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Infinity RSe Score!

Well, since markb's pic looks pretty close to mine, I think it's factory OEM for some reason different than the schematic. Maybe Rev.1 instead of Rev.0? I'll post Infinities response when I get it.
 
It's undoubtedly factory...looks a lot like the crossovers in my RSb's (right down to the unglued inductors...). Glue them back up, spritz the pot(s) with DeOxit, refoam the woofers and be done with them. The only cap that could really have degraded over time is that small electolytic that is across the sandstone resistor. Frankly, I doubt there is anything wrong with it, I think the main enemy of components like that is heat. The mylar caps (white and yellow tubes) ought to be fine, so don't make more work for yourself than you need to...unless you like that sort of thing!

--Bob
 
Bob E --

Sounds like the exact idea I was thinking, not because it's too technically difficult, but because I'd have to remove the crossover and do a lot of extra work that's probably un-necessary. I'm going to wait until I hear from Infinity, but that seems like a good plan for now.
 
This is Infinity's answer. In other words, they don't say much or answer half of my questions.

Infinity Tech Systems said:
I would not recommend making any changes to your crossover network. Your loudspeaker has a later version of the network that was not documented with enough accuracy to help you with exact values. If you want to test the parts, lift one lead from each part and test it with an LCR bridge. Coils will last virtually forever unless they are burnt up, and capacitors should have the value & voltage printed on them should replacement become necessary.
Click to expand...

I went back and asked them again for a PDF of the crossover schematic, since mine is close to markb's but still not exact. We'll see if they reply.
 
And here's Infinity's second response:

Infinity Tech Systems said:
From what I understand, that is the problem. Your crossover layout does not match the documents from engineering, all of which are hand drawn documents after the initial changes were made. Your safest bet is to compare with the other crossover.
Click to expand...
Isn't that nice to know that systems were sent out with undocumented "features"?

Markb, buddy, I guess we go it alone.
 
These are first on my list for refoam but it'll probably be a week or two before I get to them. Haven't heard the EMIT's so I'm looking forward to getting these done. Hope yours go back together OK they look like they're worth the effort.
 
Scorpion8, Markb,

If you guys could trace your circuit, and put it into a schematic to post here, some of the more knowledgeable folks could perhaps make some sense of it and determine the xover frequencies and the "order" or "slope" of the system. I am just beginning to study this stuff and could take a stab at it (homework anyone ?), but it would be nice to have the supervision of some masters.

I suspect the additional components from the original design was to control the upper and lower frequencies of the woofer.

Perhaps we can develop the unofficial documentation for these to correct for Infinities laziness???

What do you think?
 
I think that's a wonderful idea, and I'll do it. I'm traveling for my job right now (on my way to Shemya at the end of the Aleutians Chain of Alaskan islands near Russia) but I'll do mine as soon as I get back (~3 Nov).
 
Here's a drawing of the crossover in my RSe speaker.I should have used a tripod to take the pic but I think it is readable my coil sybols are also incorrect.
 

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I have a pair of RSa and the crossover looks very similar.....Mine have L-pad for "mid" as well as "high" I think the extra components are for controlling midrange output.

Hope it helps.
 
I just traced out my crossover using markb's schematic, and almost all of it's the same. Mine shows a resisitor dropping across the + and - terminals of the woofer at "6.8k" where his shows a cap. It might be mistaken for a cap as it's round and looks like the other caps, but is denoted as "6.8k" not "6.8u or mF". The pic may help. The huge inductor in the + signal path of the woofer also is "unknown" as nothing is printed or tagged on it anywhere. Also, my cap in that path is printed as "12.5mF" quite plainly.

Hmmmm, maybe I better draw it out and post it.
 
I checked the values and think they are correct if I'm looking at the right components. Her's a pic it may help.
 

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Oddly enough, the mystery deepens. I opened my other enclosure, as that woofer needs to be refoamed also. As it turns out, the crossover looks identical to markb's images and is decidedly different from the crossover in the image I uploaded here. The large cap marked "6.8k" is missing in the second speaker altogether, and replaced by a much smaller metal cap. Plus, the two 0.2mH chokes are actually well secured to the back panel, rather than just hot glued.

I'm pondering replacing both the crossovers with a standard 2-way set for the same crossover point from PartsExpress. Any thoughts?
 
So, looks like there is agreement on the 6.8 uFcap?

I was looking up what the K would be and came across this page which looks mighty informative:

http://xtronics.com/kits/ccode.htm

K means 10% tolerance...from what I can see :scratch2:

Are you guys sure about that parallel circuit of inductor, capacitor, and resistor ???, that is in series with the woofer on the + wire ??? That is one wierd looking circuit, not even a Zobel correction (from my neophyte studying tonight). Any more experienced opinions on this?

Looks like 2nd order (12dB/octave) filter design on both drivers. Funny that the tweeter is not wired out of phase, which is supposed to be typical with this type of design. Maybe that parallel/series-Ind/res/cap circuit is some kind of "Infinity" secret time alignment circuit that bypasses the need for phase inversion....and don't forget to put phasers on stun :D

Heh, some interesting reading here----->> http://sound.westhost.com/lr-passive.htm
 
Yea, I agree on the 6.8uF cap. One question would be why there's a small metal barrel shaped one in one enclosure, and a huge large big cylindrical one in the other.

And as far as the circuit mess before the woofer.... oh yea, I've traced than out a few times. It's there, it's odd, and it doesn't show up on any of the Infinity tech sheets anywhere. Oddly, their tech sheet crossovers are clean and lean, and then they put this jumble of stuff in the box undocumented.

My question for someone with far better crossover experience than me: should I rewire them per the tech sheets, and add in the fuse and l-pad for the EMIT, or just leave them as Infinity designed and built them?
 
This is all Greek to me but I did trace and retrace and trace some more so I was sure to get it right. I will open the other speaker to see if it's the same.

Kencat
Thanks for the links. This is valuable info. that will help in understanding the interworkings.
 
I triple traced mine also. I think ours are identical except for the parts that aren't. :scratch2: I have that one big arse cap labeled as a resistor in the woofer circuit, but we all know it's a cap. Also for some reason one crossover has the two capacitors adding up to 8.5uF and one enclosure has a single cap at 8.5uF. It also looks like your cap value in the woofer network is different from mine, and I triple checked that value. Mod 89 Rev 175, I guess.

An of course very little of this shows up in the tech sheet. :thumbsdn:
 
Scorpion8 said:
My question for someone with far better crossover experience than me: should I rewire them per the tech sheets, and add in the fuse and l-pad for the EMIT, or just leave them as Infinity designed and built them?
Click to expand...

I'm no expert scorpion8....but why not try them as thery are? May as well see how they sound, and enjoy those puppies. You can always try the simpler circuit as a trial later and you'll have something to compare to.

I was reading that Infinity used a complex Inductive/Resistive/Capacitive network on the woofer in the QLS. Maybe they tryed a similar thing on the RSe's. Gotta believe they would not have incurred all the extra cost for no good reasons. The original simpler design may have had problems.

Hmm, looking at what I just wrote, it could be the other way around where they cheapened out and went from complex to simple. :dunno:


Ah hell, fire them up dude :thmbsp:
 
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