I've read a lot of post about people cleaning the inside of their radios. Some of them are in fact saying that giving a bath to the inside of the radio will make it look brand new. What exactly is this process and how do you guys do it? What kind of chemicals do you use and is there a step by step process to do this? I also see a lot of post with equipments pictured posted that really looks brand new. Thanks.
Inside cleaning of radios
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Elbow Grease
In my case it is only Elbow Grease. . . I hosed down a SX-1250 (WD-40) only once. . . Took me 3 months to get over it. . . Never again. . .
Q tips , compressed air, soft brush etc and lots of patience. I think there are some who have an easier way. . .
In my case it is only Elbow Grease. . . I hosed down a SX-1250 (WD-40) only once. . . Took me 3 months to get over it. . . Never again. . .
Q tips , compressed air, soft brush etc and lots of patience. I think there are some who have an easier way. . .
Sandy G
Retired Member
Over in the R-390A forum, some guys recommend Simple Green & then rinse off w/a garden hose. I've even heard of some brave souls putting R-390A sub-assemblies in the family dishwasher...I think that's going a BIT extreme. Plus, most electronic things aren't as sturdy as an R-390A, a classic military "boatanchor". I've always had good luck w/PATIENCE, Q-tips, a soft bristle toothbrush, PATIENCE, rags, 409, Windex, or Simple Green, PATIENCE. Cleaning one up certainly makes it easier to work on, IMHO, & sometimes I think they even play a bit better...<grin>-Sandy G.
Sandy's got it right...
Patience!!
I've done quite a few, and made some painful mistakes along the way...no!, wait! Those are "learning experiences", yeah, that's what I'll call them!
Hopefully I can help you avoid some of the same!
1. Be very careful in your choice of cleaning solutions. The weaker, the better. A few drops of liquid soap in lukewarm water is a good start. Only move on to something stronger, like 409, etc., if you're sure it won't damage whatever you're cleaning.
2. The absolute, highest risk item is a dial glass. Anytime you clean a vintage dial glass with anything more aggressive than gently breathing on it and then using eyeglass tissue, you're taking a chance. Trust me, nothing is more heart-stopping than gently moistening the back side with plain water, gently wiping a paper towel across it, and seeing the paper towel covered with the lettering and numbers that came right off the glass---Fisher KM-60 tuner. Sob!! And that was the SECOND one! The first one I used just lukewarm water and a drop of soap! I thought I was safe with just water! Newer, non-vintage, windex works fine.
3. A special note regarding older radios with bakelite knobs, or bakelite cabinets---Formula 409 and similar cleaners WILL ETCH the surface of bakelite. It's not something you would necessarily notice, unless you started with very nice, shiny knobs. They won't be shiny anymore. Stick with the warm, soapy water.
4. The best cleaner I've found for a metal chassis is a spray can product called Stainless Steel Magic. Thanks to Paul Grzybek at Bizzy Bee Audio for the tip! I've also successfully used most of the spray cleaners like 409, Fantastik, Simple Green, etc. They're all good, and cleaning a chassis is not particularly risky. Don't soak things like transformers, don't use more than necessary, and don't get it inside IF cans, etc. Just wipe thoroughly, and buy lots of Q-tips and cotton swabs, and have a nice selection of old toothbrushes. You'll need them for all the nooks and crannies!
5. Special note: Never use any contact cleaners of any kind on the fins of variable/tuning capacitors. Most contact cleaners are designed to leave a thin film of rust or corrosion inhibitors on metal surfaces after the volatile components have evaporated. This film will most definitely change the dielectric value of the air-dielectric capacitor, and your alignment is screwed. You'll need to use a cleaner to get it off.
6. If you're going to use something very aggressive on a rusty or corroded chassis, like Naval jelly, keep in mind that it will leave the surface color changed, usually to a dull flat grey, so you'll need to do the whole surface if you want it to look consistent. Also, you should remove every removable part before you use it, be extremely careful where you smear it, and be certain to carefully wipe, rinse, wipe, rinse every drop of residue off. My two cents: it's not worth the risk unless you plan to completely strip the chassis of every part, including tube sockets.
7. I know several folks that did the dishwasher thing. Dishwasher detergent is very strong and caustic, and will probably do more damage than you think it will, not counting the fact that you're getting things soaked completely through. A chassis stripped of transformers, chokes, coils...maybe. Any of those thing still on it...probably wouldn't.
8. Don't forget to put a drop of oil on the bearings of the tuning capacitors when you're done.
PATIENCE! This is supposed to be fun, right? No rushing!
I'll try to post a few before & after pics...
Clay
Patience!!
I've done quite a few, and made some painful mistakes along the way...no!, wait! Those are "learning experiences", yeah, that's what I'll call them!
Hopefully I can help you avoid some of the same!
1. Be very careful in your choice of cleaning solutions. The weaker, the better. A few drops of liquid soap in lukewarm water is a good start. Only move on to something stronger, like 409, etc., if you're sure it won't damage whatever you're cleaning.
2. The absolute, highest risk item is a dial glass. Anytime you clean a vintage dial glass with anything more aggressive than gently breathing on it and then using eyeglass tissue, you're taking a chance. Trust me, nothing is more heart-stopping than gently moistening the back side with plain water, gently wiping a paper towel across it, and seeing the paper towel covered with the lettering and numbers that came right off the glass---Fisher KM-60 tuner. Sob!! And that was the SECOND one! The first one I used just lukewarm water and a drop of soap! I thought I was safe with just water! Newer, non-vintage, windex works fine.
3. A special note regarding older radios with bakelite knobs, or bakelite cabinets---Formula 409 and similar cleaners WILL ETCH the surface of bakelite. It's not something you would necessarily notice, unless you started with very nice, shiny knobs. They won't be shiny anymore. Stick with the warm, soapy water.
4. The best cleaner I've found for a metal chassis is a spray can product called Stainless Steel Magic. Thanks to Paul Grzybek at Bizzy Bee Audio for the tip! I've also successfully used most of the spray cleaners like 409, Fantastik, Simple Green, etc. They're all good, and cleaning a chassis is not particularly risky. Don't soak things like transformers, don't use more than necessary, and don't get it inside IF cans, etc. Just wipe thoroughly, and buy lots of Q-tips and cotton swabs, and have a nice selection of old toothbrushes. You'll need them for all the nooks and crannies!
5. Special note: Never use any contact cleaners of any kind on the fins of variable/tuning capacitors. Most contact cleaners are designed to leave a thin film of rust or corrosion inhibitors on metal surfaces after the volatile components have evaporated. This film will most definitely change the dielectric value of the air-dielectric capacitor, and your alignment is screwed. You'll need to use a cleaner to get it off.
6. If you're going to use something very aggressive on a rusty or corroded chassis, like Naval jelly, keep in mind that it will leave the surface color changed, usually to a dull flat grey, so you'll need to do the whole surface if you want it to look consistent. Also, you should remove every removable part before you use it, be extremely careful where you smear it, and be certain to carefully wipe, rinse, wipe, rinse every drop of residue off. My two cents: it's not worth the risk unless you plan to completely strip the chassis of every part, including tube sockets.
7. I know several folks that did the dishwasher thing. Dishwasher detergent is very strong and caustic, and will probably do more damage than you think it will, not counting the fact that you're getting things soaked completely through. A chassis stripped of transformers, chokes, coils...maybe. Any of those thing still on it...probably wouldn't.
8. Don't forget to put a drop of oil on the bearings of the tuning capacitors when you're done.
PATIENCE! This is supposed to be fun, right? No rushing!
I'll try to post a few before & after pics...
Clay
So you think you've seen a smoker's radio??
This was one of the "Before" pics. I'm still kicking myself for getting too excited and cleaning a few spots before taking the first pictures:
This was one of the "Before" pics. I'm still kicking myself for getting too excited and cleaning a few spots before taking the first pictures:
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After cleaning...
The tobacco residue was so thick I actually think it sealed the surface of the paint against oxidation, and protected it. The paint is flawless, the knobs are shiny, it's just amazing. For any Hammar collectors, you will notice the Noise Limiter control under the clock has a stacked double knob with a burgundy knob on top, indicating that this one has the hard-to-find factory Noise Blanker option, raising the total from the original 18 tubes to 21.
The tobacco residue was so thick I actually think it sealed the surface of the paint against oxidation, and protected it. The paint is flawless, the knobs are shiny, it's just amazing. For any Hammar collectors, you will notice the Noise Limiter control under the clock has a stacked double knob with a burgundy knob on top, indicating that this one has the hard-to-find factory Noise Blanker option, raising the total from the original 18 tubes to 21.
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And one of the chassis...
The add-on subchassis on top of the left tuning capacitor cover is the Noise Blanker chassis.
The add-on subchassis on top of the left tuning capacitor cover is the Noise Blanker chassis.
Sandy G
Retired Member
Man, oh man, Clay- Talk about "Lust in my Heart"....Bee-yoo-ti-ful Hammarlund !! Another thing, I'll ALWAYS try cleaning an inconspicuous place to see how things are going to work before "steaming ahead". Dial scales ARE a particular problem- sometimes it's best to leave well enuff alone. Sometimes a paste wax will help, but you gotta be careful. I think yr Hammarlund will look GLORIOUS after you get the gunk off it, though. -Sandy G.
Just resized the photo's...
Sorry about that! They're a little better sized now.
Hey Sandy, I still owe you pics of the infamous eBay/Vancouver police 180A! I'll see if I can take some later today.
Clay
Sorry about that! They're a little better sized now.
Hey Sandy, I still owe you pics of the infamous eBay/Vancouver police 180A! I'll see if I can take some later today.
Clay
Hey thanks for the response and suggestions guys. Fisherdude, that's a nice before and after cleaning job. I got one radio right now that was owned by a smoker and would like to take the smell out of it. Is there a spray can I could use to help remove the odor? Thanks again and all suggestions are much appreciated.
HenTer
HenTer
After you clean it 90% of the smell will be gone right away, and the rest will fade out within a week or two.
The good news is that very little of the smell gets inside, unless you have something with a fan.
The only problem might be if you have a cloth speaker grill. This will need to be carefully cleaned, like at a dry cleaner. If you want to try doing it yourself, use cold water, just a little mild detergent, and rinse carefully and gently without any squeezing or wringing or twisting of the cloth.
Lay if flat on a towel and let it dry.
What are you cleaning?
Clay
The good news is that very little of the smell gets inside, unless you have something with a fan.
The only problem might be if you have a cloth speaker grill. This will need to be carefully cleaned, like at a dry cleaner. If you want to try doing it yourself, use cold water, just a little mild detergent, and rinse carefully and gently without any squeezing or wringing or twisting of the cloth.
Lay if flat on a towel and let it dry.
What are you cleaning?
Clay
Patience ... Patience ... Patience ...
Thanks, Clay for the great insight ...
It's somewhat comforting to know that I am not the only one who has had some of those painful "learning experiences"
...
I can confrim that ... just last night I accidentially got some 409 on the bakelite cabinet of a very rare twin spindle Zenith 45 phono/radio ... I quickly cleaned it with Goo Gone ... which helped, but I can still see a little of the spray marks. ...
Where do you get Stainless Steel Magic? ...
What's an example of a contact cleaner?
Your "after" pictures show that you obviously know of what you speak
... what does that piece of equipment do? ...
Thanks, Clay for the great insight ...
It's somewhat comforting to know that I am not the only one who has had some of those painful "learning experiences"
... I can confrim that ... just last night I accidentially got some 409 on the bakelite cabinet of a very rare twin spindle Zenith 45 phono/radio ... I quickly cleaned it with Goo Gone ... which helped, but I can still see a little of the spray marks.
... Where do you get Stainless Steel Magic? ...
What's an example of a contact cleaner?
Your "after" pictures show that you obviously know of what you speak
... what does that piece of equipment do? ...
The Stainless Steel Magic is a spray foam cleaner that is intended for stainless steel appliances, sinks, etc. I get it at a local hardware superstore in the cleaning supplies area, but I assume you could find it at many supermarkets.
Contact cleaners are spray liquids designed to remove old residue, dust, build-up of greasy films, oxidation, corrosion, etc., from potentiometers, switches, and other electronic components. It is quite common for old radios, audio equipment, etc., to function quite poorly simply due to high resistance and/or poor conductivity from dirty controls. The brands most frequently discussed are DeoxIt, available from Antique Electronic Supply, and Radio Shack Contact/Control Cleaner.
From the DeoxIt description: "...leaves a thin (organic) layer that coats and protects the metal...". From the list of contents of the Radio Shack cleaner: "...mineral oil...". These are all fine for volume controls, switches, etc., but not for tuning capacitor fins. That layer will change the capacitance value, and the tuner section will be out of alignment.
The radio in the pictures is a Hammarlund HQ-180 communications (short-wave) receiver from the early 1960's. It covers from the broadcast band through 30 MHz. It was the next to last (the last was the 180A, I have that one, too!) of the top-of-the-line triple-conversion communications receivers from Hammarlund. They also made an amateur band only model, the HQ-170. They were, still are, superb performers with great sounding audio.
Unfortunately, Hammarlund, Hallicrafters, and National, the "Big Three" of shortwave radio companies, were unable to survive the change from tubes to solid state, and all three went bankrupt around 1970.
Along with my collection of vintage Fisher vacuum tube audio gear from the 1960's, these tube receivers are full of, well, magic.
It's a great hobby!
Clay
Contact cleaners are spray liquids designed to remove old residue, dust, build-up of greasy films, oxidation, corrosion, etc., from potentiometers, switches, and other electronic components. It is quite common for old radios, audio equipment, etc., to function quite poorly simply due to high resistance and/or poor conductivity from dirty controls. The brands most frequently discussed are DeoxIt, available from Antique Electronic Supply, and Radio Shack Contact/Control Cleaner.
From the DeoxIt description: "...leaves a thin (organic) layer that coats and protects the metal...". From the list of contents of the Radio Shack cleaner: "...mineral oil...". These are all fine for volume controls, switches, etc., but not for tuning capacitor fins. That layer will change the capacitance value, and the tuner section will be out of alignment.
The radio in the pictures is a Hammarlund HQ-180 communications (short-wave) receiver from the early 1960's. It covers from the broadcast band through 30 MHz. It was the next to last (the last was the 180A, I have that one, too!) of the top-of-the-line triple-conversion communications receivers from Hammarlund. They also made an amateur band only model, the HQ-170. They were, still are, superb performers with great sounding audio.
Unfortunately, Hammarlund, Hallicrafters, and National, the "Big Three" of shortwave radio companies, were unable to survive the change from tubes to solid state, and all three went bankrupt around 1970.
Along with my collection of vintage Fisher vacuum tube audio gear from the 1960's, these tube receivers are full of, well, magic.
It's a great hobby!
Clay
Sandy, you probably don't watch ebay as frequently as I do, since your collection is so extensive 
, so you may have missed two 600's that just sold in the last week.
Both looked very, very nice, and one sold for a BIN of $450, and the other for a BIN of $400, WITH A CABINET!!
You have no idea how close I came, but my wife would have killed me. I really have to start selling some duplicates and ones I don't intend to keep before I jump on another expensive radio. Of course, then I'll have to hope for another "uneducated" seller.
Boy, was I tempted, though!
Clay
, so you may have missed two 600's that just sold in the last week.Both looked very, very nice, and one sold for a BIN of $450, and the other for a BIN of $400, WITH A CABINET!!
You have no idea how close I came, but my wife would have killed me. I really have to start selling some duplicates and ones I don't intend to keep before I jump on another expensive radio. Of course, then I'll have to hope for another "uneducated" seller.
Boy, was I tempted, though!
Clay
Sandy G
Retired Member
Clay- Yeah, I remember those. I'd jumped on either one if I was "in the market" for a SP-600. Right now, I'm watching that SX-73/R-174. They're very rare-prolly go $700-800.- Wonder what my R-389 would go for? I'd swap it for a working CT-100, but nobody wants to. -Sandy G.
Where??
I can't find it. They say the eyes go first...
I can't find it. They say the eyes go first...