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Isolation platform

Olecranon

Active Member
I'm looking at making a cheap isolation platform for my turntable and looking for some opinions on materials.

For the platform my thought was to use an appropriate size cutting board. The rega RP1 dimensions are 17.5 x 15" so I would get something at least that size.

Material - Wood, granite, acrylic ?

The other question is what to use as the absorption material. I had read an interesting article where a person used an oversize silica gel filled hot/cold pack. He then placed the platform on that. Of course I could use a number of vibrapods as well.

Any opinions? :)
 
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There's of course tons of stuff out there, many companies, anything from Butcher Block, to Vibraplanes, SRA Iso Bases, Cones, etc etc etc, from a few centavos, up to $1,000's of dollars. Your pick?

Butcher Block is pretty, but also can be pretty costly as well.

MDF is a cheap material, easily gotten, for what it is, it is basically sonically "dead", one reason why many speaker manufacturer's use it.

Places like Home Depot-Lowes usually carry small 2'x4' sheets of the stuff, possibly in thicknesses up to 3/4". They'll usually even cut it for free if the cuts aren't complex.

As for good sound deadening materials on the cheap, somebody like Herbies Labs (yes I believe Herbies "Steve Herbelin" is a sponsor here)

Herbies makes many good possible materials that could be used, dependent upon weight, and the type of material he might suggest" Iso Cups/Balls, DB neutralizer Dots, Grungebuster Discs, Tenderfeet, Big Fat Dots, etc etc.

If you're wishing isolation from Speakers, then also consider putting something under them, like Herbies Big Fat Dots, or such.

With these products, one could perhaps make a "sandwiched" Base, consisting of a combination of MDF Sheeting, and Herbies' goodies in between, and beneath?

Hope these brain farts help,
Mark
 
Thanks for the ideas. I didn't know that Herbies had all those different products. I thought they just sold turntable mats.

I'm sure some of the vibration is coming from my speakers. I'm using a pair a Klipsch Chorus II's, Vandersteen subwoofer, and my room has laminate flooring.

Thanks for the ideas
 
DIY WALL SHELF, large brackets, MDF board per MarkD51, cost around $40 from hardware store or home center. Screw into wall studs, end of turntable vibration.
 
I'm currently using many of Herbies products on my Turntable, and under it.
I'll explain further.

My current Turntable is the VPI HW-19 which looks stock, but has many modifications.
It sports a custom 1.00" thick Black Acrylic Plinth that sits within the Wooden Base, Under the Plinth is the VPI Steel Subchassis Sheet, the Mk-IV Platter at 16 lbs, I estimate the total weight of Plinth and Platter to total in at about 35-45 lbs or more. (Never actually weighed such)

The entire Turntable I estimate probably exceeds 65 lbs.

The stock Sorbothane Pucks that this Plinth once sat on were replaced with 4 Tall Firm Herbies Tenderfeet, sitting inverted with the small pyramidal shape facing up. Within the four recesses that were for the original Sorbo suspension, and what the Tenderfeet sit on, are four Herbies 44mm Grungebuster standard thickness discs. The Tenderfeet sit on top of these Discs at each corner of the Wooden Base.

My Audiopoint Brass Cone Feet, which are a screw in affair at the bottom of the Wooden Table Base sit on Audiopoint Brass Coupling Discs, and under each of these Discs is a 1.00" dia Herbies Grungebuster Disc.

My Table does incorporate the VPI SAMA, which is the "Stand Alone Motor Assembly", a Hurst AC Drive Motor within a 10 lb Steel Case. The Stock Rubber Feet supplied with the SAMA were so wimpy, and poor, My SAMA would not even stay properly positioned under the Table, and thus proper Drive Belt Tension could not even be achieved.

Off came the four little rubber Feet, simply they are unscrewed from the Bottom of the SAMA, and they were also replaced with four standard softness-standard height Herbies Tenderfeet. Problem solved, the SAMA sits rock solid in place, and the Tenderfeet is a superior material versus Rubber, or Sorbothane.

The stock Rubber Spindle Washer on my Platter was replaced with a Herbies Grungebuster Washer specifically designed-sized to replace the cheapo rubber washer that VPI commonly supplies with such Platters.

And lastly, my entire Turntable sits on a SRA Iso Base Version 3.0. This is some sort of high tech Isolation Base that is/was specifically designed for the HW-19 MK-IV Table. SRA supposedly makes Isolation Bases for the Military, used in Nuclear Submarines for sensitive equipment.

Cost of the Iso Base new was $600. But it helped very little it seemed until I "Herbie-ized" that too. Under each of its Spike Cone Feet, I installed a Herbies thick Brass Coupling Disc, and under those went a Herbies Grungebuster Washer-Disc. Only then, and for the first time, did the SRA Iso Base seem to do what it was designed to do, lessen vibration, and transference from my Speakers, and Subwoofer, which are a pair of JBL 4430 Studio Monitors (15" two way at 132 lbs each) and my Sunfire True Sub Mk-IV Subwoofer. (this little 50lb puppy can go as low as 16hz)

Overall, I can say the Herbies products were worth their weight in gold, the addition of all the goodies seemed to bring a greater deal of neutrality to my Table, which I'm using a Audioquest PT-9 Tonearm with an older AQ Emerald Solid Silver Tonearm Cable on a Custom Machined Arm Base and a ZYX Airy 3X low output MC Cartridge. The Phono stage I'm currently using is the Sutherland PhD, which is battery powered.


The entire affair simply sounds fantastic, and I believe the Herbies goodies did help bring this basically simple turntable into a realm of Tables costing much much more money.

I'm a totally satisfied customer of Herbies products, and have found they do what he claims they will do, offer isolation at no cost to hampering, or altering sound, that they remain neutral, not like Sorbothane, which many seem to find hamper, and influence sonics in a negative way.
Mark
 
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I have one made from Granite, and have another made from maple. 2 different materials, 2 different approaches. I can't really tell them apart, but there are different tables on each, so, there you go.
 
I have one made from Granite, and have another made from maple. 2 different materials, 2 different approaches. I can't really tell them apart, but there are different tables on each, so, there you go.

About 8 years ago, I went up to Belen NM for a job interview (which did not work out) but anyway, I spotted a big quarry and stone business up there.

Holey moley, after taking a showroom tour, the boss took me through the plant, showed me what they do, and I was blown away by the sophistication of stone cutting.

What they largely dealt with was Travertine, mined just 15-20 miles west from their business. Large monster trucks coming in with rock and boulders the size of large cars.

The Travertine, and the variety of colors and hues were really something to see, and what they can do with Travertine. It can be cut to almost any size-thickness imagineable, milled, filled, polished, coated, backed, etc.

It takes on a look of a drop dead beautiful marble, and the rose colored Travertine was just breathtaking.

I almost placed an order right then and there, for two pieces of the Rose Colored, one for the Turntable, and one sheet for my CD Transport/DAC to match.

Told the man that I'd sleep on what I would do, and in a way sadly never did it.
The cost wasn't that bad either when I gave him some rough specs, wishing 3" thick slabs filled, any finished.
Mark
 
I'm looking at making a cheap isolation platform for my turntable and looking for some opinions on materials.

For the platform my thought was to use an appropriate size cutting board. The rega RP1 dimensions are 17.5 x 15" so I would get something at least that size.

Material - Wood, granite, acrylic ?

The other question is what to use as the absorption material. I had read an interesting article where a person used an oversize silica gel filled hot/cold pack. He then placed the platform on that. Of course I could use a number of vibrapods as well.

Any opinions? :)

Rega has long recommended a level, rigid, and lightweight platform, avoiding hollow or heavy furniture cabinets/furniture. The local Rega dealers have told me that the same type of support that's best for Linn turntables (which I've owned) is also well-suited for Rega. What follows is an excerpt from a post made a few years ago, but may have some ideas to consider.

Below is the relevant section from the Linn set-up manual. The isolation board I have from Custom Woodwork and Design does not match the description given, but is a thin plywood sheet (1/2 inch maybe) with a wood trim that makes the thing appear 3/4 inch thick. At the four corners are thin metal feet, kind of like screws in metal sleeves running through the plywood sheet with access to the "screw" heads from the top for leveling with an Allen wrench. The whole thing stands under an inch tall. From the description below, I'm thinking that anything light, rigid and level will serve the purpose.

POSITIONING THE TURNTABLE

A turntable's performance can be substantially degraded by improper placement. The folk wisdom has been that a turntable should be placed on a very massive object to isolate it from vibrations, perhaps extending even to a massive isolation base with a compliant coupling below it. THIS IS ABSOLUTELY THE WRONG THING TO DO! A turntable should be placed on a light but firm object, such as a rigid, light coffee table or parson's table. Equipment cabinets loaded with amplifiers and records are far too massive.

The difference that can be obtained by placing the turntable on a light object is startling. It improves every aspect of the sound. There is no advantage, whatsoever, to placing a turntable on a massive object or isolation base. The misconception being that massive objects isolate a turntable from large amplitude vibrations due to their inertia. Although these objects move very small amounts in response to the energy that strikes them, they move at very, very low frequencies, well below the cut-off point of the suspension of any turntable. The result is that you directly couple the turntable to all manner of environmental noise, i.e. traffic outside and footfalls. Light objects do not resonate at these frequencies, and do not couple the turntable at these frequencies. Isolation bases with additional suspensions should be avoided. The additional suspension interacts with the suspension of the turntable, (when one moves, it induces a movement in the other suspension, which moves the first etc.) and the whole thing becomes unstable and begins to oscillate. For the same reason, flimsy, shaky surfaces should be avoided.

The appropriate surface is a rigid, light table. You can use a wall shelf, but it should be light (plywood, not particle board), and it should not be attached to the brackets that support it. Allowing it simply to sit on the brackets decouples it from the huge mass of the wall.

If you must set the turntable on a heavy equipment cabinet, it is possible to build a small light platform with feet about 3 to 4 inches tall to isolate the turntable. This "mini" coffee table on the cabinet works almost as well as a light table on the floor. You must, however, make sure that the equipment cabinet itself is very stable and can not rock back and forth. This usually means that you must either have the cabinet seated firmly on the floor (not on carpet), or braced against the wall.
 
Three easy to make DIY isolation platforms that work great for turnables:

  1. Maple butcher block - Dense wood such as maple is very effective at damping vibrational energy. You need at least a 2" thick piece, and 3-4" is best. However, a single large piece of maple of that size can get pricey. However, a 3-4" thick maple butcher block is reasonably affordable and works quite well. Go to Audiogon and do a search for Michigan Maple; there are usually a couple of listings from seller Dawnsplatforms for butcher blocks in differing sizes active at any given time. Dawnsplatforms is a great seller, and if you don't find the the size and/or thickness you want, contact them and ask. I have one of their 3" butcher blocks under my VPI Classic; it looks nice and works well.
  2. Sand box - Basically an open box filled with 3-4" of sand, with a thin wood platform on top on which to place the 'table. Sand is excellent for absorbing airborne vibrations as well as draining vibrations from an electronic component. I use a sand box under my VPI HW-19 Mk IV. Here's a couple of links to some DIY sand box projects: Wardsweb Sandbox (a long-time AKer), DIY Sandbox
  3. Air bladder - this can take the form of 1-3 small diameter bicycle inner tubes with a thin board on top, or 4-6 racquet balls either directly under the 'table or supporting a thin board. Build a lower box similar to the DIY sand box to house the air suspension parts and you have an attractive air bladder isolation platform. There are also a number of commercially available models from companies such as Townshend Audio and Bright Star Audio. I have a Bright Star Audio Air Mass 19 under my VPI Aries I 'table. It uses 3 small air bladders in a triangle configuration, which allows you to level the 'table by varying the air pressure in each bladder.
I am not a fan at all of marble or granite for isolation platforms. I know these materials are dense so they do get some good marks for mass loading (but so is iron and steel), but they do transmit vibration energy rather efficiently (nearly as well as glass) which in my book makes them a poor choice for isolation.

And I will agree with Markd51 about Herbie's Audio Lab. I have some of their products scattered throughout my systems. Affordable, very effective, and they look nice, too.
 
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