Incomplete Kit-- Finale - A Dynaudio Kit

[robstaples]

I'm guilty of starting projects and not finishing them. This time , it's a speaker kit designed(?) / sold by Madisound in the late 1990's. I got as far as the wood parts cutout (1" MFD) and holes cut. Got plans for veneering but having never done it, I was intimidated by the process so I stopped and went on with something else. Metal working: made 1" thick base plates for this pair.
I am curious if others have built this kit and are they happy with the results. I have since purchased speakers that perform better than my ears can handle ( Dynaudio in cherry finish. Tough woodworking act to follow). But retired and more time to get them done.
Some construction questions: I now have a big enough bandsaw to resaw cherry wood to cover the mdf with solid. Thickness would depend on the resaw success. I question whether it would expand /contract if 1/4" to 3/8" ( 6-9 mm) thick when width is 15" (400mm) and 5' tall? If anyone can point me to technics of finish speaker carpentry, that would be great.
My plan would be to 45-45 box over butt joint mfd box.
I've included the original descriptor of the kit. 4 way with Passive radiator
I upgraded (?) the upper end to Esotec D260 and T330D. Someday, I may find out how they sound.
Thanks in advance

 

[robstaples]

Added Jpeg.

 

[homebrew]

Quite a project. But the design is sound and the components are of high quality. I would be a little concerned about changing the original D-28 tweeter for the Esotec, as well as the dome mid for the T330D without making crossover modifications. It might work though.
Construction with 1: MDF should certainly be solid enough. Do not deviate from the original cabinet volume. If you do you'll change cabinet tuning and tuning of the passive radiator.

Veneering the cabinet could be done with a lot less work if you use paper backed veneer instead of resawing cherry for the whole cabinet. HOWEVER if you resaw solid wood and use bookmarked pairs for the front baffle and the top, that would be stunning. If you can saw the cherry down to about 1/8" that would be fine.

Plenty of veneer tutorials on You Tube. Techniques for applying paper backed can in volve contact cement (tried it, had some success, but don't like it). The iron on method is widely used, but it wouldn't work on the front veneer as it's too thick. My personal choice would be to use paper backed for the sides and back, applied with slower setting veneer glue, cauls, and lots of clamps. Maybe a good idea to practice on a small piece first.

Finally if you're going to used grills, before you veneer the front, sink some neodymium magnets under the veneer and line them up with reversed polarity magnets in the grill frame. I'd recommend 6 pairs per cabinet/grill. https://www.parts-express.com/Neodymium-Disc-Magnet-3-8-x-3-16-320-016?quantity=1

 

[robstaples]

Home brew, Thanks for your thoughts. When I ordered the different drivers, their rep made crossover changes and suggestions( upgraded in two steps). I will need to review that. I like your magnet suggestion. I don’t have any plan for grill cloth. It would be nice to match or near match the Dynaudio material. I went all in with a vacuum bag and pump for the veneer but still stopped. First step will be practice at resawing . My boards are 14” wide but I may rip them down to be practical on the bandsaw.
Side question: why are speakers typically or sometimes mounted on spikes? I can figure that raises the psi at 4 points to be really high, but why is that a good thing?
Thanks

 

[homebrew]

The theory as I unterstand it is spikes stabilise speakers so they don't rock back and forth from deep bass signals. The results are increased clarity and imaging. Now whether or not spikes actually help is debatable. But they can't hurt (except the linoleum or hardwood floors).