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Inside Look of the "DEATH CUBE"

I've seen these in wire recorders, I suspect lack of lube being the problem with them in general. Good advice here in previous posts on reviving the bushings.

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For one thing it is a very high torque motor. So yes not being oiled properly will cause the shaft and bushings to wear causing vibrations and lots rumble. Plus if the motor mount bushing wear out also. More on that next. :D
 
Motor mount 101. :D You can see that these are not your regular ROK mounts. From what I understand these where for the CVS type of turntables only. I did some searching and found out that the two black mounts are the same part# and are still available and in stock. The bad news is the silver one is a custom made one that is not available any longer. Black ones are made out of Aluminum, Silver one is steel. The silver one (you can tell from the picture) is a heavy duty one that is on the torque side of the motor. Luckily after cleaning mine up I found the rubber to be in great shape. No splits or cracks. So after cleaning I gave the rubber a couple of coats of Rubber Renew to keep them moist. Now onto assembly. :yes:
 

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Oh and why do they call these borg death cube motors? I'm not sure I quite get that.

Good question. They seem to have a bad reputation, but it looks like a fairly straight forward design.

OK,…

Mopic5, Mario, of the infamous Wood Glue as Vinyl Cleaner thread has a Presto Recording Corp. Pirouette T18 record player. I do as well. We are both members of LencoHeaven (Presto, and Lenco, via Bogen, are kissing cousins from across the pond).
Mario was working on his, and I was working on mine at about the same time. We both had problematic motors. Mario came up with the nickname, the Borg Death Cube, which caused some chuckling.
I was working on mine at the same time, and had it apart a bunch of times, but kept coming up with a vibrational noise after the motor warmed up. So I'd take it apart, and try different things.
Ultimately, what worked was for me to change the top and bottom bushings, as the top bushing has worn eccentrically from the pressure of the idler wheels.
In taking it apart, so many times, the internal wire insulation had cracked and turned to powder, and because of the silk wrap wires, I was not aware of it.
I went to plug the motor in, and flash,… the wire shorted through the silk wrap, right in my face.
So, I went on line,and reiterated that it was in fact a Death Cube, that tried to explode in my face.

The Borg Death Cube came from lencoheaven, and a couple of frustrated efforts.
 
OK,…

Mopic5, Mario, of the infamous Wood Glue as Vinyl Cleaner thread has a Presto Recording Corp. Pirouette T18 record player. I do as well. We are both members of LencoHeaven (Presto, and Lenco, via Bogen, are kissing cousins from across the pond).
Mario was working on his, and I was working on mine at about the same time. We both had problematic motors. Mario came up with the nickname, the Borg Death Cube, which caused some chuckling.
I was working on mine at the same time, and had it apart a bunch of times, but kept coming up with a vibrational noise after the motor warmed up. So I'd take it apart, and try different things.
Ultimately, what worked was for me to change the top and bottom bushings, as the top bushing has worn eccentrically from the pressure of the idler wheels.
In taking it apart, so many times, the internal wire insulation had cracked and turned to powder, and because of the silk wrap wires, I was not aware of it.
I went to plug the motor in, and flash,… the wire shorted through the silk wrap, right in my face.
So, I went on line,and reiterated that it was in fact a Death Cube, that tried to explode in my face.

The Borg Death Cube came from lencoheaven, and a couple of frustrated efforts.

That would do it. :D
 
Here's the trust pad from the other end of the motor. You can see in the first picture that it is worn and has a good size dimple in it. Luckily it has not been rebuilt before so I can flip the trust pad over and use the other side. Picture #2. :banana:
Can I assume you mean "thrust" pad? As in thrust bearing?
 
Motor is completely rebuilt. When putting together I added shrink tubing to the wires to protect them better. I also added a dap of wheel bearing grease to the thrust plate and to the end of the shaft. Oiled the felt washers and it is done. The only problem was putting the caps on that hold the bushings. I had to use spring clamps to hold it all together so I could bend the tabs back over with a small hammer a screwdriver. I will be starting a new thread to show the restoration of the ROK CVS 12. So stay tuned. THE END :D
 

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Thanks to this thread, I've decided to attempt my first motor rebuild, on a similar Death Cube.

My first stumble is getting the four case bolts undone - they will not budge, either at the bolt head end or at the nut end. I'm presently waiting for some penetrating oil to soak into the nuts, which will hopefully unseize them. If that doesn't work, what is my next option? Heat from a soldering iron?
 
Thanks to this thread, I've decided to attempt my first motor rebuild, on a similar Death Cube.

My first stumble is getting the four case bolts undone - they will not budge, either at the bolt head end or at the nut end. I'm presently waiting for some penetrating oil to soak into the nuts, which will hopefully unseize them. If that doesn't work, what is my next option? Heat from a soldering iron?

Mine where I little tuff getting off as well. I used WD-40 and let it soak in and it worked for me. If not you can heat up the nut. That should work. You can see that they bolted it together then painted it plus being 60yrs old.
 
Mine where I little tuff getting off as well. I used WD-40 and let it soak in and it worked for me. If not you can heat up the nut. That should work. You can see that they bolted it together then painted it plus being 60yrs old.

Thanks, Bob!
 
Don't forget to take pictures of the disassembly. And if you are going to swap the bushings from end to end mark them before you pull them out. I used a small file to put a small notch in the front one. :thmbsp:
 
Don't forget to take pictures of the disassembly. And if you are going to swap the bushings from end to end mark them before you pull them out. I used a small file to put a small notch in the front one. :thmbsp:

Absolutely. There are lots of little parts that need to be accounted for, especially when disassembling the motor from the main chassis. I've taken a bunch of photos, and marked the wires, but I really hope I don't get messed up when I put it back together!
 
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CRAP. I just realized that my Death Cube is different from yours, it has rivets that secure the end covers, not tabs. I am not up to the task of drilling them out. :(

I guess I will have to live with it as is, or bring it to a shop or something.
 
CRAP. I just realized that my Death Cube is different from yours, it has rivets that secure the end covers, not tabs. I am not up to the task of drilling them out. :(

I guess I will have to live with it as is, or bring it to a shop or something.

That sucks. :dammit:
 
What do you think, Bob? Is this something a novice like me should attempt?

I thing you will be fine. just use the smallest drill bit you can just to drill the lib off. Then use some screws and nuts with Loctite. Will the capstan come off? If you can't get that off you won't get to the bushing on that side.
 
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