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Intermittent DC voltage on right channel of Pioneer SA-606

gbolton2008

New Member
Hi All, first time poster long time lurker here...

I've got a Pioneer SA-606 which had, until a couple of weeks ago, been giving great service through a pair of Wharfedale Laser 80s. I went out and forgot to switch off the amp (nothing playing) and I returned to a crackling right speaker and jumping VU meter. I didn't realise at the time, but the bass and mid drivers had clearly been catastrophically blown, as on inspection the cones don't even move any more.

I left it off for a week or two as I had other things to be doing and returned to it this week and found that the fault had apparently spontaneously fixed itself. I had been switching it on for a few seconds periodically to see if this might resolve over the two weeks leading up to this point, and the fault had been present from switch on (so probably not heat related). As I had been meaning to deoxit the pots (bit of a crackle on the balance control) I took the lid and front panel off and gave it a bit of a clean (very dusty) and hooked it up to a pair of Wharfedale E20s (What can I say, I like Wharfedales and I don't have a big budget!). All was well until this morning when all of a sudden the right starts crackling. I turned it off immediately (no sign of any damage to the right speaker thankfully) and started investigating.

According to the multimeter it was intermittently putting out between +3 and -40v to the right output. This evening I tried using some freeze spray on the output transistors to see if that made a difference, and it doesn't appear to change anything. Furthermore, I swapped the 2SB618A and 2SD588A output transistors from the left to the right channel, thinking that would at least indicate if they were the issue, expecting the problem to move to the left channel but no difference.

After finding a post where a resistor in the output stage had gone open circuit and put dc voltage to the output I checked the resistance of the big 5w 0.5ΩK and 0.47ΩK resistors that sit between the output transistor pair's emitters (though the circuit diagram appears to suggest these should both be 0.5Ω?) and these appear fine.

Can anyone suggest a sensible approach to diagnosis on this? I've just turned it on again for a moment now and the fault appears to have disappeared again... :/

Thanks!

Edit to add: This is occurring irrespective of input, volume level, tone control etc.

I've also now found that there is a loud thump at switch on which wasn't there before this issue arose, and it's on both channels - it actually flashes the peak LED. Previously there was a slight thump at switch on/off, the switch off thump is a bit louder now too.
 
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Greetings..
Check for solder joints and any wires harnessed plug ins, wired soldered joints. Age is usually a culprit on solder or cleaning any selector switches, pots sometimes twice. check pcb grounds screws if have them. Have you been running it for a period of time? as some caps can reform.
 
Yes, I've had it for almost exactly a year now and it had been performing flawlessly.

I've taken a look at the printed side of the board and there are no obvious dry joints, and the screws through the board into the case are all clean and tight.

I have had a (careful) poke around moving ribbons and wired joints while it has been exhibiting the issue and nothing appears to alter it, the meter still jumps around with corresponding DC voltage present on the output. This issue started before I cleaned anything.
 
The thump through both outputs on power on/off seems to be a DC spike, with the woofer code pulling in on power off then slowly returning to neutral and the opposite on power off (or possibly the other way around)
 
It has continued to work ok today, I've booked it up to a pair of gale 3030s which are a lot less sensitive than the Es, and it appears that the right channel is a bit 'thin' and overly bright, this is present on aux, tuner and tape inputs and doesn't switch sides when reversing left and right, it's a bit like it's out of phase but it isn't that either. I've switched speakers and cables from left to right and it's present in two sets of speakers with different cables, in different rooms. There is no noticeable distortion whatsoever, just a slight lack of 'oomph' from the right channel - it isn't noticeable (at least not annoyingly so) when listening to the gales, but the horn tweeters of the Es make it too noticeable to be tolerable.
 
Suggest fit a cheap/basic speaker protection circuit. Type "Speaker Protection" in ebay, many to choose from, I've used this one
3-4 times.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-channel-Stereo-Speaker-protection-board-LED-assembled/121317580107
You will need a 12VAC transformer to power it, 100mA/1-2VA is plenty. Maybe USD20-25 all up, cheaper than speakers.

Problem appears intermittent making it difficult to track down. As per @Binkman any dodgy connections be it solder, wire,, could
cause this. Outside chance is a dying transistor. You probably have to wait until it fails permanent.

Suggest run the amp continiously without speakers connected and monitor the voltage at both speaker posts until it fails.
Next step is the long winded voltage measurements, start at the base of the output transistors and work back, ie drivers etc...

A PITA to fix when permanently faulty, almost impossible when intermittent.
 
Greetings..
Check for solder joints and any wires harnessed plug ins, wired soldered joints. Age is usually a culprit on solder or cleaning any selector switches, pots sometimes twice. check pcb grounds screws if have them. Have you been running it for a period of time? as some caps can reform.
Check solder connections to your plus and minus rails connected to the outputs collectors.
 
If D26 SCR is intermittently firing it would intermittently dump your positive rail to ground through R110 and R111 and the result would be wild negative voltages (DC offset) felt at the speaker outs.
 
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If D26 SCR is intermittently firing it would intermittently dump your positive rail to ground through R110 and R111 and the result would be wild negative voltages (DC offset) felt at the speaker outs.
Is R110 and R111 getting hot?


However... that would influence both channels..So... Disregard.....
Plan B..
For now, just check for a stable +/- 40 volts at the collectors of the right channel output transistors Q3 and Q4. On the large heatsink.
 
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If D26 SCR is intermittently firing it would intermittently dump your positive rail to ground and the result would be wild negative voltages (DC offset) felt at the speaker outs.

Absolutely! pull test might show ok but under load can deteriorate when aged. Chased that rabbit a couple days in the P.s. too. had no heat sink. 63v rails, too. It might be.. last post read.
-----------
Avionic! (santa?? What's santa going to bring me for xmess!! You the man!
 
Also, measure for a stable -40vdc at the emitter of Q16. And a stable +40vdc at the emitter of Q17.
 
Absolutely! pull test might show ok but under load can deteriorate when aged. Chased that rabbit a couple days in the P.s. too. had no heat sink. 63v rails, too. It might be.. last post read.
-----------
Avionic! (santa?? What's santa going to bring me for xmess!! You the man!
I thought you were sending me some moonshine for Christmas.
 
Hello. This is my first message on this forum. I have the same problem with my Pioneer SA 606 amplifier. Crackle sound/noise on the right channel. Did anybody find a solution for this? Thanks in advance.
 
Hello. This is my first message on this forum. I have the same problem with my Pioneer SA 606 amplifier. Crackle sound/noise on the right channel. Did anybody find a solution for this? Thanks in advance.

Hello, Welcome to AK.

My first suspect would be the dual transistor 2SC1312, if the noise doesn't change with the volume control. Crackling noises like little explosions or fried bacon usually point to a transistor, and there are just a few transistors between the volume control and the output.

I'd check or replace capacitors C41 C42 too, 22uF 10V

And of course, check all the soldering from board to board, and a good cleaning to all the switches and potentiometers.
 
Hello, Welcome to AK.

My first suspect would be the dual transistor 2SC1312, if the noise doesn't change with the volume control. Crackling noises like little explosions or fried bacon usually point to a transistor, and there are just a few transistors between the volume control and the output.

I'd check or replace capacitors C41 C42 too, 22uF 10V

And of course, check all the soldering from board to board, and a good cleaning to all the switches and potentiometers.
Thank you very much, i will check them out. I hope i won't have to build the whole amplifier from the scratch lol
 
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Hello, Welcome to AK.

My first suspect would be the dual transistor 2SC1312, if the noise doesn't change with the volume control. Crackling noises like little explosions or fried bacon usually point to a transistor, and there are just a few transistors between the volume control and the output.

I'd check or replace capacitors C41 C42 too, 22uF 10V

And of course, check all the soldering from board to board, and a good cleaning to all the switches and potentiometers.
I swapped the transistors and the capacitors you pointed out but it didn't change, still the same problem on the right channel, any other suggestions?
 
I'd get a can of freeze spray and start freezing the transistors in that channel. Make sure all the switches, selectors and potentiometers are clean .
 
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