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Infinity QLS1 recapping ?

Dave1027 said:
1400 and 1100uf? What are those used for? The only thing I can think of is a sub (sub)woofer with a crossover frequency of say 15 hz? :yikes:

You usually see those kind of values in power supplies trying to filter out 60 hz.
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Watkins woofer LRC circuit...
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=2870713&postcount=115

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Do you have a meter that will read capacitance? I'd be interested to see what your readings are on those big 'ol caps. I've got to put the (6) 200uf caps (paralleled to 1200uf) in my 3's this weekend and will see what they are at. The (2) 600uf paralleled caps I took out of each RS-III together read 1400uf on one side and 1700uf on the other side. Waaayyyy off from the 1200uf "rated" capacitance. They aren't physically a "large" cap...maybe 2.5" tall. But, in all fairness, the Bennic electrolytic caps are off about 10 to 15%, too. The 1000uf caps I got both read around 1120 each and the 200uf caps read around 240uf or so.
 
avguytx said:
Do you have a meter that will read capacitance? I'd be interested to see what your readings are on those big 'ol caps.
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Nope. Those particular caps in the photo came out of my QLS1's as I received them and are stamped 1400uf and 1600uf which didn't match the schematic anyway. I received a 1100uf and 1400uf from cdfac that he measured within spec.
 
the big caps i've tested from these crossovers are all noticeably over-spec'd in capacitance. i've also found the Bennics to be somewhat high, which can make the recap trickier - sometimes it helps to buy extras and match the lower valued ones.

as far as i can tell, they made one real revision to the QLS1. at the same time they changed the front of the speaker to walnut veneer from black whatever, they also changed those big cap values from the 1400/1600 to 1100/1400, and i think they also went to the lighter-colored woofer (without 1.5" extender ring) and midbass at that point too. there were probably some small overlaps between these changes, but generally speaking QLS1's seem to fall in one of those two categories.
 
jt45 said:
OK the point where the wire contacts the post or brad on each end is that soldered or just wrapped around the brad. I couldnt see a way to clean under that lip at that connection, I may give it another shot though and I will post a pic when i do.
Do you recoat these after cleaning with deoxit ? if so what do you use ?
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I haven't put any coating on the coils, maybe Caig Faderlube would work? Since mine are in a climate controlled environment I haven't worried about it. I didn't worry about the connection of the coils at the brads either, if you turn the wipers all the way to the brads you should get no output anyway.

I have a feeling you were on the right track JT. I'm thinking my Emits need a re-solder too in order to lower the resistance but I haven't checked.
 
banffskiing said:
If I recall, I used 7 200uf non-polar electrolytic caps to make the 1400uf and 5 220uf to make the 1100uf. Can't really tell you what kind of improvement the re-cap made because I never listened to them B4 refurbing them. One thing that did make a huge diff was installing new Watkins woofers about a month ago. The surround had came loose on one of them and caused a nasty vibration at certain frequencys. I really only expected the noise to disappear but the bass is much stronger and has more punch. Also when your wife can tell the diff. you know it's not your imagination.
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Did you use a poly or paper coned replacement woofer?
Thanks!
 
Concerning your EMITs, I'd check the ohms on each of them. I found that most of the ones on my Q2's needed the solder re-flowed because the readings were too high and variable. After disassembling each one and re-flowing all the joints they all tested and sounded much better. I re-did them all just to not have any future changes in the ones that did not need re-flowed. Since this happened to my aged Q2's it's likely that the same has occurred in your situation.

L.D.
 
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