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Is the Infinity polydome replaceable with any IMG midrange?

He should not need to damage them in order to check them.
I hope not, ill update on what happens
I tried the Midwest again just for peace of mind and yea they are... not good.
I hope their foam kits are as good as this midrange driver.. (i have their foam kits for future repairs).
 
You could ask your refoamer what method they used to center the voice coil when installing on the magnets. If they just did it by feel, then there's an excellent chance that's the reason that the output is sub-par. You really need to center it using an audio signal (although I'm not sure what frequency would be appropriate for a midrange; probably something in its lower frequency range).
 
You really need to center it using an audio signal (although I'm not sure what frequency would be appropriate for a midrange; probably something in its lower frequency range).
Needs to be swept through the entire midrange starting around 400Hz through 4-4.5KHz to thoroughly check. Quite often need to also check at 200Hz in order to detect rub on the polydomes.
 
@BSEYE I got the same experience, wish I've saw your post before I order and replaced my polydomes. Exactly near 10db drop in 700hz-2500hz with those domes from germany. I am very interested how you solved your problem or what happened ?
 
@BSEYE I got the same experience, wish I've saw your post before I order and replaced my polydomes. Exactly near 10db drop in 700hz-2500hz with those domes from germany. I am very interested how you solved your problem or what happened ?
Hello there, nothing happened, theyre sitting in storage while I enjoy my 3 other Infinity's with cone midranges. Ive spent a lot trying to fix this speaker and i think its not worth spending anymore, until someone comes along with a proper, reliable and tested fix, might be never.
 
I'm very sad to read that, did you try to recenter with audio signal as suggested earlier ? Cuz I put mine myself and did not center them that way and I am so desperate to try it out.
 
No honestly i didnt, i gave it back to my refoamer to check out, he fixed the distortiom but still sounds less in volume compared to other drivers, and the midwest mids sound even worse
 
Well, I've been trying hard to find out whats wrong here and I finally did. Well Actually @seifreit did, I just had to re-read every post everywhere couple if times, dunno why I missed his comment, but I finally noticed it and gave his solution a try. Here is what he said:

The most likely cause of the lower than expected output is the voice coil is not properly located in the magnet gap. If these are based on the same soft dome that I've been able to get here in the US., the shape of the dome material is slightly less convex than the originals and is dropping the voice coil down too far into the gap. A shim is required between the magnet frame and the plastic ring the dome is glued to. This will lift the voice coil up into the correct position.

The distortion is likely due to the voice coild not being centered properly and rubbing on the magnet or the pole piece.
This is exactly the issue! I've raised with a millimeter with a simple cardboard, the funny part is that I even used the cardboard from the domes package case and it worked. They suddenly gained something like ~6-8db and I did not even glue the dome, just pressed it with the cover plastic plate.
 
Well, I've been trying hard to find out whats wrong here and I finally did. Well Actually @seifreit did, I just had to re-read every post everywhere couple if times, dunno why I missed his comment, but I finally noticed it and gave his solution a try. Here is what he said:


This is exactly the issue! I've raised with a millimeter with a simple cardboard, the funny part is that I even used the cardboard from the domes package case and it worked. They suddenly gained something like ~6-8db and I did not even glue the dome, just pressed it with the cover plastic plate.
I sadly and honestly have no experience with any practical woofer work so I have no idea how to even visualize what you mean, I will try to fiddle around with the polydome while something is playing to try and troubleshoot.

Do you think they sound acceptable after the fix?
 
Well, I did not even glue the dome yet, I will disassemble it now and apply glue. But played few songs on just single speaker and seems more than acceptable. I also ran a dirac so I can see what the frequency response look like and it was pretty much promising. But later when I apply the fix to both of the speakers pass some time for the glue to kick in will make a better comment on that part.
About what I actually did is to cut cardboard 1mm thin in the form of a bagel, just to cover where the dome is glued to the plastic, this rises the entire dome forward and does the magic.

P.S. I am sure if you show my comment to your refoamer he will know what to do. Also this might be better to be 3d printed instead of using cardboard, but I cant wait for that.
 
Its good that you have the L-pads for any inconsistencies between the two midranges, excited to hear once theres development, maybe a few pictures too if you can to help guide me through the process.
 
did you manage long term success with your kappas with these polydome replacements?
I do not have those. I used to have several different pairs of Kappa speakers, but I sold them all except one pair of Kappa 8s, which have the RSDS polydomes.
 
I sadly and honestly have no experience with any practical woofer work so I have no idea how to even visualize what you mean, I will try to fiddle around with the polydome while something is playing to try and troubleshoot.

Do you think they sound acceptable after the fix?

Well, seems that my guide for doing this is wrong, so I am deleting this and gonna do it again.

deleted guide.
 
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If the Millersound option is not available, then I would certainly try another Infinity midrange.

When I did my RS 7 Kappa speakers, I tried repairing the original midranges, but to no avail. These are difficult to do, and I am no stranger to repairing speaker drivers. In the end, I went with a pair of HiVi 2" fabric domes, Parts Express part #297-716. I was very happy with the sound, and my work colleague that I sold them to is very happy with them as well. What is useful about these is there is no cutting of the cabinets in order to get them to fit. Some new screw holes maybe, but if you ever find a set of the original midranges, you can easily swap them back in.
 
If the Millersound option is not available, then I would certainly try another Infinity midrange.

When I did my RS 7 Kappa speakers, I tried repairing the original midranges, but to no avail. These are difficult to do, and I am no stranger to repairing speaker drivers. In the end, I went with a pair of HiVi 2" fabric domes, Parts Express part #297-716. I was very happy with the sound, and my work colleague that I sold them to is very happy with them as well. What is useful about these is there is no cutting of the cabinets in order to get them to fit. Some new screw holes maybe, but if you ever find a set of the original midranges, you can easily swap them back in.
Yes, I am from Europe and we dont have the Millersound option here. And to be honest I dont think we are that much behind with this fix.
I saw your threat for Kappa 7, the Hivi fits in yours, but wont fit in mine, there will be 2mm of gap, which is a big NO for me. Also looks very different and I can bet they sound very different, it might not be bad, but it sure must be far from whats supposed to be. There are people that dont mind that, but I sure do.
 
2) Now when we have that almost perfect fitting bracelet we have to cut it with wire cutters, to create 2 pieces, that way we can create space for the voice coil wires. There is a canal for them, use it as fitting point and glue the pieces there.

The ring needs to be on the opposite side of the black plastic diaphragm plate to act as a spacer between the complete diaphragm assembly and the magnet assembly. This allows it to be easily positioned during final assembly. The dome needs to be attached to the plastic plate as was done from the factory. This also negates the need to cut the spacer in half to allow the coil wires to pass through
 
@seifreit Ahh, that totally changes everything. I never thought of that, the alignment of the dome will be much easier, but now I have to align that bottom part too, because when I add 1mm spacer, the fittings there won't reach one another, but its still doable. And it might be even easier, because the bolts will fit them where they must be. What do you think is 1mm enough, how much did you add ?
 
@seifreit Ahh, that totally changes everything. I never thought of that, the alignment of the dome will be much easier, but now I have to align that bottom part too, because when I add 1mm spacer, the fittings there won't reach one another, but its still doable. And it might be even easier, because the bolts will fit them where they must be. What do you think is 1mm enough, how much did you add ?
Typical spacer/shim thickness I use is 0.060", not sure what that equates to in mm.
 
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