To active biamp you will need 4 channels of amplification. can be 2 stereo amps, 4 mono amps, a combination, a HT amp with 4 or more channels. Going triamp will require 6 amplifier channels, far less common.
JBL 4343 monitors, pair, MN
- Thread starter alteclipsch
- Start date
Sorry for the delay..... The model number is 5234 and the installed cards are labeled 4340.
Ok, I do have the amplification covered then. I'm guessing I would need to bypass the factory X'er and connect to each driver set. Example 15 and 10 as a set and the horns as the other? I'm a little confused on how this network will divide between each individual driver in this configuration?
Biamping a 3-way typically is done by disconnecting the LF/woofer from the network, and driving directly from the LF amp which is driven through a low-pass after the preamp. The Mid & high drivers are then left connected to the crossover, and you can drive them from the normal input to the speaker, although this still controls the high-pass into these speakers so you can’t play with slope and frequency, the HF amp then is driven from the preamp through a high-pass filter.
Some speakers have jumper strips that connect HF and LF posts, this is much easier because you just remove the jumpers. The crossovers then remain in place and you drive them the same as above, without control of the crossover frequency nor slope, which are probably already pretty good if the speakers are good. With this setup you can use the high-pass and low-pass before the amplifiers, but in many cases, especially direct-coupled solid-state amplifiers you can get away with just using two outputs from the preamp (or Y-adapters) to drive both HF and LF amplifiers full-range and letting the speaker crossovers do the rest. Many will criticize this method as not being as good, but it is simply an easier-simpler method for biamping. Also with this method there are those who are concerned about using tube amplifiers where some of the output will be seen by the amp as an un-terminated output and cause damage. I don’t agree, as the amplifier will still have a load to damp oscillations etc., so it can’t really go into runaway. My opinion is that it won’t cause any harm to the amplifier, even though in theory it isn’t optimum and could have an audible effect, ... I know of nobody who has heard any such effect though so I can’t say for sure.
Anyway, a lot of ways to do this, and I believe there are much more complete threads on the subject. A lot of opinions also, but experimenting is a lot of fun so just enjoy.
Some speakers have jumper strips that connect HF and LF posts, this is much easier because you just remove the jumpers. The crossovers then remain in place and you drive them the same as above, without control of the crossover frequency nor slope, which are probably already pretty good if the speakers are good. With this setup you can use the high-pass and low-pass before the amplifiers, but in many cases, especially direct-coupled solid-state amplifiers you can get away with just using two outputs from the preamp (or Y-adapters) to drive both HF and LF amplifiers full-range and letting the speaker crossovers do the rest. Many will criticize this method as not being as good, but it is simply an easier-simpler method for biamping. Also with this method there are those who are concerned about using tube amplifiers where some of the output will be seen by the amp as an un-terminated output and cause damage. I don’t agree, as the amplifier will still have a load to damp oscillations etc., so it can’t really go into runaway. My opinion is that it won’t cause any harm to the amplifier, even though in theory it isn’t optimum and could have an audible effect, ... I know of nobody who has heard any such effect though so I can’t say for sure.
Anyway, a lot of ways to do this, and I believe there are much more complete threads on the subject. A lot of opinions also, but experimenting is a lot of fun so just enjoy.
