DIY squad. Lastly, the tweeters, either the MAHL variants or those with Celestion drivers offer performance in the worst case scenario that is not worse than the AL5, but in the case of those using elliptical tractrix lenses as in the MAHL and other tweeter horns, have significantly better dispersion and the Mylar diaphragms utilized by B&C and others deliver better detail than polyamide drivers in the AL5 and far superior to the venerable k-77.

That said, a lot will be dependent on the ability of those doing the mods to execute them properly, particularly in regard to DSP tuning, but it’s entirely possible to surpass the SQ of the AL-5 and prior and even the AL6 using the formula presented here.
 
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